'72 C20 Brake Drum binding

[NeilMac]

Driver side rear brake drum will allow truck to roll backward but binds up and doesn't let the truck move forward. Truck has set last several years. much rust coming out when rotating the drum backward but hangs up trying to rotate forward. Cannot get the drum off. Any ideas? Thanks

[kehstr]

this same thing happened on my truck from the park brake cables being rusted. Might jack the back of the truck up, push the parking brake, and if that wheel moves like the brake is not on, the cable is rusted.

In the end, you will need to get the drum off regardless of what the issue is. Can you get to the adjuster?

[custom10nut]

Take your wheel off and get a 5 pound sledge. Spray the center of the hub with your favorite penetrating spray, and Tap/hit the drum around the perimeter a few times to let the spray work. Come back and tap it again while you pull on it with a small pry bar. It come off, you just have to be patient.
Since you’re gonna have it all apart anyway, you might want to replace everything with new (both sides). Put all new components in and you’ll have a trouble free system.
Money spent on the brake system is money well spent, as you can’t stop without them

[NeilMac]

Thanks for the posts! I will try those things this weekend and let you know how it works!...Good idea on replacing all the old and in with the new!

[Ironangel]

Beating on the drum wont necessarily get it off because if a ridge is worn around the perimeter of the drum (and in many cases it is on trucks this old) and will prevent the drum from clearing the brake pads. You'll most likely break the drum itself trying to beat it off the shoes. Often rusty neglected brake shoe adjusters are frozen and not knowing exactly which way to access them as well as knowing which way to release and turn them is often a futile endeavor. You must spray the adjusters with Kroil or a penetrating oil and rotate the star wheel adjusters down while pushing out on the locking plate with a screw driver. If that fails you'll have to cut the two nail head spring retainers that hold the shoes in place located on the backing plate. I use a cutting wheel on a 4" grinder. I also remove the two wheel cylinder bolts and remove the anchor pin nut, 15/16" I think, and pry the whole mess shoes and all off the backing plate...All the components are still available but save the parking brake strut. It's the forked bar between the shoes. One side at a time and when you buy the hardware kits make sure you get a left and a right side complete kits with star adjusters. Do not mix up your hardware because they are side specific...Good Luck