The 1947 - Present Chevrolet & GMC Truck Message Board Network







Register or Log In To remove these advertisements.

Go Back   The 1947 - Present Chevrolet & GMC Truck Message Board Network > 47 - Current classic GM Trucks > The 1973 - 1987 Chevrolet & GMC Squarebody Pickups Message Board

Web 67-72chevytrucks.com


Reply
 
Thread Tools Display Modes
Old 06-06-2004, 02:39 PM   #1
PHOENIX
Registered User
 
Join Date: Oct 2002
Location: Phoenix, Arizona
Posts: 4,703
Question Oil Pan Removal in Vehicle ?

Can the oil pan be removed while the engine is in the vehicle. I need to change the gasket because I believe it is causing one of my leaks (valve cover is other for sure). I will replace it with a 1-piece gasket.

What can I expect to run into, what else will need to be removed to get the pan out. All tips and suggestions are welcome.

Thanks.
__________________
* AVOID: LOPER'S PERMORANCE / LOPERSPEED.COM OF PHOENIX, AZ & COTTMAN TRANSMISSION *
PHOENIX is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 06-06-2004, 03:40 PM   #2
78chevstepside
Registered User
 
78chevstepside's Avatar
 
Join Date: Nov 2002
Location: lacenter, washington
Posts: 718
Shouldnt be a problem. It might be a good idea to change the timing chain cover gasket also to insure no leaks. Or be real carefull not to mess up the seal on the timing chain cover.
78chevstepside is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 06-06-2004, 04:07 PM   #3
1FaastC10
Account Suspended
 
1FaastC10's Avatar
 
Join Date: Oct 2002
Location: Elkhart, IN
Posts: 6,400
Quote:
Originally Posted by 78chevstepside
Shouldnt be a problem. It might be a good idea to change the timing chain cover gasket also to insure no leaks. Or be real carefull not to mess up the seal on the timing chain cover.
not a problem with a 1 piece gasket, as it replaces the lower timing cover seal.

Eddie, i have done this in a C10 before. if you just try to remove it, you wont be able to get it out. i actually lifted the engine a few inches out of the mounts, it gave me enough clearance to get it out without problems. only thing you really have to remove to get it out would be the distributor cap, to allow you to lift it up enough, other than that its pretty straight forward.
1FaastC10 is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 06-06-2004, 04:13 PM   #4
low 84
Registered User
 
low 84's Avatar
 
Join Date: Jan 2002
Location: Houston, TX
Posts: 2,144
i have to disagree with you jeremy. i have taken my stock pan and even an after market 7 qt pan out without having to lift the engine. in fact there is room to spare when doing it. you shouldn't have to do anything but remove the pan bolts to get it out.

this was on a 2wd though, i have no idea if a 4wd truck has less crossmember clearence or not, but it ddosen't matter because eddies is a 2wd
__________________
'51 F100, backhalf with a narrowed 9 and coil overs, 18.5" mickeys, monte front clip, +400" sbc in the works

'05 1500 Crew Cab

RIP
'84 swb 5/7 drop, solid cammed 408 w/ fully ported dart heads, th350 w/ 10 inch hughes, 12 bolt w/ 3.73 richmonds and a locker
'80 swb 4x4 in progress: 7" lift, 350 th350/np205, d44 and 1.5" ORD tie rod, 14BFF w/discs , armored diff covers, 40" MTR's
low 84 is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 06-06-2004, 04:13 PM   #5
N2TRUX
Happy to be here
 
N2TRUX's Avatar
 
Join Date: Mar 2000
Location: Cypress, TX
Posts: 39,023
Jeremy pegged it. If you take the dizzy cap off and lay it forward everything else should clear. I put a 4x4 block on top of my floor jack and raised the motor from the harmonic balancer. It still takes some finesse (thats a fancy word for cussin) to get past the oil pick up, but it can be done....
N2TRUX is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 06-06-2004, 04:20 PM   #6
1FaastC10
Account Suspended
 
1FaastC10's Avatar
 
Join Date: Oct 2002
Location: Elkhart, IN
Posts: 6,400
i did it on my C10, and i've done it on a K10. C10 needed the motor lifted, K10 did not.
1FaastC10 is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 06-06-2004, 04:21 PM   #7
bigblock73
yeller
 
bigblock73's Avatar
 
Join Date: Oct 2001
Location: Twin Cities
Posts: 13,826
I have done it before, and didn't have to raise the engine at all. It was a fairly simple job...except for NOT using a 1-piece gasket...that was a pain in the butt.
bigblock73 is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 06-06-2004, 05:00 PM   #8
N2TRUX
Happy to be here
 
N2TRUX's Avatar
 
Join Date: Mar 2000
Location: Cypress, TX
Posts: 39,023
Hmmm? Maybe since I had to do it that way on my 84 Camaro, I "assumed" I had to do the same on my truck. I say give it a try without lifting the motor, if it doesn't clear then lift the motor.

