Probably needing a new t case...any suggestions?

[chevychic]

Hey guys,
I have a 208 in my truck now and suspect it's a goner...to read the details, read this thread:

http://67-72chevytrucks.com/vboard/s....php3?t=107776


Anyways, if anyone has any suggestions for a t case, I might as well go to a better t case if I can.
I'm not too familiar with all the different cases and their features, so any input is appreciated.

Thanks!!

[brian770]

try a 241, had one in my suburban for years with no problems at all, and the burb is heavy.i also had auto lockers and never had any trouble. depends on how hard your going to wheel it. if real hard go with a 205 or a $$$atlas$$$.
brian770

[1FaastC10]

465/205 and dont look back :p

[ALASKA ALUMINUM BEAR]

hi ho chevy chick
the most knowledgable person i have found on this board about tcases-is 1fastc10-jeremy-without a doubt hands down---so always follow hid lead in this area...

and something very little folks know is that the 205-can be made for very lil moneys to go over to a twin shifter tcase,,,,,read the article-i believe captkaos posted on my 86suburban post,,,about twin shift convertions,,,,to cool for very lil monies.....

if it was me and i had that sweet truck of yours-i'd save my pennies and get a atlas-highlander-twin shift all gear drive tcase....while they were spendy when they first came out,,,the price on these has drop a bunch;;;mostly because there making newer ones;;but if you shop around-you can get a twin shift highlander by atlas--in a right hand drop-for your chevy for about 1,580 or close to that....but if you can get hooked up with a 205 cheaper---then go with that.....when it's all said and done you'll find that the prices on either new-are about the same.......get jeremy to give you a lead on were to get a good 205,,,and listen to what he has to say on what were and why.....i am sure he'll help you find one,,,for a good price...good luck young lady

when are you coming north with your faimly
take care
aabear
john

[CEDJUNIOR]

If you want to try and look for a used t-case locally you should check out http://www.car-part.com/ . I bought my 14bolt rear axle from a place listed on there and got a pretty good deal. So its worth a shot to look.

I would suggest you get either a 208 to replace the one you have or a 205 which is a lot stronger that the 208.

NP 208
Type: Chain-driven, aluminum
Low-range ratio: 2.61:1
Weight (lb): 79
Lubricant: ATF
Length (in): 8.0 (GM); 15.5 (AMC)
Width (in.): 20.0
Height (in.): 5.0
Used by: Many full-size vehicles, including Jeep pickups and Wagoneers (which used a left-side front output shaft). A part-time unit that replaced the stronger, heavier NP 203, the NP 208 can't stand up to the horsepower that the NP 205 can, but failure is more often related to low oil level than too much input torque. The 'case utilized left- or right-side front output shafts. All Jeep model 208s have the same spline and output-shaft size and bolt pattern as the Dana 300.

NP 205
Type: Gear-driven, cast-iron
Low-range ratio: 1.98:1
Weight (lb.): 138
Lubricant: 80- to 90-weight
Length (in.): 13.0 (GM); 16.0 (IH)
Width (in.): 18.0
Height (in.): 12.0
Used by: 1971-1980 Broncos, Blazers, and Ramchargers (and corresponding full-size pickups); the NP 205 is still used on heavy Dodges. Some Dodge and IH models were longer, "divorce-mounted'' versions. The NP 205 has left- or right-side front outputs and a center rear output. Caution is advised: there were many varieties in NP 205 shaft splines and so forth. A PTO plate can be found on the left side of the 'case.

[1FaastC10]

Originally Posted by ALASKA ALUMINUM BEAR

the most knowledgable person i have found on this board about tcases-is 1fastc10-jeremy-without a doubt hands down---so always follow hid lead in this area...

talk about a bad piece of advice there! WOW!

for a truck that will be beat profusely, by all means a 205 is the only way to go. 205s are gear driven, and i have yet to see a gear of any kind stretch. the 203, 208, and 241 are chain driven cases, and as evidenced by timing chains, chains do stretch and break over time. chain issues aside, and of the previously mentioned cases would make a good unit for an occasional wheeler/street driver. the 203 is a full time case, so if you would like to use a 2wd range, you'll need to make modifications to it for it to work in 2wd mode. the parts are readily available to do so, so it wouldnt be much of a problem. the 203 and 205s both feature cast iron cases, and a 2:1 low range. the 208 and 241 IIRC both offer a low range lower than the 2:1, i believe they're somewhere around 2.50:1. they also both have aluminum cases, so they will be lighter. i think for Heather's application a 208 or 241 would do just fine, and bolt in with little to no modifications. she doesnt have alot of engine, alot of gear, or massive tires to turn, so either of the two should last just fine.

as for the 465/205 comment, it was meant as a joke. i have jokingly suggested it to Heather a few times. again, for a truck that will be beat all the time, gear driven is the way to go. i actually purchased an auto for my truck in January, and after i got it home i started doing research and quickly decided against it for my application. for hers, an auto with a good cooler will last a long time if properly maintained.

[Pont]

Well said Jeremy and I think you are right to suggest that she stick with a 208 or 241. This would be her "least expensive", less headache way to go.

