K10 Steering problem.

[DJ_]

Hey everyone I got a problem, I have a 1972 K10 long bed. It has power steering, I just got it running like a month ago I just finish installing a 5.3 ls and right now its my daily driver. But My problem is that at low speeds my truck drives pretty good but on the freeway it all over the road, like scary all over the road. My truck is lift about 5 inches on 35s, i don't have the steering stabilizers, but I have some play in my steering wheel but the previous owner told me the steering box is pretty new on the truck. this is my truck.

[BILT4ME]

You need a steering stabilizer. (damper)

How is your toe-in/out adjustment? (Did you have it aligned?)

Check your tire pressures for equality.

A "new" steering box is STILL a rebuilt (remanufactured) worn out unit from someone else.

How are the tie rod ends? (TRE)

How was the lift accomplished? Is it a spring lift in front or did someone use blocks in the front?

Does your truck have a sway bar on the front? (Most did NOT come with one. Many folks add one from a 73-86 version)

It is possible that the front axle housing is bent. (BTDT) an actual alignment can tell you that.

Have you checked your front wheel bearings? If they are loose at all, it will wander all over.

Go through the list and report your findings.

[truckster]

How are the ball joints, tie rod ends, etc.? As far as the steering gearbox, what does "pretty new" mean? Was it a parts-store reman unit, something from a salvage yard? When you lift a truck and put large tires you multiply the steering problems it already has. You're probably going to need to check every component on the steering in order to be safe.

EDIT: Bilt4Me apparently types faster than I do. His list is good. I would recommend you not drive it on the highway until you've figured out and corrected the problem.

[franken]

Check the toe, or have a shop check it.

[dazza]

I had the same type of issue recently after finally putting it all back together. It took me a while and after going through everything I found my steering gear bolts were only in finger tight causing just enough play to feel it on the road. Even if somebody recently replaced it, it's a good idea to check those bolts again, as well as your engine mounts, etc.
After a long road trip just after finishing my restore, I found a LOT of loose ones under the hood.

[52napco]

With the lift probably needs more negative caster.

[57taskforce]

Add Spring bushings to the list of things to check. Caster being off will cause it to wander as well. They make shims to correct it if it's off. Edit*** 52napco types fast than me! id check the drag link ends as well. you'll have to go thru everything individually unfortunately. That's a real nice looking truck by the way!

[DJ_]

Thanks everyone for the advice! Yeah i got deaver springs all the way around with no blocks. I just had it 4 wheel parts when the put knew tires on it but I thought they would of align it for me. But Yeah my truck has no sway bars Im gonna check out my truck probably tomorrow afternoon or this weekend. I thought you only need steering stabilizers if the truck had a death wobble? sorry guys Im new to the 4x4 stuff, this my first 4x4, Ive always had 2wd trucks and cars.



so I should put a steering stabilizer and yeah Im gonna put at least a sway bar in the front I just got to look up on how to put one on it.

[57taskforce]

A square body donor will get you the sway bar. Yes I would put the stabilizer on it. These trucks aren't as susceptible to death wobble as the coil spring late model dodges and fords but it can happen. The stabilizer helps Protect the steering from road input. Don't take the bait on double steering stabilizers... it's a gimmick and not necessary. One stabilizer in the factory location is sufficient even with 35's.

[DJ_]

Originally Posted by 57taskforce

A square body donor will get you the sway bar. Yes I would put the stabilizer on it. These trucks aren't as susceptible to death wobble as the coil spring late model dodges and fords but it can happen. The stabilizer helps Protect the steering from road input. Don't take the bait on double steering stabilizers... it's a gimmick and not necessary. One stabilizer in the factory location is sufficient even with 35's.

ok I will do that thanks for all the good info,

[HO455]

One more thing I would check would be to swap the front tires with the rears. It wouldn't be the first time that a new tire was defective. Sharp looking truck too!

[DJ_]

Originally Posted by HO455

One more thing I would check would be to swap the front tires with the rears. It wouldn't be the first time that a new tire was defective. Sharp looking truck too!

ok I will have to try that out, I would have not even thought of that lol thanks

[HO455]

In the late 80's I put $100 into the front end of my GTO only to find out I had a tire that had failed internally. Although with pizza cutters on the front and L60's on the rear I couldn't do the swap test like you can.

[franken]

Snore. Step one is check the toe. The place you mentioned having it worked on is one to never go back to and they probably did less than what you paid for. Incorrect tow will make it dart as one front tire tries to go one direction, then you correct and the other takes over and tries to go another direction.
But feel free to drop a few months and a few grand in new parts before getting to the really obvious step one fix. Most people do it this way. It can't be the easiest or cheapest fix, we have to start with the most difficult and most expensive idea. After all, its the internet and your problem is decided by committee.

A couple lengths of wood strapped to the front tires and a tape measure will tell the toe tale. Caster on a solid axle front is almost unchangeable so forget that. Its sort of like the 4 wheel alignment offered by shops on a solid rear axle vehicle. Complete BS.

[57taskforce]

Just my .02. You may very well be right and all that's wrong is the toe, however on a truck that's new to him,45+ years old, and lifted I don't see how it's a bad idea to check front end specs and components for wear. You don't have to replace parts to check their functionality. Not trying to argue just thinking out loud.

[B. W.]

Many good comments here. 57taskforce is correct, it may simply be an alignment issue. Without getting involved, the only alignment adjustments are toe & centering the steering wheel. But, you cannot set toe if you have worn components. I suggest starting with a "dry park" test ... fancy name for someone in the cab moving the wheel back & forth in a short motion (with the engine off & vehicle not moving!) while you're underneath looking @ tie rod ends, drag link, pitman arm, gear box (rag joint) for any play or looseness. There should be ZERO play in any parts. Next, check your ball joints, jack up the front axle (you can do one side at a time) raise the tire a couple inches off the ground. Using the longest, biggest bar you have, wedge it under the tire & lift straight up on the tire. It may help to have someone looking @ the ball joints while you do this. I place my weak hand on the tire & feel for any play/movement. Again, there should be ZERO play. If all of this checks out good, set your toe.

If your truck still wanders, check your "over center" adjustment on your gearbox. To do this correctly is a little involved, you must disconnect the steering shaft & the drag link & use an inch pound, beam type torque wrench to measure pre-load. Lots of good videos on youTube.

rambled on here a little, hope this helps!
Bobby

[bser]

As previous poster replied, most likely a caster problem, front diff rotates wrong way as vehicle is lifted, perhaps
wedges to correct. My/our 2 cents

[HO455]

Originally Posted by bser

As previous poster replied, most likely a caster problem, front diff rotates wrong way as vehicle is lifted, perhaps
wedges to correct. My/our 2 cents

I went through that dance on my 52' 4x4 conversion. I couldn't get a good compromise between caster and u-joint to drive shaft angle. I could shim it for u-joint life but then there was too much caster or go i could run it the other way. I ended having to cut the axle and have the pumpkin rotated for it to be right. In the long run it was the best decision since I was being forced to cut the axle I also narrowed it so I could put disc brakes on!

[BIG BLOCK JIMMY]

DJ,
Did you ever figure it out? I have the same problem and no one can figure it out!