Motor Mount Perches - The 1947 - Present Chevrolet & GMC Truck Message Board Network

roll_the_dice · 10-14-2019, 02:46 PM

I have decided to move my engine to the front mount position to have more room for the HEI distributor and to fit my FlowTech Rams horn manifold. I need the 2 1/2" it will give me, plus I think the engine will look better.

I have found 2 new perches, but has anyone actually used these and what your thoughts were? Did the frame have to be notched? I read a thread from 2014 that someone said the Western had to notch the frame to fit...Thanks for any info you can give.

CPP
https://www.speedwaymotors.com/CPP-6...nt,268489.html

Western Chassis
https://www.performanceonline.com/19...-Brackets-V-8/

**The Rocknrod** · 10-14-2019, 05:19 PM

Whoa whats that about flow tech rams horn manifolds? You have pics at your firewall?

roll_the_dice · 10-14-2019, 05:36 PM

I will get some tomorrow. Maybe my plug wiring is in the way.

Do you know if those engines are in the front motor mount position or the rear? The first pic looks like the front 2 mounting holes on the mount, but no idea for sure. But that engine is much farther forward than mine.

Here is a side pic of mine without them on...seems to be sitting much farther back. My passenger side hit the firewall, but I am not an expert by any stretch...hence the questions.

I will definitely try moving the plug wiring to put them on tomorrow...that would be great!

**The Rocknrod** · 10-14-2019, 06:10 PM

I don't know either and am concerned as I purchased a set for mine. Those pics I posted are from this site but there was no info on the hole set they used.
Ya, keep us posted please.

roll_the_dice · 10-14-2019, 06:54 PM

OK, so I was curious and had to go out and try again. I also had an extra pair of hands to help. It is VERY close, but as you can see the manifold will not go high enough to cover the exhaust opening in the rear. It hits the firewall. I think it needs to go up another 1/2" minimum.

Now I may be able to grind some of the manifold off to get it to fit, but I probably will end up just moving the engine to the front location to get a better fit. Someone smarter and better than I am could get it to work easier. I also think it will look better not shoehorned against the firewall.

I talked to both CPP and Performance online about the perches and both said they do not need to notch the frame to move the engine forward. I haven't decided which I am going to buy yet, but will be ordering one tonight along with new motor mounts.

I am pretty sure the top engine/truck is pdxhalls (Brett's) as I am reading his build thread right now.

**The Rocknrod** · 10-14-2019, 07:58 PM

Well there's always Hedman Street headers.

Bushman66 · 10-14-2019, 09:48 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by The Rocknrod

Well there's always Hedman Street headers.

FWIW, I just installed the Hedmans, PERFECT fit, even with the clutch linkage. My engine is mounted in the factory rear location.

**LostMy65** · 10-14-2019, 10:35 PM

I bought the stock looking ramshorns with the 2-1/2 base. I'm happy with them.
Dorman 674-504 Exhaust Manifold Kit https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00068OIXQ..._qmVDwbWDNGWEA
My motor is in the rear holes.

**Captainfab** · 10-14-2019, 11:24 PM

I would keep the engine in the stock rear location. Those ram horn manifolds hit the firewall because they are designed differently than the factory ram horn manifolds. Those will likely fit with a slight dimple in the firewall. For the engine to sit at the correct angle, the engine mount brackets for the forward location need to be shorter than those used in the rear location. The '67-'72 trucks had the small blocks mounted in the forward location from the factory. Those engine mount brackets are shorter than those used in the rear location.

roll_the_dice · 10-15-2019, 09:45 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by LostMy65

I bought the stock looking ramshorns with the 2-1/2 base. I'm happy with them.
Dorman 674-504 Exhaust Manifold Kit https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00068OIXQ..._qmVDwbWDNGWEA
My motor is in the rear holes.

Before I started thinking about moving the engine forward, I thought I may put these rams horn in...similar to the Dorman without the bracket. They are only 2 3/4" thick from face to rear, so I think they would work, but I liked the way the engine forward looks better. SO I am unsure what to do.

