78 Blazer issues...need some sound advice - The 1947 - Present Chevrolet & GMC Truck Message Board Network

ChargerBill · 06-04-2004, 12:09 PM

Hi guys, it's been a while since I've been here. My '56 Custom Cab 3100 is still sitting and in need of some TLC, and since I've been building my Charger it's gonna have to wait. But here's my newest dilemma:

I traded a '78 Blazer for paint and body to a body guy here in town. After 2 1/2 years and minimal work on the Charger he gave me back the Blazer and we called it even. He did offroad the thing and I've noticed a few issues I need to address.

Issue#1) It has Rancho 5-way adjustable shocks. Somehow he busted off the turn-knob on the front passenger shock and I can't find any sort of tool to adjust it. He had the shocks set to the softest setting and it's hard to drive around town at that setting. I tried an allen wrench and a slot head scredriver but can't seem to actuate the setting mechanism...any ideas?

Issue#2) BEFORE he got the Blazer I replaced the ball joints, wheel bearrings and race, put NEW deluxe manual Warn hubs, new rotors, callipers, tie rod ends, axle u-joints, front driveshaft...almost everything except a new gearset. It rides on a 4" Skyjacker spring lift and has 36" tires. The problem is that the steering is really sloppy and unresponsive. The tire pressure is normal and I welded the cracks in the frame at the steering box...any ideas? Where should I look first? He only put about 5,000 miles on this thing before he gave it back, so I can't imagine that any of the new parts I replaced are worn...but maybe they are.

Anyway, I am wanting to get her roadworthy and safe so I can sell her. There are a lot of upgrades and money into the drivetrain. The body is marginal, but I have extra sheetmetal to replace all the dented stuff: a perfect OEM hood, a near-perfect OEM tailgate, brand new front fenders and a new steel paintable rear bumper. It has a '65 Corvette 327 with 202 camel hump heads, the NP 205/SM 465 combo, a 12 bolt rear, Dana 44 front etc... It has Federally smog exemption, the top is in good shape-no cracks... I'm not sure what to ask for it, and I'm not sure if I should sell it as is with all the extra parts or if I should install the parts myself. Anyone have any opinions or advice?

BTW: YES, I did istall the appropriate pitman arm...so that's not the culprit either...

stomper72 · 06-07-2004, 12:05 AM

Well first of all I would get new shocks. If he wheeled alot then there probably wore anyway. Issue number two, crossover steering. I know this doesn't help you any but it's a thought.

**JIMs70GMC** · 06-07-2004, 04:48 AM

Jack up the front end and check the ball-joints and tie rod ends first. Check the play in the front bearings. Have somebody turn the wheel while your under the truck and look at each joint. Make sure the steering gear box is tight against the frame. You install a pitman arm or steering arm, one corrects drag angles more than the other, but your not having a bump steer issue so this should not be a concern. Sounds like play in something.

DennyB · 06-07-2004, 08:31 AM

Re:#2 - Check the steering gear.
Have someone turn the wheel back and forth a little at a time and see how far it goes before the pitman arm starts moving.

Mudder · 06-08-2004, 02:37 AM

The rivets in my front cross member were so loose it was causing me problems. Look at it while your under there and make sure its not moving when you turn the wheel back and forth.

DennyB · 06-08-2004, 10:01 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Mudder67

The rivets in my front cross member were so loose it was causing me problems. Look at it while your under there and make sure its not moving when you turn the wheel back and forth.

Hey Mudder,
I have this on my ford.
I was thinking of welding a bead on each side of the cross member.
How did you make the repair?

Mudder · 06-09-2004, 02:18 AM

They are both welded.........

ChargerBill · 06-09-2004, 05:08 PM

You know, it does actually kind of feel like the frame is racking...I'll check the rivets out...never thought of it before, thanks. This truck isn't top priority, although it is taking up space or else I'd keep it. I need the space and time to work on my Charger and my 56 pick-up so I need to get it safe and sold. I guess I could sell it as is, but I've never believed in selling a running car that is unsafe to the next owner.

06-07-2004, 04:48 AM	#3
JIMs70GMC user # 2756 Join Date: Jun 2001 Location: Chesapeake, Virginia Posts: 4,612	Jack up the front end and check the ball-joints and tie rod ends first. Check the play in the front bearings. Have somebody turn the wheel while your under the truck and look at each joint. Make sure the steering gear box is tight against the frame. You install a pitman arm or steering arm, one corrects drag angles more than the other, but your not having a bump steer issue so this should not be a concern. Sounds like play in something. __________________ 1970 K25, 8' stepside bed 350/465/205 44 up front, 60 in the rear 4.10s rolling on 33" Dunlop MTs 1986 K5, 350/465/208 Dana 60/14 bolt from a cucv 36" Super Swampers TSL/SX 1983 K20 w/ CUCV axles, 350/700R4/208 sitting on 37" Goodyears 1986 M1031 6.2 diesel, TH400/NP205 locker in the rear and a LS in the front, all stock for now..... 1986 K30, 350/400/205 dana 60 and 14 bolt. I kept the drivetrain. Body/bad and chassis are gone. 1981 K30, 350/465/205 dana 60 and dually 14 bolt. Has a G80, and a flat bed. Going to replace the flat bed. 1985 K20, 350/400/208 10 bolt and SF 14 bolt. I wonder where I can find some 1 tons. Hmmmmm

