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Old 08-22-2019, 06:57 PM   #1
Steeveedee
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Re: Bleeding new brake system.

On a single reservoir system, I usually just open a bleeder or both in the back and let the fluid run down to them. Just leave the cap loose so that there isn't a "suction". No pumping needed, unless you are in a hurry. Just add fluid as needed. I even do that on my '70 truck, but with a dual reservoir. Once you get fluid to the rears, do the same in the front. Then you can have someone step on the pedal and you can chase any leaks. With all new lines, it should gravity bleed just fine. You might have to tap the wheel cylinders with a rubber mallet to get all the bubbles out.
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Old 08-22-2019, 11:02 PM   #2
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Re: Bleeding new brake system.

Well I started out just how i described in my first post. I got alot of air bubbles and eventually fluid out of the left rear wheel cylinder, so I switched to the right rear. Again, I got a lot of air bubbles then a steady stream. All the while maintaining MC level. But when i went to the front bleeders I ran into trouble. It seems I dont have a wrench to fit into the tight area that the front bleeders are located. The front bleeders are right up next to the spindle. A flare wrench wont fit. I even ground down the 10 MM open end wrench I was using on the rears but that didnt make a difference. In fact it seems I need a 9MM open end wrench for the front bleeders. A 8MM is to small, 10MM to big, 3/8" is a struggle to make it fit and when I do, I have no leverage on the wrench because of the brake backing plate, brake hose, upper control arm, and tire. I'm contemplating doing a "rough job" of bleeding the brakes and coasting/down shifting (sm420 w/granny low gear) to my mechanic which is literally .9 miles from my house. Straight road, no stop signs,no signal lights, and slightly downhill. If I have my dad in the truck driving/coasting in 1st, me behind him in my truck with hazards on at say 10-11 p.m. at night(practically no one on the road) I think we can manage to make it and have the mechanic pressure bleed the system. He pressure bled the system on my 72 c10 with disc/drum brakes for $35. The brake warning light tripped right after I established a good pedal and pulled into the alley behind my house which immediately tripped the brake warning light in the dash and I had almost no pedal. I made the same trip I speak of around 10 a.m. with my step mom following behind in her car and I managed to make it. My dad says towing it is out of question.(why? I dont know. I have AAA.) Anybody know of any tips or tricks for getting access to the front drum bleed screws on 1964 c10? Heres a couple of pictures.
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Old 08-22-2019, 11:29 PM   #3
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Re: Bleeding new brake system.

Can you get a thin walled socket on them to get them broke loose and then use an open end wrench during the bleeding process?
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Old 08-23-2019, 05:28 AM   #4
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Re: Bleeding new brake system.

I had the same problem a few years ago when I did my breaks. Then I saw that my old brake cylinders had longer bleeders. So I put the old bleeders in my new cylinders and had more space to use an open wrench (just enough).
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Old 08-23-2019, 10:28 AM   #5
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Re: Bleeding new brake system.

Quote:
Originally Posted by BabyBlue64 View Post
I had the same problem a few years ago when I did my breaks. Then I saw that my old brake cylinders had longer bleeders. So I put the old bleeders in my new cylinders and had more space to use an open wrench (just enough).
^ Here's your answer, Mike! You should be able to buy tall bleeders. Have the mechanic put them in when he bleeds the fronts, if you still can't get them out.
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