Source for Radiator

[lilpoindexter]

My 1978 250 C10 radiator sprung a leak in one of the tubes...it's been 39 years so I guess I'll let it slide .
I'm going to see if people can still be found to "rod out' brass radiators... if I can't i guess I'll have to buy a new one
I see Classic Parts has brass radiators for 400-500 bucks. i would like to stick a brass one back in since i think they are better. Plastic Aluminum ones cost about 100 bucks...but I'd rather avoid them.

I use my truck for puttering around mostly, but occasionally it works like a truck...maybe 6000 miles a year max. It's been ridiculously reliable in the 7 years I've had it, and I want to keep it that way.

Anybody got any recent words of wisdom about getting a radiator? Sources, brands to get/avoid?

[Nick_R_23]

I wouldn't hesitate to get an aluminum one. I've put one in every square body truck I've owned, including my current build. They work great and I've never had any issues.

[mongocanfly]

Agree with nick..I'm running the luminum/plastic ..got it from oreillys..no issues at all..wouldn't give it a second thought..rodding out a 40yr old radiator probably won't turn out well and around here will cost as much as a new one..

[Jstock85]

Originally Posted by mongocanfly

Agree with nick..I'm running the luminum/plastic ..got it from oreillys..no issues at all..wouldn't give it a second thought..rodding out a 40yr old radiator probably won't turn out well and around here will cost as much as a new one..

I looked at those today online. What engine do you have?

[mongocanfly]

I had a 350..now running a lq9 6.0 on the same radiator.

[Gmc.guy]

I am also looking into a brass replacement for my 74. I have aluminum ones in my other trucks and they do work great. I would like the brass one because 6-cyl doesn't have a fan shroud and you can see it out in the open.

[lilpoindexter]

Originally Posted by Gmc.guy

I am also looking into a brass replacement for my 74. I have aluminum ones in my other trucks and they do work great. I would like the brass one because 6-cyl doesn't have a fan shroud and you can see it out in the open.

Yeah...popping the hood and not seeing a brass radiator doesn't seem right.

[mongocanfly]

You could paint it black..

[homemade87]

I also am not a fan of the alum,plastic . I plan on running another copper,brass from summit if mine goes out . Mine has some age on it as well but still holding strong . Also when replacing be sure to flush the system completely and only fill with distilled water with the anti freeze .

[tucsonjwt]

I no longer like brass/copper radiators. I find that aluminum/plastic are better and last longer. The brass/copper radiators I have installed in the past 10 years all leaked in a year or two after installation. I don't think the brass/copper radiators are as well made as the original radiators. For $100 you can't go wrong with a Spectra aluminum/plastic radiator. You can always keep your existing radiator and have it repaired if you want to retain some originality.

[DieselSJ]

I've never been a fan of the alum/plastic replacements. That being said, previous owner put one in my R30 and it just did fine pulling our 6k lb trailer through the mountains on I-8 going from AZ to San Diego. A/C running whole time and nasty head wind. According to the gauge, it ran the same temp as when I'm unloaded cruising around town (below 210). I can't complain about the performance.

[Gmc.guy]

Yes. I could paint one up. I did buy one about 5 years ago and the cap was straight up, and a few inches tall. Everything fit nice went together good, just a quick trim around the cap on the sheet metal top for the shroud. Then the hood wouldn't shut. Haha.

When I pulled out the old one it was green and seperated like an accordion. I pulled and scrunched it together a few times singing loudly. Some guy in the distance yelled shut the f*** up! True story.

[Gmc.guy]

I wonder if anyone re cores anymore? I have a few old ones saved and was going to look for an ag shop or someplace that does radiator work and maybe get one made. I haven't really looked into it hard yet. Normally I wouldn't care about it but this truck is a no ps, no pb, points, all stock truck and without the shroud and in view I'd like to keep it looking fairly stock.

[Robert Crandall]

39 years on the original radiator. I am envious! I bought a 1978 C20 new. 12 years later the core was leaking. The shop I went to told me it would cost less to buy a new one, so I did. It was brass and looked like the original. At 24 years that one was leaking, so I repeated the buying of another brass one. At 36 years the truck had nearly 400k miles on it, was retired and registered as an antique with only 2k or so miles per year added, so I chose to buy an aluminum one with plastic tanks from my favorite FLAPS. At 41 years, that radiator was leaking. I was not pleased with only 5 years of service. I searched this forum to see if that was normal. I learned that the radiator has a lifetime warranty. Thank you, forum! The counter people at the FLAPS confirmed that, and ordered a replacement for me. The receipt reminded me that I bought one then returned it for another, so the counter people ordered both of them. When they arrived I brought the leaking one in to compare. There are two inches difference in the length of the core between the plastic ends of the two choices. The bottom seat in the truck has position for both lengths. The top piece fits only one of the lengths. So, when you order one you can bring your top piece that holds the radiator in place to make sure it fits.

[rpmerf]

The radiator in my 70 started leaking a few years back. It had 1/89 written on the side. This was around 2017, so I figured that was a good run. I REALLY did not want to go with a plastic / aluminum radiator, but for the cost, I couldn't beat it. Thinking about it, 90%+ of the vehicles I've owned have had aluminum / plastic radiators. Since I've put it in, I've barely thought about it. Certainly keeps it cool.

If you have a radiator cover, you will notice it even less.

[MikeB]

You can get an aluminum radiator at an auto parts store for $150 or less, and easily exchange it if doesn't fit. Got mine at O'Reilly Auto and did have to exchange the first one for another size. There are at least 3 sizes for my 82 C10 and at least two types of mounting brackets. Also, the shrouds are different.

As for aluminum, it's more efficient at dissipating heat, so you can run a smaller lighter radiator and get the same amount of coiling. Heck, I use the smallest radiator meant for a 250-six, and it works great with my 355 and auto trans, even down here in the Texas heat. Five summers now with zero problems. Of course I used a factory shroud which has to help a lot.

[franken]

Why not try the local parts store? Or google...

https://www.google.com/search?client....0.amJnjD32uN4

[DieselSJ]

Originally Posted by MikeB

As for aluminum, it's more efficient at dissipating heat, so you can run a smaller lighter radiator and get the same amount of coiling.

Aluminum is NOT as efficient at transferring heat as copper/brass.

[MikeB]

Originally Posted by DieselSJ

Aluminum is NOT as efficient at transferring heat as copper/brass.

OK, you're correct. However: https://www.dewitts.com/blogs/news/1...rs-cool-better

[DieselSJ]

Originally Posted by MikeB

OK, you're correct. However: https://www.dewitts.com/blogs/news/1...rs-cool-better

Read that a while ago. Twisted information to make it look like aluminum is better. When you compare a furnace-brazed aluminum to a cheaply made copper/brass that has the fins lead-soldered to the tubes then you do get better efficiency out of the aluminum because the lead is a poor conductor. Problem is that most cheap aluminum are not made that way and have very poor conductivity between the fins and tubes.

[MikeB]

Well heck, mine's probably an anomaly then.

Gotta wonder if the conventional copper, brass, and lead radiator that GM used on a 250-six would work OK with my 355 on a 100 degree day. Or, for that matter for the member here (or on the square body forum?) who uses the 250-six aluminum radiator with a blown 383.