[LUV2XCLR8]

Off Subject, Hey A.a.b. I Just Wanted To Brag About How Nice It Is
Up There In Alaska, Just Recently Got Back From A Cruise, Yeh I'm
A Tourist, And Man Is It Beutiful Up There, Of Course I Wanted To
Share My Experience With Everyone, So Check Out My Homepage.

[stan79chevy]

i know first hand. and if you put the abuse to it the chain will not only strech it will break. 205 all the way unless you have the big bucks for the atlas.

stan

[ric]

You didn't mention why the roll back driver or his company is not paying for your new T-case. Seems like if they popped this for you they should be covering their "work".

You hear all the stories about T-case's, there's really nothing wrong with a 208 or a 203 or a 205. 205's are way overated and as a result way over priced. Nothing wrong with a 203, they work great, a little heavy. The 208 is basically a 203 in an aluminum case as are nearly all of today T-cases.

I'd put a 208 back in the truck, as mentioned previously this is the most cost effective solution. I'd stick with the automatic, an sm465 is okay, no issues, it will just be different trouble.

208's are all over the place and usually fairly cheap. I just sold two and two sm465's for $150. All four worked and were in good shape. No real demand for used 203's or 208's around here so they are cheap, bet it's the same where you live and the prices are probably about the same.

[Devil'S Ride]

Hey Heather!

Long time no talk. Sorry to hear about your troubles, but I understand completely! If it was me, I would go ahead and get yourself another 208 TC for now. I know the trails an mud you run an it shouldnt be any problem for now to just replace what you have.

In the future, I may have a TH350 and built 203 combo with a parttime kit for sale, and i could possibly work something out with you if you are interested!

1Faast C10- How much do you want for the 465/205 setup and do you have all the linkages an such to go with? (Zbar, an rods, clutch pedal....etc)

Good luck to you heather! an message me if I can help out some!

[1FaastC10]

Originally Posted by Devil'S Ride

1Faast C10- How much do you want for the 465/205 setup and do you have all the linkages an such to go with? (Zbar, an rods, clutch pedal....etc)

i'm asking 300.00 and shipping for it. i bought it with a parts truck, and the clutch linkage itself (the part that goes through the floor and the z-bar were not installed, but in the truck) AFAIK its all there. i have the clutch pedal assembly as well. should be everything you need to convert an automatic truck to manual.

[chevychic]

roll back driver...I've never heard that term...who would you be referring to?

What screw ups could have happened at the shop that would've caused the transfer case to fail?
I've always kept it full of fluid and even checked the fluid level before it went into the tranny shop the first time.

It is confirmed that it's for sure my transfer case, and I'll know more tomorrow as to what exactly is broken and what it's going to cost to fix/rebuild this case.
I'll probably stick with this one I have.

So it seems like my truck is working it's way back...first tranny, then t-case...and I'm just wondering how long until I lose the rear diff...that's the one I wanted to go in the first place so I had an excuse to go to a 14 bolt. Oh well...I'm sure it's day will come. I just hope it waits until I have more $$

Hey Zak...I can't believe you're selling your truck!! We didn't even get to go wheelin'!!
I understand though....after a good education, you'll have more means to buy another and build it up as good or better than your current ride.
Thanks for your offer to help...if I run into a need, I'll be sure to drop you a msg

[ric]

Your truck is sitting on a roll back style tow truck in the pic included in the rant you referenced at the top of this thread. Seemed like in that story you mentioned the rollback driver took off while your truck was still attached and the T-case was engaged. If that is in fact what did occur I think you could easily make the case the driver of that unit is responsible for the damage to your T-case.

[Devil'S Ride]

Heather....the truck is for sale, sadly...but I havent gotten any offers I liked. I had a possible trade up, but the guy backed out on me. If I dont sell it by the end of the summer, its going under the knife, getting 52" front springs, 6" lift in the rear, hack an slash the fenders to fit 37" tires front an rear winches and if possible, a full exocage. Right now since school just ended I am so far beyond broke its not even funny. We will for sure be doing a lot of wheeling next year, at least thats the hope so I will be intouch when I get back down to that area so that we can go out an play in the mud sometime. In the meantime, good luck with your troubles!

IFaastC10- If you arent in a hurry to get rid of it, an if it is in good shape, I will be interested in it after I can make a few dollars this summer. As long as all the gears are in good shape an it should have an NP205 attached correct? If its useable behind a 500 horse engine an all I have to do is drop it in, then I will be intouch once I figure finances out!

[chevychic]

Originally Posted by ric

Your truck is sitting on a roll back style tow truck in the pic included in the rant you referenced at the top of this thread. Seemed like in that story you mentioned the rollback driver took off while your truck was still attached and the T-case was engaged. If that is in fact what did occur I think you could easily make the case the driver of that unit is responsible for the damage to your T-case.

I'm not sure how you got that the driver took off while my truck was still attached. If that were the case, my post would read more like, "I have a lawsuit against some ID10T".
If you read the thread again, you'll see where I said that my truck's wheels were resting against the sled while it was in park, so the sled was keeping it from rolling. When the tow truck driver started to pull the sled back onto his truck, thus moving the sled away from my wheels, my truck no longer had anything holding it in place and started rolling even though it was in park.

The driver did nothing wrong and seemed pretty competent even though his english skills were lacking.

Zak: Be sure to post up some pics as you start hacking away!!