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#1 |
Registered User
Join Date: May 2018
Location: Prattville, AL
Posts: 611
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Door gap question
Ok, I have researched board threads and found that the factory door gap should be 3/16" +/- 1/8". I hung my door so that I could put in the new rocker panel and found that the best gap I could get was 5/16" on the rear of the door to B pillar. If I try to narrow the gap the door binds up on the striker on the pillar. What am I missing here? Do I need to switch to bear claw style latches?
The top of the door I can get the 3/16" no problem. Bottom will be set when I put the inner and outer rockers in. |
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#2 |
Registered User
Join Date: Apr 2008
Location: Md
Posts: 2,485
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Re: Door gap question
Doors are a pita, how are your hinges? You will get an answer here , hopefully. Different latch won't solve the problem, IMO. Striker off, best gap you can get, then shimmed the striker to it.
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http://67-72chevytrucks.com/vboard/s...d.php?t=635605 |
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#3 |
Post Whore
![]() Join Date: Feb 2016
Location: Portland Oregon
Posts: 11,605
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Re: Door gap question
This thread has good information that may help. The door striker is adjusted front to back ( on the truck) with shims (lines point to them in photo)
I hope this helps. http://67-72chevytrucks.com/vboard/forumdisplay.php?f=3
__________________
Thanks to Bob and Jeanie and everyone else at Superior Performance for all their great help. ![]() RIP Bob Parks. 1967 Burban (the WMB),1988 S10 Blazer (the Stink10 II),1969 GTO (the Goat), 1970 Javelin, 1952 F2 Ford OHC six 4X4, 29 Model A, 72 Firebird (the DBP Bird). 85 Alfa Romeo If it breaks I didn't want it in the first place The WMB repair thread http://67-72chevytrucks.com/vboard/s...d.php?t=698377 |
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#4 |
Registered User
Join Date: May 2018
Location: Prattville, AL
Posts: 611
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Re: Door gap question
I broke down the hinges and replaced the bushings and pins. Glad I did as the bushing that were in there were worn out plastic. So the hinges no longer have any play in them.
I thought about removing the striker to get my door gap but thought that it would create an issue later on. |
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#5 |
Registered User
Join Date: May 2018
Location: Prattville, AL
Posts: 611
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Re: Door gap question
HO455 your link doesn't work. I pretty sure half of it is missing.
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#6 |
Post Whore
![]() Join Date: Feb 2016
Location: Portland Oregon
Posts: 11,605
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Re: Door gap question
Sorry about the bad link.
Try these. http://67-72chevytrucks.com/vboard/s...ad.php?t=29970 http://67-72chevytrucks.com/vboard/s...d.php?t=680781
__________________
Thanks to Bob and Jeanie and everyone else at Superior Performance for all their great help. ![]() RIP Bob Parks. 1967 Burban (the WMB),1988 S10 Blazer (the Stink10 II),1969 GTO (the Goat), 1970 Javelin, 1952 F2 Ford OHC six 4X4, 29 Model A, 72 Firebird (the DBP Bird). 85 Alfa Romeo If it breaks I didn't want it in the first place The WMB repair thread http://67-72chevytrucks.com/vboard/s...d.php?t=698377 |
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#7 |
Registered User
Join Date: May 2018
Location: Prattville, AL
Posts: 611
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Re: Door gap question
Thanks HO455 those links worked. Lots of good information there. Looks like the issue is that the latch plate is sticking out to far. Tomorrow I try removing all the shims and see how much that helps the rear gap.
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