New engine build - 1st startup

[elorenzof]

I am ready to start this engine for the first time.

This is my first time doing this so if anyone can help me with my butterflies in my belly that would be nice! I am 99% sure i have the TDC on cylinder # 1 and distributor clocked correctly. This engine has been rebuilt for about 9 months sitting around. Do i need to pull the distributor and do the oil pump priming tool? Another thing, the exhaust kit i ordered from LMC does not fit my k10 due to the transfer case. So all i have is the exhaust manifolds no exhaust. would this be a problem? After i get it running i will have it towed to the muffler shop and have them deal with the exhaust. As for the timing everyone is different (actuall degrees to set it at) all i know is the basics.

Any suggestions please chime in i sound like a newbie because i am.

[wpavlis]

Definitely prime the engine oil. I was amazed how long it took. Take your valve covers off and prime until you have oil coming out of every single rocker arm. When using a drill it is low enough pressure that the oil won't spray out or anything. You can also tell by looking at the #1 cylinder pushrods if you are on compression stroke or not.

I started mine and broke it in with just the long tune headers. Do you have the stock manifold? Someone else could chime in on that. I would just be afraid of where the exhaust fumes would go. A fan could probably address that.

Any pictures of the new motor?

[68bbc/20]

i would prime it! the exhaust shouldn't hurt anything for getting it started and idleing, but won't take long to heat up the frame, fuel lines, wiring and starter, etc. i wouldn't let it run very long. a couple short pipes pointed own and back would help.

[Willys_MB]

Originally Posted by wpavlis

Definitely prime the engine oil. I was amazed how long it took. Take your valve covers off and prime until you have oil coming out of every single rocker arm. When using a drill it is low enough pressure that the oil won't spray out or anything. You can also tell by looking at the #1 cylinder pushrods if you are on compression stroke or not.

This is good advice, I did it and had no issues.

I just went through this. I broke it in without exhaust on. You absolutely have to have your manifolds on (people worry about warping the heads), but without exhaust your only worries should be 1) the noise, 2) the smell, and 3) the heat. It cooked the label off of my oil filter (2WD manifolds point to the back of the engine compartment) and fried my bump starter connector, but otherwise no issues. I then drove it to my exhaust shop (less than a half mile from my house) without issue.

It helps to have a tach/dwell meter since your truck probably doesn't have a tach for the break-in procedure. Do a search on the forums here for the break-in procedure. I added Lucas Oil Zinc Additive (there are varying opinions on using the additive vs. the more expensive premixed break-in oils). I followed the cam break-in procedure and had no issues at all. I'm a beginner at this as well, just go slow, double check everything, and you'll do just fine!

[geezer#99]

I use my compression tester to be sure it’s on tdc compression.
Then I line up the timing tab/balancer.
Point the rotor at #1 and advance the timing about 1/2 inch. I use the barb on the vac pot to measure.
Open the throttle 2 turns on the idle screw.
Try to prime the fuel bowl. Some gas down the centre vent on a quadrajet or thru the metering rods on an eddy works.
Leave the distributor light tight. Easy to move but not too loose.
Make sure it’s clear in front of the rad. Use a big house fan for forced cooling.
You need it to fire right away and run at 2000 rpm for twenty minutes.
You may have leaks. Minor ones on hoses keep a screwdriver handy.
Minor leaks ignore. Fix better later.
Major ones like oil you’ll need to shut it down.
Once it’s running you can adjust the timing a bit. Go slowly. You don’t want to kill it.
Vary the rpm. Go from 2000 down to 1500 and back again.
Hope this helps.

[elorenzof]

Originally Posted by wpavlis

Definitely prime the engine oil. I was amazed how long it took. Take your valve covers off and prime until you have oil coming out of every single rocker arm. When using a drill it is low enough pressure that the oil won't spray out or anything. You can also tell by looking at the #1 cylinder pushrods if you are on compression stroke or not.

I started mine and broke it in with just the long tune headers. Do you have the stock manifold? Someone else could chime in on that. I would just be afraid of where the exhaust fumes would go. A fan could probably address that.

Any pictures of the new motor?

i will prime the engine per your suggestion. I have the oil pump priming tool i bought it today. Unfortunately i will have to pull the distributor but that shouldnt be too big of a deal. I will take off the driver side valve cover, it should be easier as i have the ac compressor mounted on the pass side and it's gonna be too tough to move it w/o a ton of effort. Moving the alternator is way easier! this way i can see the oil coming up like you suggested. looks like i got a little ahead of myself i shouldnt of put this stuff on.

the pic is from before i had the inner fenders on and such.

[elorenzof]

Originally Posted by 68bbc/20

i would prime it! the exhaust shouldn't hurt anything for getting it started and idleing, but won't take long to heat up the frame, fuel lines, wiring and starter, etc. i wouldn't let it run very long. a couple short pipes pointed own and back would help.

the exhaust manifolds are stock ram horn style but they point straight down no angled back. i like your suggestion about getting some short pipes on there to help with the heat around the wires, etc.. thank you.

