The "In over my head" build thread

[jaros44sr]

Originally Posted by SeventyOne

Please tell me more about your heater cables! pics, part numbers etc!

In doing some reading I may need to lube up these cables. Will do that and reply back!

well, it will be awhile before I get back into the heater system, but basically just replace the solid core cable with stranded and lubricate, the ends could be made out of aluminum. if you need help with ends lmk

[SeventyOne]

Originally Posted by jaros44sr

well, it will be awhile before I get back into the heater system, but basically just replace the solid core cable with stranded and lubricate, the ends could be made out of aluminum. if you need help with ends lmk

Are you saying keep the black plastic sheathing and replace the cable itself with a braided (ie more flexy) cable and attach new ends?

I think i get it now. I've never worked with that style cable before but suppose i could give it a go. Yeah let me know what you thought for the cable ends...

[jaros44sr]

Originally Posted by SeventyOne

Are you saying keep the black plastic sheathing and replace the cable itself with a braided (ie more flexy) cable and attach new ends?

I think i get it now. I've never worked with that style cable before but suppose i could give it a go. Yeah let me know what you thought for the cable ends...

I was thinking buy the whole shroud and stranded cable

[url=https://flic.kr/p/2hsGAwD]20191009_130922

to much light but you may get the idea, the aluminum ends are attached with four set screws

[SeventyOne]

10/21 - "Nipples, Clamps, and...Hoses"

I promise this is a post about the K/5

Spent some time this past weekend taking care of some loose (hose) ends in the engine bay.

Started off draining the radiator, popping the top hose off and unbolting the mounts so i could lean it forward and install to the battery tray bolts that are right next to the radiator. Then I got to work on the evap system hoses, and heater hoses.





I think everything came out pretty clean and i'm happy with the hose routing. I routed the evap PCV and timed vacuum lines back behind the heater then behind the fender to the corner where the evap can is.



Got the brake booster line ran to a 90* rear manifold fitting, plugged the rear carb fitting. the 90 allowed me to use a shorter booster hose and the elbow pointed it right over towards the booster so you dont have a long snaking hose.



And then I also swapped on a new grill bowtie and got the headlights installed



And the updated punch list:

PUNCH LIST
Under Dash
-Radio + Aux/USB in the cig lighter + hidden antenna
-Connect dash grounds
-Check carb gets to WOT with pedal travel
-Install glove box

Interior
-Install door seals (ordered new press on seals)
-Cut MLV and install under front carpet
-Finalize front carpet placement and make holes for shifter, dimmer switch, + seat bolts, seat belts
-Install shifter, boot, + trim ring
-Install new rear carpet
-Drill holes for: front + rear carpet strips, sill plates, tailgate seal vertical strips, center console mounting holes

Underhood
-Finish underhood wiring
-Install radiator overflow
-Install wiper fluid reservior
-Install horns
-Cut 1/4" threaded rod for air cleaner stud

[SeventyOne]

11/4 - Leveling the playing field

Alright so a couple weeks ago when " first installed the ACC carpet (that was too short) I did a little side project on the leveling mats for the rear cargo area.

Mine were in...rough shape but i thought I'd try to salvage them. I ordered a roll of some mass loaded vinyl for sound deadening purposes and planned to use it under the carpet. So I took my falling apart mats...



....cut out the shape in the vinyl...



...and used some high strength adhesive to affix it on top of my mats to strengthen them and prevent further deterioration.





Got them in the truck, cut another sheet of the vinyl to go between the two leveling mats) then laid the new rear carpet with my helper (ACC replaced the carpet after giving a few simple measurements and pics, shipped for free, and didn't want my old carpet back. Not sure what to do now with a old piece!)

[SeventyOne]

Then I wanted to get the carpet strips in place as well as the tailgate seal.







Everything looked good to me except the gap seems excessive between the tailgate and the seal with the gate closed...The gate seals well on the vertical side areas, but in the middle on the horizontal it's almost like the tailgate is bowed. See the below pic. Is this normal?



I addition I laid the rest of the dynamat that goes behind the rear panels and inside the doors then started to assemble the Retrosound radio unit so that I might be able to install it next time!

...the updated punch list:

PUNCH LIST
Under Dash
-Radio + Aux/USB in the cig lighter + hidden antenna
-Connect dash grounds
-Check carb gets to WOT with pedal travel
-Install glove box

Interior
-Install door seals (ordered new press on seals)
-Cut MLV and install under front carpet
-Finalize front carpet placement and make holes for shifter, dimmer switch, + seat bolts, seat belts
-Drill holes for: center console mounting holes and still plates
-Install tcase shifter, boot, + trim ring

Underhood
-Finish underhood wiring
-Install radiator overflow
-Install wiper fluid reservoir
-Install horns
-Cut 1/4" threaded rod for air cleaner stud

Misc
Get battery cables
Get fire extinguisher
Double check all fluids

[SeventyOne]

11/16 - Getting Worlds to Align

I think I mentioned something about a simple 15 minute install ends up taking 90 minutes in a prior post. Yesterdays adventure was very much in this vein.

I received the new precision weatherstripping press-on door seals earlier in the week and make it the goal to install these. I unbolted the top and a friend and I moved it back about 8" along the bed rails and just let it set there. Easy. That took 10 minutes

We proceeded to screw the large rubber ends to the windshield frame and press the seals onto the seam. After they were in place we unbolted the rubber ends, peeled them away from the windshield a few inches to apply sealant to the rubber end in an effort to prevent moisture from seeping down inside the windshield frame.

These seals are very nice and have a very good grip on the seam. The door rubber is very soft and the doors still close nicely with them installed. Very easy install.

We're now maybe about 30 minutes into the install...and I bet you can guess what happens next.

In short we struggled for about the next 3 hours to set the stop back in place and get all the bolt holes to align. We finally prevailed and learned some tricks along the way, but man, what a PITA.

Here's some pics of the seal:






Then we had about 30 minutes left of daylight so we got the front bumper mounted up Oh and I got that nice shiny stainless hardware on the diff cover



Might see if I can get a couple hours or work in today, and then I have the next 3 days off work and will be putting in FULL days on the truck. Anything short of massive progress will be a huge disappointment for me

PUNCH LIST
Under Dash
-Radio + Aux/USB in the cig lighter + hidden antenna
-Connect dash grounds
-Check carb gets to WOT with pedal travel
-Install glove box

Interior
-Cut MLV and install under front carpet
-Finalize front carpet placement and make holes for shifter, dimmer switch, + seat bolts, seat belts
-Drill holes for: center console mounting holes and still plates
-Install tcase shifter, boot, + trim ring

Underhood
-Finish underhood wiring
-Install radiator overflow
-Install wiper fluid reservoir
-Install horns
-Cut 1/4" threaded rod for air cleaner stud

Misc
Get fire extinguisher
Double check all fluids