ZR1 LS9 swap

[88notchback]

Afternoon guys. I purchased a wrecked 2011 ZR1 to swap into my 1970 c10. Motor made 800hp to the tire before a low mph crash. My truck is basically stock with manual valve airride, front disc coneverion, 5 lug swap and power brakes. The trans I have is a tko600 unit from American powertrain.

I plan to try and use the zr1s aftermarket clutch, with a aftermarket hydraulic setup. There a few things I have questions on.

Frame stiffener, would you use one or build one. Porterbuilt?? Those that have purchased was it worth it?

4 link or stay ladderbar?

Would you use 2 piece driveshaft or stay with a single?

What other suspension mods would you reccommend. I wrench and fab most anything.

[Captainfab]

At that power level I would stiffen the frame you have the means and the time, You could build it yourself. If you don't have a lot of 'spare time' then the porterbuilt unit looks to be a good piece as is all of their products.

I would stay with the trailing arms if that is what you have.

If your truck is a longbed and has the HD 2 piece driveshaft and carrier bearing, I would stay with that.

[88notchback]

Thanks. The truck is a shortbed, I was unsure of with the airride it would need a 2 piece shaft. I'm new to the C10 and airride so learning.

I would typically build my own parts, but the porterbuilt has the ladder bar adjustments and geometry figured out, so I'm leaning that way. I was thinking of boxing the frame from stiffer back and adding a watts link and anti roll bars front and back. I was also thinking about going with PB front IRS kit to get a better front geometry and rack n pinion. Is this the best route or is there a better option than porterbuilt? I do have alot of fab equipment so some of the things I plan to build myself.

[mongocanfly]

Swb I would go with a 1pc d-shaft...but that's me...but the Camaro I pulled my ls3 from had a 2pc shaft about 4ft long....go figure....PB does make some very nice stuff...nothing wrong with fabbing your own stuff either though...
Really nice 70 ya got...

[88notchback]

Thank you. When I get some time I'll post some build pictures. Right now it currently has a blown head gasket ole 350. I got a l83 vortec crate motor for it but ended up with the ZR1 so I didnt put the l83 in yet. I'll be posting it for sale soon to offset some of this swap cost.

[Captainfab]

In a shortbed a 1pc driveshaft will be just fine as long as it is of the correct diameter and wall thickness.

[88notchback]

Does Porterbuilt sell a frame stiffner that you can use a 1 piece driveshaft? It doesnt give me that option on the website.

[Captainfab]

That I do not know. You might send them an email or give them a call on Monday and ask them about that.

[Madkidd007]

Let’s ask the important questions here, are you just wanting a badass hot rod, trying to autocross, want to be able to launch it with sticky tires? Everything plays a role as if you don’t ever plan on the tires really hooking then frame stiffness is kind of irrelevant. Now if you want to plant it in a curve and come out under full throttle that’s a different story. On the driveshaft id personally stay 2 piece with the airride. Also I could be wrong but I believe late models have 2 piece shafts to help with vibration at high speeds and requires less driveshaft strength vs a single stronger and heavier shaft.

[88notchback]

Madkidd007, Good point. I'm wanting to basically do it all with the truck. I'm not stuck in any certain typical hobby, but want it to handle alot better than it does as well as hook better too. The 50year old suspension wasn't designed for any of that.

I'm currently looking into going with a chopping block frame on air, but not the slammed version. Setting the truck up with this wont be that more exspensive than if I was piecing the IFS and rear section up to handle the power with frame stiffner and most important the stopping power. Alot of details to work out but being new to most this, but I'm learning alot from the site.

[Madkidd007]

Originally Posted by 88notchback

Madkidd007, Good point. I'm wanting to basically do it all with the truck. I'm not stuck in any certain typical hobby, but want it to handle alot better than it does as well as hook better too. The 50year old suspension wasn't designed for any of that.

I'm currently looking into going with a chopping block frame on air, but not the slammed version. Setting the truck up with this wont be that more exspensive than if I was piecing the IFS and rear section up to handle the power with frame stiffner and most important the stopping power. Alot of details to work out but being new to most this, but I'm learning alot from the site.

Well if you’re not wanting a “truck”, but a beast of a street machine a new chassis sounds ideal. Basically to do the drivetrain justice with proper handling to match I think it’s your only choice. I’m a bit different as I’d just want a good stance and decent handling as I like to let the back end come out too much

[1970 CST Short Wide]

See Capt Fab about Hydraulic Clutch set up. His works Perfect

[Captainfab]

Thank you for the recommend

Originally Posted by 1970 CST Short Wide

See Capt Fab about Hydraulic Clutch set up. His works Perfect

[1970 CST Short Wide]

Originally Posted by Captainfab

Thank you for the recommend

Both my Son and I have your setup for Hydraulic Clutch in our trucks.
Easy install and works flawlessly
Thank You

[88notchback]

Captainfab, what dies your kit include?

My biggest thought is which slave cylinder to use with the tko600 and how to make it work. I havnt pulled it apart yet to look at geometry of the unit.

[Captainfab]

With the TKO600 most of my customers use a hydraulic release bearing. Here is the for sale thread for the '67-'72 booster bracket with hydraulic clutch conversion.

http://www.67-72chevytrucks.com/vboa...d.php?t=652871

Originally Posted by 88notchback

Captainfab, what dies your kit include?

My biggest thought is which slave cylinder to use with the tko600 and how to make it work. I havnt pulled it apart yet to look at geometry of the unit.