See how easy it was to resolve that dispute.... :p
N2TRUX is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 06-06-2004, 05:14 PM   #9
swervin ervin
You get what you pay for
 
swervin ervin's Avatar
 
Join Date: Dec 1999
Location: Cherryville, NC
Posts: 4,798
No you don't need to lift the engine. I've taken mine off real easy without doing a thing but removing the tranny dust cover.
__________________
Mike

1985 Chevy C-10
swervin ervin is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 06-06-2004, 09:40 PM   #10
Tom
driving is in my blood
 
Tom's Avatar
 
Join Date: Dec 1999
Location: Mesa AZ
Posts: 5,733
I could take either one of my pans off without lifting the engine, thankfully I haven't had too yet
__________________
-78 c10 short/step: 388cid, M20, 5/5 drop, lots more. Playtoy and first vehicle.
-98 c1500 x-cab: 5.7L, 17" rims, 5/6 drop, flowmaster, helper bags,NBS rear disk brakes.
-02 Suburban 4x4: leveled front
-CBR600F4i, CBR600RR, CBR1000RR, and standup skis
DISCLAIMER: I cant spell for the life of me.
Tom is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 06-06-2004, 09:41 PM   #11
1FaastC10
Account Suspended
 
1FaastC10's Avatar
 
Join Date: Oct 2002
Location: Elkhart, IN
Posts: 6,400
maybe my stock 83 Caprice oil pan is what made the difference? i have helped friends do it before too, but they all had Caprice/Impala 350s in them. maybe they're different than truck pans? there was absolutely no way to get them out without lifting it, we tried that first.
1FaastC10 is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 06-06-2004, 09:52 PM   #12
PHOENIX
Registered User
 
Join Date: Oct 2002
Location: Phoenix, Arizona
Posts: 4,703
Thanks guys didn't expect this many responses so fast

Do you think the fact that I have a manual trans will make it more difficult to remove?

Ill of course try it without lifting the engine first.
If I end up doing the timing chain because of my timing issues I will be replacing all those gaskets at once.

In my Chilton ( ) manual it says:
To jack the vehicle up high enough for the oil pan to stand vertical because you may need that room to get it out.
You may (on some vehicles) have to lift the engine and to lift from the trans. If you need additional room then remove the motor mount through bolts.

When removing the pan do I need to worry about the oil pump or the baffle?

Thanks again
__________________
* AVOID: LOPER'S PERMORANCE / LOPERSPEED.COM OF PHOENIX, AZ & COTTMAN TRANSMISSION *
PHOENIX is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 06-07-2004, 12:32 AM   #13
apstguy
LED King
 
apstguy's Avatar
 
Join Date: Jan 2003
Location: Sacramento, CA
Posts: 2,088
I didn't need to do anything to get it out. Unbolt it and it pulls right out no problem. Why do other people have problems?
__________________
Tyler

1985 C10 305 w/ Bowtie OD TH700R4 3.42 LSD 202,000 miles
2006 Ford Focus ZX3 5-speed Stick
2016 Chevy Spark EV
Gone: 2002.5 VW GTI 24v VR6
Gone: 2008 VW R32
apstguy is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 06-07-2004, 06:53 AM   #14
bigblock73
yeller
 
bigblock73's Avatar
 
Join Date: Oct 2001
Location: Twin Cities
Posts: 13,826
Eddie...No and No.
bigblock73 is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 06-07-2004, 08:38 AM   #15
Ric83
Registered User
 
Ric83's Avatar
 
Join Date: Jan 2003
Location: Austin, TX
Posts: 824
Quote:
Originally Posted by swervin ervin
No you don't need to lift the engine. I've taken mine off real easy without doing a thing but removing the tranny dust cover.
Ditto. The only thing I had to do was remove the tranny dust cover to pull the pan back.
__________________
Ric
'83 Silverado SWB Fleetside
Here she is

Last edited by Ric83; 06-07-2004 at 10:54 AM.
Ric83 is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 06-07-2004, 10:03 AM   #16
MylilBowTie
Right turn Clyde
 
MylilBowTie's Avatar
 
Join Date: Nov 2002
Location: Cincinnati, Ohio
Posts: 2,911
Quote:
Originally Posted by N2TRUX
I put a 4x4 block on top of my floor jack and raised the motor from the harmonic balancer.
I wouldn't in the very least recommend lifting the engine that way. Its not that hard at all to have the crank snout snap off doing that. Then that is where the fun begins. Just something to think about if you do that.

There is a kit number for felpro kit that has the one piece oil pan seal, bolts, and four alignment studs. That is what I used and it was pretty easy. Just got the truck up pretty high, drained the oil, took the bolts out and dropped it, cleaned it up really good, then put it all back.
__________________
1974 C25 LWB: 454 4bbl Carb / TH400 / 3.73
1992 Camaro RS 305 TBI
MylilBowTie is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 06-07-2004, 10:52 AM   #17
76HighSierra
DAMN, I love Big Blocks!
 