Quote:

Originally Posted by Captainfab

I would keep the engine in the stock rear location. Those ram horn manifolds hit the firewall because they are designed differently than the factory ram horn manifolds. Those will likely fit with a slight dimple in the firewall. For the engine to sit at the correct angle, the engine mount brackets for the forward location need to be shorter than those used in the rear location. The '67-'72 trucks had the small blocks mounted in the forward location from the factory. Those engine mount brackets are shorter than those used in the rear location.

If I got 67-72 perches, I could move the engine forward and keep the same angle as OEM? I would have to drill for the bottom bolt? Would the frame need to be notched? I think the 67-72 came notched from the factory didn't they?

**The Rocknrod** · 10-15-2019, 01:16 PM

Just FYI the Hedman 69230 - http://67-72chevytrucks.com/vboard/s...46&postcount=1

**damnyankee36** · 10-15-2019, 03:13 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Captainfab

For the engine to sit at the correct angle, the engine mount brackets for the forward location need to be shorter than those used in the rear location. The '67-'72 trucks had the small blocks mounted in the forward location from the factory. Those engine mount brackets are shorter than those used in the rear location.

Could you go into a little more detail on this? I can't visualize why moving the mounts forward would appreciably change the angle. I would assume moving the mounts and trans crossmember forward would keep everything the same unless there is a different slope on the frame at the mounts compared to the crossmember.

But, without my truck to look at, I don't remember any slope; the frame at these locations seem relatively flat.

Must be missing something here...

Brad54 · 10-15-2019, 06:21 PM

Moving the engine forward is going to affect your trans mount, your shifter linkage, Z-bar and clutch linkage if you've got a manual, column-linkage if you've got an automatic, driveshaft length, and distance between the front of the water pump and radiator.

roll_the_dice · 10-15-2019, 06:38 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Brad54

Moving the engine forward is going to affect your trans mount, your shifter linkage, Z-bar and clutch linkage if you've got a manual, column-linkage if you've got an automatic, driveshaft length, and distance between the front of the water pump and radiator.

That all makes sense. Fortunately, in my situation, I am using an aftermarket trans crossmember with the Tremec T56 Magnum trans, hydraulic clutch, and my drive shaft has to be shortened anyway. I also have a short water pump and an electric fan on the radiator. I just measured and I have almost 9" between the belt system and the radiator mounts.

Almost forgot...you are in Athens...you should come help me!

**Captainfab** · 10-15-2019, 11:34 PM

The suspension crossmember where the bottom of the engine mount brackets attach is not flat from front to back. It slopes up as you go forward. This is why GM made the '67-'72 small block brackets shorter than the '63-'66 engine mount brackets which are the same as the '67-'72 230/250 I6 brackets.

Quote:

Originally Posted by damnyankee36

Could you go into a little more detail on this? I can't visualize why moving the mounts forward would appreciably change the angle. I would assume moving the mounts and trans crossmember forward would keep everything the same unless there is a different slope on the frame at the mounts compared to the crossmember.

But, without my truck to look at, I don't remember any slope; the frame at these locations seem relatively flat.

Must be missing something here...

**Captainfab** · 10-15-2019, 11:38 PM

The forward bottom hole should be there. While the top flange of the frame was narrower starting on '68 to allow for the big block exhaust manifolds, the frame does not need to be trimmed to accommodate the engine mount brackets.

Quote:

Originally Posted by roll_the_dice

If I got 67-72 perches, I could move the engine forward and keep the same angle as OEM? I would have to drill for the bottom bolt? Would the frame need to be notched? I think the 67-72 came notched from the factory didn't they?

roll_the_dice · 10-27-2019, 04:40 PM

Got the engine moved today....was pretty easy to do. We raised the engine and trans and rolled the chassis instead of trying to actually move the engine...worked like a charm!

New installed pics...You can compare the pictures above and how much more room there is.

The POL motor perches for 63-67 C-10's with wide frame rails were plug and play...no notching the frame and they kept everything in line.

