Torque specs on lug nuts?

[jeffahart]

I started using a torque wrench on wheels years ago. Just as easy to grab the dial a toque as the impact. But I guess I'm not in that big of a hurry. Plus I usually use a 3/4 breaker because I like leverage, and I'm famous for over tightening.

[davepl]

I'd agree with GMJimmy about greasing the studs, but what about antisieze?

I have used it in the past on my Audi and can't remember if it was called for or it was some innovation I came up with because they were rusting on (winter salt wheels).

[Andy4639]

I use never seize on all wheel studs. Put it on face of washers also if being torqued. This was started by us at work when torquing bolts and studs. I put it on the lugnuts concaved area also.

[davepl]

Big spread between 55 (K10 7/16") and 120 (C2500 9/16"). Pays to look in the book!

[GMJimmy]

Originally Posted by davepl

I'd agree with GMJimmy about greasing the studs, but what about antisieze?

I have used it in the past on my Audi and can't remember if it was called for or it was some innovation I came up with because they were rusting on (winter salt wheels).

Anti seize is basically a grease with tiny metal particles in it. The soft aluminum or copper particles is what keeps the nut or bolt separate from the other. The only reason to put a lubricant on a wheel stud or nut would be if they are seized and a good penetrating oil or diesel fuel is fine for removal but if the studs are rusty they should be replaced. They are cheap and easy to replace. Keeping hub caps covering them or using covered nuts will keep them from corroding. If you absolutely must use a lubricant on wheel studs (and I would only use it on a boat trailer or a trailer that is going to be exposed to harsh conditions) use a graphite or lithium type grease very sparingly and ONLY on the threads. Only problem with this type of grease is it will eventually wash off and need re application. When I owned a boat trailer I used the small plastic slip on covers to keep the crap out and the studs didn't rust. The best method I have found to keep things free is maintenance. When you pull the wheels to check the brakes as you should once a year, you are cleaning the threads in the process.
ANY factory repair manual I have ever read has never suggest to use a lubricant of any kind on wheel studs and nuts.

[GMJimmy]

Here is a little test for the sceptics out there. Put all of your lug nuts on hand tight (no ratchet just the socket in your hand) Now mark the wheel and the rim to indicate their position. Now remove one of them and lubricate it and put it back on and match up the mark. Now set your torque wrench to the correct spec and pay attention to how far in degrees it takes to reach the set torque on each of them. Tighten all the nuts in a star pattern and compare the four non lubed nuts to the lubed one. You must remember that even if the torque is the same the lubricated nut will use more threads to do so and puts more stress on the stud than the other four. If you lubricate a wheel nut it COULD come loose while driving.

[MountainMike6]

Originally Posted by GMJimmy

Putting grease on a wheel stud is a HUGE NONO. Wheel torque is derived not just from lug stretch like a head bolt etc. but also by the friction from the tapered contact of the nut and the wheel. Taking the friction component out of the equation by getting grease on the tapered portion will over torque the lug. To prove a point I greased a lug nut and stud and watched a non believer tighten it with a click type torque wrench and never got it to click (set at 60 lbs.). He snapped all 5 studs and never reached the 60 lb. spec. There are specific styled lug nuts designed without a taper that are for non hub centric applications and these are usually torqued to their own manufactures spec. Problem is most of these chromed lug nuts are made in China and India and do not come with torque values and instructions.

There are things to wave your hand at and say that's BS and isn't necessary and I'll agree to some of those but I don't understand how a guy can ignore the safety aspect of putting wheels on your vehicle and loading your kids in it and driving at 70 mph without paying attention to proper mechanics and do it right. I think the ONLY reason we don't see more accidents is the engineers have over engineered these parts to allow for the uninformed back yard mechanic.

Be safe and do it right.

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[MountainMike6]

Originally Posted by MountainMike6

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I just installed a set of (4) tires on 16" Steel rims on my 1972 C20.
I had 16.5 Rims, but we know how tough those tires are to find so I switched over.
I brought them to 135lbs using the tire warehouse specs, does anyone have the OEM Chevy spec? Also would you know where to get OEM 9/16 lugs, most don't have the same OD.
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[leftybass209]

Glad this got back to the top.

It's always a great policy to use a torque wrench, or at least a good quality torque stick verified with a T.W. There's a big difference between the, "I do it for a living at a high volume shop" impact guys and those that understand their investment and don't want to replace parts prematurely.

[slikside]

Another good reason for torquing them is that on some dark night when you happen to need to change your tire, you'll actually be able to break loose the lug nuts. Impacts can very easily over-torque depending on how much presure their running. Most won't have an impact available to them on that dark night when you have to change the tire...

[MountainMike6]

Would anyone know the correct Torque for a 1972 C20 8 Lug with 9/16 Lugs, I'm using 135lbs now, is that correct? And where a good place would be to find a few replacement lugs?

[garyd1961]

Originally Posted by ETsC10

Yup, I do my '68 C-10 at 70-75#.
Just caught the tire shop today (IN TIME-whew)
beginning to use an impact wrench on my wheels.
Half ton 6-lug rotors are spendy.

Impact wrenches are ok as long as you use the proper torque stick. I torque my 1970 c10 to 80 lbs which is 5 over specs but that is what I was using before I knew the correct torque specs so I kept using it.
If you over tighten lugs it will cause problems later on with stripped lug nuts and studs.
Don't use grease or anti-seize on your studs. It will give you a false reading on the torque and it just isn't needed. I have worked at 2 different dealerships for around 10 years and we never put anything on lug nut or studs. Wal-Mart is the only place I know of that uses anti-seize on lug nuts.

[garyd1961]

Originally Posted by MountainMike6

Would anyone know the correct Torque for a 1972 C20 8 Lug with 9/16 Lugs, I'm using 135lbs now, is that correct? And where a good place would be to find a few replacement lugs?

You are a little over, 90-120#.

[weq92f]

Originally Posted by slikside

Another good reason for torquing them is that on some dark night when you happen to need to change your tire, you'll actually be able to break loose the lug nuts. ...

That is right. A local shop fixed a flat for me for free. Later that week, I needed to remove the same wheel in my shop. It took everything I had to break all 5 lug bolts free with 1/2 inch breaker bar and a cheater at the end of that.

No way anybody would have been able do that on the roadside, at night with regular hand tools.


-klb

[SonomaComa]

I see a lot of chatter but no real answer.
Does anybody know the correct torque spec. for a 69 C20 with 1/2" 20 wheel studs?

[jocko]

I believe your answer is in post 15.

Doesn't anyone read a manual anymore?

If GM says torque it to XX ft-lbs, I don't see why there's such resistance to doing it. No, I didn't torque em as a kid, and no the dudes at the tire shop don't, but then again when was the last time you second guessed your mechanic? I'm guessing about every time you see one.

I've lost a wheel too, and the end result wasn't pretty, I was young and dumb and didn't know to retorque the lugs on a new set of Cragar unilugs, made it about 25 miles before I was doin a little belly surfin. Luckily I sailed off the road to the right, not into oncoming traffic.

[jcwren]

This is from the ST-133 1970 chassis service manual.

I go with 70 foot pounds on the 15" steel wheels.

[69Tom]

That's a good chart right there. Now I just need to find some NOS OEM studs and lug bolts to replace the original ones still on my truck (at least for the rear wheels; upgrading to discs in front).

[71cheyennesuperlongb]

I am another firm believer of NO ANTI-SIEZE.The lug nuts can work loose even if torqued to specs.Ask me how I know.