06-07-2004, 08:31 AM	#4
DennyB Led Sled! Discs R 4 ME! Join Date: Jan 2001 Location: Toms River, NJ, USA (Transplanted Hoosier) Posts: 7,327	Re:#2 - Check the steering gear. Have someone turn the wheel back and forth a little at a time and see how far it goes before the pitman arm starts moving. __________________ "Never ride faster than your Angel can fly" I.M.O.M,W,J&C Patriot Guard Rider

06-09-2004, 05:08 PM	#8
ChargerBill Registered User Join Date: Apr 2003 Location: Northern California Posts: 27	You know, it does actually kind of feel like the frame is racking...I'll check the rivets out...never thought of it before, thanks. This truck isn't top priority, although it is taking up space or else I'd keep it. I need the space and time to work on my Charger and my 56 pick-up so I need to get it safe and sold. I guess I could sell it as is, but I've never believed in selling a running car that is unsafe to the next owner. __________________ 1956 Chevy Custom Cab 1978 Chevy K5 Blazer 2002 4X4 Silverado 1969 Dodge Charger 1968 Dodge Charger

06-04-2004, 12:09 PM	#1
ChargerBill Registered User Join Date: Apr 2003 Location: Northern California Posts: 27	78 Blazer issues...sloppy steering etc...advice? Hi guys, it's been a while since I've been here. My '56 Custom Cab 3100 is still sitting and in need of some TLC, and since I've been building my Charger it's gonna have to wait. But here's my newest dilemma: I traded a '78 Blazer for paint and body to a body guy here in town. After 2 1/2 years and minimal work on the Charger he gave me back the Blazer and we called it even. He did offroad the thing and I've noticed a few issues I need to address. Issue#1) It has Rancho 5-way adjustable shocks. Somehow he busted off the turn-knob on the front passenger shock and I can't find any sort of tool to adjust it. He had the shocks set to the softest setting and it's hard to drive around town at that setting. I tried an allen wrench and a slot head scredriver but can't seem to actuate the setting mechanism...any ideas? Issue#2) BEFORE he got the Blazer I replaced the ball joints, wheel bearrings and race, put NEW deluxe manual Warn hubs, new rotors, callipers, tie rod ends, axle u-joints, front driveshaft...almost everything except a new gearset. It rides on a 4" Skyjacker spring lift and has 36" tires. The problem is that the steering is really sloppy and unresponsive. The tire pressure is normal and I welded the cracks in the frame at the steering box...any ideas? Where should I look first? He only put about 5,000 miles on this thing before he gave it back, so I can't imagine that any of the new parts I replaced are worn...but maybe they are. Anyway, I am wanting to get her roadworthy and safe so I can sell her. There are a lot of upgrades and money into the drivetrain. The body is marginal, but I have extra sheetmetal to replace all the dented stuff: a perfect OEM hood, a near-perfect OEM tailgate, brand new front fenders and a new steel paintable rear bumper. It has a '65 Corvette 327 with 202 camel hump heads, the NP 205/SM 465 combo, a 12 bolt rear, Dana 44 front etc... It has Federally smog exemption, the top is in good shape-no cracks... I'm not sure what to ask for it, and I'm not sure if I should sell it as is with all the extra parts or if I should install the parts myself. Anyone have any opinions or advice? BTW: YES, I did istall the appropriate pitman arm...so that's not the culprit either... __________________ 1956 Chevy Custom Cab 1978 Chevy K5 Blazer 2002 4X4 Silverado 1969 Dodge Charger 1968 Dodge Charger Last edited by ChargerBill; 06-04-2004 at 01:22 PM.

06-07-2004, 12:05 AM	#2
stomper72 Registered User Join Date: Jun 2003 Location: Arnold, MO Posts: 110	Well first of all I would get new shocks. If he wheeled alot then there probably wore anyway. Issue number two, crossover steering. I know this doesn't help you any but it's a thought.

06-08-2004, 02:37 AM	#5
Mudder Registered User Join Date: Feb 2001 Location: East Central, MO Posts: 11,336	The rivets in my front cross member were so loose it was causing me problems. Look at it while your under there and make sure its not moving when you turn the wheel back and forth.

06-09-2004, 02:18 AM	#7
Mudder Registered User Join Date: Feb 2001 Location: East Central, MO Posts: 11,336	They are both welded.........



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