76HighSierra's Avatar
 
Join Date: Aug 2003
Location: New Mexico, USA
Posts: 619
I've had to remove/replace several pans on SBC's in these pickups and have never had to jack the engine. Always just pulled the converter inspection pan, and oil pan bolts and down it comes. Once in a while, it took some manuvering to get the pan away from the oil pickup, but they always came down. Anybody know if the procedure is the same with the big block? I've worked on tons of SBC's in these trucks, but my '76 is the first BB that I've worked on in a pickup chassis.
__________________
Marc Bona
Hobbs, New Mexico
1976 1/2 ton GMC High Sierra.
454 c.i.d./ TH400. *Soon to get a mild warming over.*
3.40 rear.
76HighSierra is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 06-07-2004, 11:25 AM   #18
Destructo
Registered User
 
Join Date: Sep 2003
Location: Lewisville, NC
Posts: 1,836
Quote:
Originally Posted by low 84
this was on a 2wd though, i have no idea if a 4wd truck has less crossmember clearence or not, but it ddosen't matter because eddies is a 2wd

4wd only has to worry about the front axle being the way, the engine crossmember is right under the balancer and not in the way, as a matter of fact on my 4" lift 4x4 the pan can practically drop straight down.
__________________
1985 Scottsdale Shortbed 4x4
Stout 350 with some "upgrades"-700r4-33x12.5" Mud Tires, Warn 8274-50 winch.

2005 Chevrolet Colorado Regular Cab 2wd 4-banger, 5 speed, Street Pack with 3.73 axle.
Destructo is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 06-07-2004, 11:44 AM   #19
PHOENIX
Registered User
 
Join Date: Oct 2002
Location: Phoenix, Arizona
Posts: 4,703
Great info guys, thanks.
__________________
* AVOID: LOPER'S PERMORANCE / LOPERSPEED.COM OF PHOENIX, AZ & COTTMAN TRANSMISSION *
PHOENIX is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 06-07-2004, 11:55 AM   #20
Grim Reaper
Registered User
 
Join Date: Jul 2001
Location: Atlanta GA
Posts: 1,704
If your going to drop the pan and that motor has any sort of miles on it you might concider doing a timing chain and front seal. Motor with 100k on it I can about gurantee the timing chain is a little loose. I heve never had good luck getting it sealed back up after doign a timing chain without dropping the pan. Might as well get it out of the way. More work now but less in the long run.
__________________
Grim-Reaper
70 Pontiac LeMans Sport Convertible, worlds longest resto in progress
Looking for 71-72 2wd Blazer or Jimmy Project
Grim Reaper is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 06-07-2004, 12:07 PM   #21
PHOENIX
Registered User
 
Join Date: Oct 2002
Location: Phoenix, Arizona
Posts: 4,703
Well I have some timing issues I need to fix and dont know if its distr. or timing chain at this point. Going to play with the distr. tonight and see how everything feels and looks. What really sucks is I dont know how many miles are on my engine. I put a crate motor in years ago and when I had the old gauges in. We wrote down the miles somewhere and I cant find them. Then I put the autometers in and I dont know what I did with the miles on that one. So I dont know how many miles are on this thing. Based on how many miles I drive and how many I used to drive I think I have around 80k on this motor.
__________________
* AVOID: LOPER'S PERMORANCE / LOPERSPEED.COM OF PHOENIX, AZ & COTTMAN TRANSMISSION *
PHOENIX is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 06-07-2004, 01:15 PM   #22
arveetek
Ultimate Diesel Dude
 
arveetek's Avatar
 
Join Date: Oct 2002
Location: Southwest Missouri
Posts: 328
I'm not sure why there are so many different experiences on oil pans out there. I, too, had to raise the engine to remove the pan on my 305 in an '81 3/4 ton, 2WD with auto tranny. There was no way I could get it out otherwise....I tried!

However, on my '86 4WD, the pan fell right out. I always assumed that you had to lift the engine on a 2WD, but not on a 4WD, due to the different style of crossmembers. Guess it just depends on engines and trucks, how they are set up, etc.

Casey
__________________
Project truck: '81 C/20 converted to 6.2L TURBO DIESEL bored .040", gear drive, 6.5L injectors/pump, custom pistons, custom 4" exhaust, 700R4, 4.10's
Daily Driver: '95 K1500 Tahoe, 6.5L TURBO DIESEL, NP241, 4L80E, 3.42's
arveetek is offline   Reply With Quote
Reply

Bookmarks


Posting Rules
You may not post new threads
You may not post replies
You may not post attachments
You may not edit your posts

BB code is On
Smilies are On
[IMG] code is On
HTML code is Off

Forum Jump


All times are GMT -4. The time now is 07:47 PM.


Powered by vBulletin® Version 3.8.11
Copyright ©2000 - 2024, vBulletin Solutions Inc.
Copyright 1997-2022 67-72chevytrucks.com