[elorenzof]

Originally Posted by Willys_MB

This is good advice, I did it and had no issues.

I just went through this. I broke it in without exhaust on. You absolutely have to have your manifolds on (people worry about warping the heads), but without exhaust your only worries should be 1) the noise, 2) the smell, and 3) the heat. It cooked the label off of my oil filter (2WD manifolds point to the back of the engine compartment) and fried my bump starter connector, but otherwise no issues. I then drove it to my exhaust shop (less than a half mile from my house) without issue.

It helps to have a tach/dwell meter since your truck probably doesn't have a tach for the break-in procedure. Do a search on the forums here for the break-in procedure. I added Lucas Oil Zinc Additive (there are varying opinions on using the additive vs. the more expensive premixed break-in oils). I followed the cam break-in procedure and had no issues at all. I'm a beginner at this as well, just go slow, double check everything, and you'll do just fine!

Do you think i need the break in oil? lucas has this with zinc in it already. (see Pic) I'll probably just get the additive like you suggested. thank you.

[elorenzof]

Originally Posted by geezer#99

I use my compression tester to be sure it’s on tdc compression.
Then I line up the timing tab/balancer.
Point the rotor at #1 and advance the timing about 1/2 inch. I use the barb on the vac pot to measure.
Open the throttle 2 turns on the idle screw.
Try to prime the fuel bowl. Some gas down the centre vent on a quadrajet or thru the metering rods on an eddy works.
Leave the distributor light tight. Easy to move but not too loose.
Make sure it’s clear in front of the rad. Use a big house fan for forced cooling.
You need it to fire right away and run at 2000 rpm for twenty minutes.
You may have leaks. Minor ones on hoses keep a screwdriver handy.
Minor leaks ignore. Fix better later.
Major ones like oil you’ll need to shut it down.
Once it’s running you can adjust the timing a bit. Go slowly. You don’t want to kill it.
Vary the rpm. Go from 2000 down to 1500 and back again.
Hope this helps.

thank you sir i will use all your suggestions except for the compression tester thing as i don't have one.

[bris-k20]

I feel ya on the butterflies! I just got my rebuild broke in three weeks ago. I used the Lucas zinc additive, and just oreillys house brand oil. Some may disagree but that’s what My dad did when I was younger and never had any issues, just so long you have the zinc additive. Mine also only had shorty headers for break-in, we were in a 40x60 shop with doors open, but you and surrounding neighbors will know it’s running. And as above keep your dizzy snug but still able to adjust. We periodically had to adjust it(touch too loose so it kept vibrating around).and if your gonna have the valve covers off, may as well check and make sure your on the right stroke, just so you can be 100%, not just 99%. But I didn’t have any issues with the heat melting or heating things up. But we had a good breeze blowing through and it was about 35° outside. We had minor leaks that we fixed later. And I did the same as far as exhaust, trailered it to have a shop do it. They can do a nice clean job getting around the t-case on the passenger side. Good luck!!

[Steeveedee]

Once you get it running you want to keep it from going too lean when running at 2000 RPM. Dial the choke plate shut just enough to increase the idle speed. It doesn't take much. Depending on your carb jetting, you may not need to do this. It's easy to check. Cruise speed like that with no load can cause heating problems if it is too lean.

[weim55]

As someone who has rebuilt and fired well over 100 new engines I strongly suggest you get the exhaust system taken care of before you fire the engine for the first time. The unmuffled exhaust is so loud you will not be able to hear if there are any issues that create noise upon start up. It’s especially important to be able to shut it down if you hear a concerning noise. Since this is your first new motor rodeo seriously consider it.

Steve weim55 Colorado

[tj1970cst]

Originally Posted by weim55

As someone who has rebuilt and fired well over 100 new engines I strongly suggest you get the exhaust system taken care of before you fire the engine for the first time. The unmuffled exhaust is so loud you will not be able to hear if there are any issues that create noise upon start up. It’s especially important to be able to shut it down if you hear a concerning noise. Since this is your first new motor rodeo seriously consider it.

Steve weim55 Colorado

I haven't done 100, but I have done several. I agree with Steve. If you are going to tow it anyhow, the only difference is it will take 2 or 3 fellas to push it up onto their lift at the shop. Then tow home and crank up.

[saxart]

Originally Posted by tj1970cst

I haven't done 100, but I have done several. I agree with Steve. If you are going to tow it anyhow, the only difference is it will take 2 or 3 fellas to push it up onto their lift at the shop. Then tow home and crank up.

If you don't do this, there are two words that come to mind:

EAR PLUGS!!

[randy500]

I agree, Put exhaust on it first. The truck is useless without exhaust, just do it now.