10-14-2019, 02:46 PM	#1
roll_the_dice Registered User Join Date: Mar 2016 Location: Manlius, NY Posts: 1,698	Motor Mount Perches I have decided to move my engine to the front mount position to have more room for the HEI distributor and to fit my FlowTech Rams horn manifold. I need the 2 1/2" it will give me, plus I think the engine will look better. I have found 2 new perches, but has anyone actually used these and what your thoughts were? Did the frame have to be notched? I read a thread from 2014 that someone said the Western had to notch the frame to fit...Thanks for any info you can give. CPP https://www.speedwaymotors.com/CPP-6...nt,268489.html Western Chassis https://www.performanceonline.com/19...-Brackets-V-8/ __________________ 1965 C10 LWB Stepside 1964 GMC 1 Ton Dually Instagram #notaratrodnotashowtruck

10-14-2019, 05:19 PM	#2
The Rocknrod Moderator Join Date: Aug 2011 Location: China Spring, TX Posts: 7,280	Re: Motor Mount Perches Whoa whats that about flow tech rams horn manifolds? You have pics at your firewall? Attached Images __________________ Master Chief, US Navy, Retired 1964 C10 Step-side Short Bed - In Progress 2009 2500HD Duramax LTZ 1948 GMC Panel 1956 Big Window Stepside 1953 5 Window Chevy Stepside 1932 Coupe New Seat Foam for Bench Seats? Last edited by The Rocknrod; 10-14-2019 at 05:26 PM.

10-14-2019, 05:36 PM	#3
roll_the_dice Registered User Join Date: Mar 2016 Location: Manlius, NY Posts: 1,698	Re: Motor Mount Perches I will get some tomorrow. Maybe my plug wiring is in the way. Do you know if those engines are in the front motor mount position or the rear? The first pic looks like the front 2 mounting holes on the mount, but no idea for sure. But that engine is much farther forward than mine. Here is a side pic of mine without them on...seems to be sitting much farther back. My passenger side hit the firewall, but I am not an expert by any stretch...hence the questions. I will definitely try moving the plug wiring to put them on tomorrow...that would be great! Attached Images __________________ 1965 C10 LWB Stepside 1964 GMC 1 Ton Dually Instagram #notaratrodnotashowtruck

10-14-2019, 06:10 PM	#4
The Rocknrod Moderator Join Date: Aug 2011 Location: China Spring, TX Posts: 7,280	Re: Motor Mount Perches I don't know either and am concerned as I purchased a set for mine. Those pics I posted are from this site but there was no info on the hole set they used. Ya, keep us posted please. __________________ Master Chief, US Navy, Retired 1964 C10 Step-side Short Bed - In Progress 2009 2500HD Duramax LTZ 1948 GMC Panel 1956 Big Window Stepside 1953 5 Window Chevy Stepside 1932 Coupe New Seat Foam for Bench Seats?

10-14-2019, 06:54 PM	#5
roll_the_dice Registered User Join Date: Mar 2016 Location: Manlius, NY Posts: 1,698	Re: Motor Mount Perches OK, so I was curious and had to go out and try again. I also had an extra pair of hands to help. It is VERY close, but as you can see the manifold will not go high enough to cover the exhaust opening in the rear. It hits the firewall. I think it needs to go up another 1/2" minimum. Now I may be able to grind some of the manifold off to get it to fit, but I probably will end up just moving the engine to the front location to get a better fit. Someone smarter and better than I am could get it to work easier. I also think it will look better not shoehorned against the firewall. I talked to both CPP and Performance online about the perches and both said they do not need to notch the frame to move the engine forward. I haven't decided which I am going to buy yet, but will be ordering one tonight along with new motor mounts. I am pretty sure the top engine/truck is pdxhalls (Brett's) as I am reading his build thread right now. Attached Images __________________ 1965 C10 LWB Stepside 1964 GMC 1 Ton Dually Instagram #notaratrodnotashowtruck Last edited by roll_the_dice; 10-14-2019 at 07:00 PM.

