Charging issues.

[Tdbengry]

I’ve asked this before and didn’t quite get a clear answer, so here we go again I installed and wired a race mate water pump alternator combo in my truck I unplugged the external Voltage regulator as the new one has an exciter. After unplugging the external voltage regulator my battery dies in about a week seeming like there is a parasitic draw I’m curious If I can do the voltage regulator delete and re-wire for the internally regulated alternator and have it work the same on my combo alternator.

[Sheepdip]

How many amp's is the alternator? I'm not familiar with the combo you have but a "Race" car only needs ignition and basics like a fuel pump. A lot of people experience the dying battery whose alternator is too small and slowly depletes the battery because it does not completely recharge it.

[Tdbengry]

It’s a 15 amp high energy is what “racemate” is advertising.

[Ol Blue K20]

15 amps isn't enough for a street driven vehicle. Just my .02

[Tdbengry]

It’s advertised at 15 Amps hi Energy

[Ol Blue K20]

My K20 came new with 61 amp. I don't think 15 amp is enough to run a street vehicle. I believe your set up is for racing use. High energy doesn't mean anything, 15 amps is fifteen amps. It's not enough for headlights,turn signals etc.....

[Killer Bee]

first of all, not sure why or how you were advised to install this, but it's a terrible idea for a street vehicle..

there's a reason this isn't sold at every autoparts store in the country, besides the cost I imagine is outrageous..

if you're insistent on keeping it, best advice for wiring would probably come from the manufacturer..

but as stated above, a 15a peak output alternator is woefully inadequate for a street driven vehicle..

you're destined for nothing but trouble with this setup, no matter how many threads you start about it..

my professional advice would be to remove it and replace with factory rated or greater output alternator..

when you call about wiring advice, ask them what they think about using it for your application..

good luck!

http://www.racemate.com/contact.html

RACEMATE

1725 Burton St.
San Diego CA 92111

800 671-1711

858 256-9194 racemate@cox.net

[rpmerf]

I am not familiar with this product, but here is where I would start.

When you say it dies in a week, is that with being driven or without being driven?

At this point, the factory voltage regulator and generator wires are doing nothing. They are not helping or hurting anything from sitting there disconnected.

I would be looking at that exciter to see if it is pulling power when the ignition is off. Could do a parasitic drain test with a amp meter. Should be below 0.050 amps (50 ma) with the ignition off. Really, on these trucks it should be more like 0.000 with the ignition off, unless you got a newer radio in there.

Check the voltage with the engine running. Is it enough for the battery to charge? I would consider 13.5V a minimum.

A quick look on their website, I do not see any install instructions. Do you have any you can post here?

My opinion -
This seems like a lot of time / money / work to go through for the few HP you gain from not having a separate alternator. I imagine this effort would be better spent elsewhere and leave a tried and true, reliable as can be factory water pump and 12SI alternator.

[VetteVet]

Why did you not get an internally regulated alternator as so many on the forum have done. The conversion is simple. I have detailed how to do it so many times I can tell you in my sleep how to do it.

You need to measure the voltage on the battery with the engine running and you should see 14.5 volts. As stated by the others, 15 amps is not enough to charge the battery and run the accessories on the truck. If you have the original alternator then you should buy a 12SI internally regulated alternator and wire it like the following.

Locate the brown wire in the old regulator plug and extend it to the new alternator to terminal 1. Then extend the red wire in the old plug to the number 2 terminal in the new alternator. Then run your charging wire off the back of the alternator to the main junction in the harness is located. If you have not changed the original wiring the alternator will charge at 14.5 volts and you will get enough amps to charge the battery and run the accessories.


Here is the diagram to show the conversion.






This is how you wire the alternator.






You will need to get this adapter from any of the auto parts stores to connect the alternator. It's about $5.00.




A 10SI alternator will work as well and is wired the same, but the 12SI is a better choice and if you want to go to the newer CS model, it is easy to wire as well but you will need to wire in a larger resistor to protect the alternator diodes.

If you decide to convert, the electrical forum is full of info on the conversions.

[Andy4639]

As I stated in the other post, even the 32 amp isn't gonna keep your battery charged up.

The entire RaceMate is incorporated on the front of the water pump and produces 15 amps, (also available with 22 or 32 amps). RaceMate will maintain peek battery levels for maximum starting power. RaceMate is compatible with all high energy ignition systems.

[HO455]

One piece of information that is missing from their web site is at what RPM their alternator starts charging at and what the amperage to rpm curve is. You alternator may not be charging at idle or maybe it's only delivering 6 amps at that RPM.
As others have stated 15 amps is not enough to keep a daily driver running. With a stock truck your amp draws are like this
Ignition draws about 4 amps
Heater 8 to 10 amps
Wipers 8 to 15 amps
Headlights 10 amps
Turn signals 4 to 6 amps
Radio 2 to 4 amps.
Brake lights 3 to 4 amps
Even with a full 15 amp output from the alternator it doesn't take much for the load to overtake the charging ability of the alternator. If it isn't charging at idle every stop light is a solid drain on the battery. This is one of the problems with the one wire GM alternator set up. Those will not charge below 800 rpm with a 3:1 pulley ratio (with the factory internal voltage regulator)
This style of alternator is designed to keep a short track road race/stock car battery charged during a race, with the caveat that you start the race with a fully charged battery in good condition. It could also be used as a back up on an endurance race vehicle allowing it to limp home if the main charging system failed.