Coolant
fill radiator with heater hose at intake manifold removed, fill until coolant comes out of the fitting, install hose and continue filling radiator. Filling this wya is the only way to ensure the block is full of water, it will overheat if the block isn't full of water. A hole drilled in the thermostat does the same thing but you wont have proof the block is full of coolant.

[randy500]

Oil priming,
Definitely do it and look for leaks, ive left the oil pressure line off more than once.

Timing, 2 ways
1. Turn the engine over by hand, plug out to make it easier, watch the intake valve on number one close, continue turning to 15 degrees before tdc.
Or
2. Hold your finger in the number 1 plug hole while someone bumps the starter, when you feel pressure, stop bumping with starter and hand turn to 15 degrees before tdc.

Now check that rotor points to number 1 plug wire.

With number one plug out and grounded
Turn ignition on
Rotate distributor clockwise an inch or so
Slowly rotate distributor counter clockwise till plug fires, repeat a couple of times to find the exact firing point.
Tighten down distributor.

Now you know for sure its timed and wired properly.

[randy500]

Prime the fuel line to the pump by pressurizing the fuel tank, i use an air blow gun closing off most of the neck with my hand. It will siphon feed from tank to fuel pump, put a hose on the hard line and into a pail to catch the fuel.
Install the primed line onto the fuel pump.

Prime the carb through the vent, quadrajet and holley the vent is obvious, edelbrocks not a obvious, fill till it overflows the vent, the excess fuel should prime the manifold. If the carb bowl the accelerator pump should squirt.

I use a kitchen condiment squirt bottle to prime the carb and manifold, available at walmart for about a dollar.

[ohboy321]

Originally Posted by elorenzof

Another thing, the exhaust kit i ordered from LMC does not fit my k10 due to the transfer case.

I believe I've read in here that LMC exhaust systems are manufactured by Heartthrob. If so, when I installed a Heartthrob system in my K10 I had to shorten the passenger side down tube about 2 inches to be able to clear the transfer case. I shortened it 1" at a time until it fit.

This was using the stock ram horn with heat riser. Hope this helps.

[elorenzof]

thank you everyone for your replies! you are all very helpful. Great suggestions and i hope to get it cranked up this coming week! Again, thank you.

[Willys_MB]

Originally Posted by elorenzof

Do you think i need the break in oil? lucas has this with zinc in it already. (see Pic) I'll probably just get the additive like you suggested. thank you.

I just use the additive, but everyone has differing opinions. I put the additive in so that the oil I put in after that pushes it down into the oil pan. It's up to you, ultimately. The most important part if you put in a new cam is to make sure you use a zinc oil (or additive) to properly break it in.

[elorenzof]

Per your help and advice I finally got around this Saturday to pulling the distributor and priming the oil pump with my oil pump tool and my drill. Now I had my neighbor "bump" the key to get till I got to the compression stroke on # 1. (Air pushing out). Getting ready to drop the dist back in and my question is this. (See pic) my timing mark is not dead on the zero on the timing tab. Do I drop the dist in AND THEN turn the crank clockwise to zero? Or can I just turn the crank counter clockwise to line up the timing mark and tab and then drop the dist into the engine with the rotor pointing to number one? Or am I close enough?

[Steeveedee]

Just drop the distributor in, it's close enough. You may have to use a screwdriver to rotate the oil pump drive do that the distributor drops in. Make sure that the vacuum advance canister isn't too close to the intake manifold so that you have room to adjust the timing once you get it running.

[jocko]

Edited this post - my original description was more appropriate if you had already installed the distributor. Here's how I'd do it since you haven't yet installed the distributor:
1) install distrib cap
2) mark centerline of #1 plug wire tower on the distrib body with a felt tip pen or something
3) remove cap
4) install distributor (remembering that the rotor rotates relative to the distrib body as it engages the cam gear - might have to attempt a few times, no big deal)
a) as you're doing it, ensure the rotor tip aligns approximately just slightly past the mark you made (in the direction of rotation of the rotor tip).
b) remember, once the distributor is in, you can rotate the body a little bit to align the mark where you want it relative to the rotor tip - and keep in mind Steeveedee's note about leaving sufficient wiggle room for vac advance orientation on the passenger side of the engine.
5) install cap
6) cleared for launch! (have a timing light already hooked up, WIRES OUT OF THE WAY OF THE FAN, and be ready to adjust initial timing to desired setting)

If in your picture above, your timing mark was at, for example, 10 deg BTDC, then you'd want to install the distributor so that the rotor tip aligned even with the mark you made. But since your crank timing mark is showing a little ATDC, this is why I say to point the rotor tip slightly past the center of the #1 plug tower, i.e. ignition would have "just" occurred in the picture you have shown. There's no significance of the mark being at exactly zero or at initial timing setting at first firing, all that matters is relative timing.

[Rick Bollinger]

Just make sure that the distributor is all the way down. It will start if not but it will have no oil pressure.