Firewall insulation pad fasteners

[Chevystep]

Anyone used something besides the hard plastic push in fasteners that come with the insulation repops? These things seem physically too small and hard to work...Has anyone used just the plastic finned newer type that holds on late model door panels and such with any success?

[BOE]

the kind you have pictured worked for me. mine have a head about 1 1/2- 2 inches wide you just need the hole the right diameter.

[The Rocknrod]

You could use the tool also to make installation easier.

[Chevystep]

I actually made a similar tool with a better handle, but these hard plastic push fasteners are just heck to push in. Might see if McMaster Carr has a more flexible trim fastener with that same diameter.....or just use a couple 3/4" fender washers and a 3/16" round head bolt....

[Llay R. Rac]

like many other plastic and rubber parts, they always seem to go in easier when they are warm. i put mine in the sun for an hour , also a little soap or lubricant helps.

[racecougar]

SS hardware: 5/16" buttonheads, rubber-bonded washers on the firewall side, fenderwashers on the insulation side, and nylon-insert locknuts.

[northern 85]

Nice job racecougar

[65chevysub]

Is there a thread on here on how to install a firewall pad?
I will also check Youtube
Thanks

[Chevystep]

Originally Posted by 65chevysub

Is there a thread on here on how to install a firewall pad?
I will also check Youtube
Thanks

If you find one, turn down the sound, the language should be pretty colorful....I wonder if the Brothers rubber faced ones are easier than the standard cardboard ones...and are they for a 66?

[rideblue00]

They are super hard plastic. i warmed mine also to no avail. I even bent the firewall, before warming them anyway. Troubles even when using the tool.

[fredhlynch2]

I welded up all the holes (firewall) for the pad and used double stick Velcro to attach. Worked like a charm. The Velcro also provided more surface area to hold the firewall pad.

Not really an answer to this question, but it is a solution.

[gwsut]

I, too, have been struggling with this issue of the trying to use the reproduction firewall pad rivets to hold the firewall pad in place. The rivets the industry sell as a replacement is way too hard to be inserted in the hole of the firewall. I bought the special special tool, used silicon and oil lubricant, heated the rivet in boiling water (which didn't do a thing) all to no avail. I even took a section of scrape firewall and drilled a hole in it the same size as a stock firewall hole and pounded the p*** out of the rivet without satisfactory results. I think racecougar has the best idea and that's what I am going to use. HATS OFF TO RACECOUGAR!!!

[Railroader]

I used the HARD plastic ones on my truck and had to go down to the alter at church the following Sunday and ask for forgiveness for my thoughts on who came with and manufactured the "devil" fasteners. I'm currently restoring a car and I'm going to try the velcro suggestion as I don't want any holes in my firewall.

That's what's good about this site. Great Suggestions ! ! !

[bigmoe]

Originally Posted by racecougar

SS hardware: 5/16" buttonheads, rubber-bonded washers on the firewall side, fenderwashers on the insulation side, and nylon-insert locknuts.

Racecougar that’s a great idea. do you remember how long those bolts you used are? I’m going to order some now.

[rideblue00]

I still have yet finsh this job. Sounds like the screws are the way to go.

[jbgroby]

it helps to put a bit of grease on them as well.

[rideblue00]

I tried it all at the time

[slorio]

A bit late to respond, but I like to use what are called "Well Nuts" for this type of fastening. They are available in multiple lengths and diameters. You push them into the hole on the panel and firewall and then insert a threaded bolt into the center. As you tighten the bolt the rubber flairs out similar to a rivet. If you need to remove, you unscrew the bolt and pull the well nut back through the panel. I have found assortments of these at hardware stores pretty readily.

Hope that helps.
Regards,
Steve

[Chevystep]

I finally cut off a pretty good old screwdriver that had a round blade diameter that fit inside the plastic fasteners to push them in, the flat part of the fasteners rides right up against the screwdriver handle to give good pushing leverage. Then I slit the end of the fastener with a thin hacksaw blade to give it a little “compressibility” (?). They slipped right in with a little force and still had enough wedge to stay there....

[racecougar]

Originally Posted by northern 85

Nice job racecougar

Originally Posted by gwsut

I, too, have been struggling with this issue of the trying to use the reproduction firewall pad rivets to hold the firewall pad in place. The rivets the industry sell as a replacement is way too hard to be inserted in the hole of the firewall. I bought the special special tool, used silicon and oil lubricant, heated the rivet in boiling water (which didn't do a thing) all to no avail. I even took a section of scrape firewall and drilled a hole in it the same size as a stock firewall hole and pounded the p*** out of the rivet without satisfactory results. I think racecougar has the best idea and that's what I am going to use. HATS OFF TO RACECOUGAR!!!

Originally Posted by rideblue00

I still have yet finsh this job. Sounds like the screws are the way to go.

Thanks guys.

Originally Posted by bigmoe

Racecougar that’s a great idea. do you remember how long those bolts you used are? I’m going to order some now.

I don't, but I'd guess 1".

[ardarvin]

Use a dremel to put a slit all the way up one side. Even that is tight. For some I used two slits.

Use an installation tool which doesn't go all the way in, and/or small enough diameter to allow fastener to compress.

Heating with a gun or even boiling makes no difference on these.