10-14-2019, 07:58 PM	#6
The Rocknrod Moderator Join Date: Aug 2011 Location: China Spring, TX Posts: 7,280	Re: Motor Mount Perches Well there's always Hedman Street headers. __________________ Master Chief, US Navy, Retired 1964 C10 Step-side Short Bed - In Progress 2009 2500HD Duramax LTZ 1948 GMC Panel 1956 Big Window Stepside 1953 5 Window Chevy Stepside 1932 Coupe New Seat Foam for Bench Seats?

10-14-2019, 10:35 PM	#8
LostMy65 But Found Her 25yrs Later! Join Date: Oct 2010 Location: Oregon City, Oregon Posts: 10,507	Re: Motor Mount Perches I bought the stock looking ramshorns with the 2-1/2 base. I'm happy with them. Dorman 674-504 Exhaust Manifold Kit https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00068OIXQ..._qmVDwbWDNGWEA My motor is in the rear holes. __________________ I lost my 65 - Found it 25 years later: http://67-72chevytrucks.com/vboard/s...d.php?t=426650 66 C20 Service Truck: http://67-72chevytrucks.com/vboard/s...d.php?t=428035

10-14-2019, 11:24 PM	#9
Captainfab 60-66 Nut Join Date: Mar 2007 Location: Coeur d'Alene, Idaho Posts: 23,246	Re: Motor Mount Perches I would keep the engine in the stock rear location. Those ram horn manifolds hit the firewall because they are designed differently than the factory ram horn manifolds. Those will likely fit with a slight dimple in the firewall. For the engine to sit at the correct angle, the engine mount brackets for the forward location need to be shorter than those used in the rear location. The '67-'72 trucks had the small blocks mounted in the forward location from the factory. Those engine mount brackets are shorter than those used in the rear location. __________________ Power Steering Box Adapter Plates For Sale HERE Power Brake Booster Adapter Brackets For Sale '63-'66 HERE and '67-'72 HERE and '60-'62 HERE and "60-'62 with clutch HERE Rear Disc Brake Brackets For Sale. Impala SS calipers HERE Camaro Calipers HERE D52 Calipers HERE 6 Lug HERE Hydroboost Mounting Plates HERE

10-15-2019, 01:16 PM	#11
The Rocknrod Moderator Join Date: Aug 2011 Location: China Spring, TX Posts: 7,280	Re: Motor Mount Perches Just FYI the Hedman 69230 - http://67-72chevytrucks.com/vboard/s...46&postcount=1 __________________ Master Chief, US Navy, Retired 1964 C10 Step-side Short Bed - In Progress 2009 2500HD Duramax LTZ 1948 GMC Panel 1956 Big Window Stepside 1953 5 Window Chevy Stepside 1932 Coupe New Seat Foam for Bench Seats?

10-15-2019, 06:21 PM	#13
Brad54 Registered User Join Date: Aug 2006 Location: Athens, Georgia Posts: 1,456	Re: Motor Mount Perches Moving the engine forward is going to affect your trans mount, your shifter linkage, Z-bar and clutch linkage if you've got a manual, column-linkage if you've got an automatic, driveshaft length, and distance between the front of the water pump and radiator. __________________ '61 Suburban daily driver: off the road due to 180-pound 8-pt buck! '62 K-10 long-step project '61 C30 Camper, aka "Valdez" There's no cool like Old School

10-27-2019, 04:40 PM	#17
roll_the_dice Registered User Join Date: Mar 2016 Location: Manlius, NY Posts: 1,698	Re: Motor Mount Perches Got the engine moved today....was pretty easy to do. We raised the engine and trans and rolled the chassis instead of trying to actually move the engine...worked like a charm! New installed pics...You can compare the pictures above and how much more room there is. The POL motor perches for 63-67 C-10's with wide frame rails were plug and play...no notching the frame and they kept everything in line. Attached Images __________________ 1965 C10 LWB Stepside 1964 GMC 1 Ton Dually Instagram #notaratrodnotashowtruck



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