Truck Deiseling Problem/Brake problems... - The 1947 - Present Chevrolet & GMC Truck Message Board Network

jorgensensc · 06-18-2004, 03:17 PM

Hey all,
Any help would be appreciated. To start with my truck brakes started acting up lately. They would slowly go all the way to the floor if I was sitting at a stoplight for any length of time and my brake light would come on (amazing it still works). I have power brakes. Next thing I know my truck wouldn't start, The starter was having a He!! of a time tring to start the truck. I thought it was heat soak, so I bought F$RD remote starter solonoid to install and fix the problem. My idle was also seeming a little low too. Well, I got that (solonoid) installed yesterday and noticed the sticker in the engine compartment that says my idle should be at 600 in drive and 1500 in park. Well I was at 400 idle and 800 park. I bumped up the idle and decided to check the Dizzy. Sure enough it was loose and had walked on me a little. I straightened all of that out, then reset the idle to 600 drive and 1500 park. Suddenly my truck starts fine (timing not being off helps a lot) and I think that all is well. My idle was low and that is why my brakes were slipping, right?

Well the truck runs awesome now, but the brakes are still doing the same thing. I don't have any fluid leaks either. The other problem is now when I turn the truck off, it wants to Diesel a little. I've never had that problem before either. Any ideas? I set the timing by ear, do you think it is off? I turned up the fuel richness just a little (1/4 turn on both sides). I also run 93 octane gas, so that should be O.K. right.

It has an edelbrock 600 electric choke that I have never had a problem with. It's ben on there for about 2 years. This truck is a daily driver and has been extremely reliable for me, and I drive it pretty hard. There are no other problems with it other than that. It doesn't use any oils either.

Any thoughts or suggestions would be greatly appreciated. For some reason I have the hardest time setting up carbs (and yes I know this is one of the easiest carbs to set up.)

Any ideas on what is going out on the brakes? The Master cylinder, proportioning valve, or the booster?

Thanks for all replies,

Shawn

**CPNE** · 06-18-2004, 03:30 PM

my $ is on the master cylinder

OhioDan · 06-18-2004, 04:13 PM

Your master cylider is by-passing internally. Replace it and all will be good in the land of Chevy. As for the dieseling, your idle is set to high. Do you have an idle solenoid on your carb? Unplug it and screw the whole solenoid in to set your idle to it's lowest idle and barely run. Plug it in, and adjust the nut that kicks yer linkage on you carb out to set the idle. Not familiar with Edelbrock carbs, so I hope this helps? Happy motoring.

smokekiki · 06-18-2004, 04:21 PM

I agree on the brakes,and about the idel being to high.Beg,borrow or buy a timeing light.I would bet if You set Your timing,and idel,you will get rid of the dieseling.If you only use a timeing light once in a while,a cheapo will suffice.

**Stocker** · 06-18-2004, 07:20 PM

Ditto what others said. 600 in gear is OK but 800 to 850 is plenty in neutral. Fix that, you'll likely fix the dieseling. If not, a bandaid fix is to simply turn ignition off with tranny in drive.

inline6Bill · 06-18-2004, 07:30 PM

Brake problem - master cylinder leaking internally.

DEFINITELY get a timing light and set that timing right! As for the idle, if you have an idle solenoid, set the idle speed with that, NOT with the idle speed set screw.

As for idle jet setting, set them initially to what the manual says is initial (in unitl lightly seated and back out whatever is specified), then back ONE out until the idle speed increases, then SLOWLY turn back in until the speed slows back down, then do the same to the OTHER side, both jets should be out the same turns from a lightly seated position. A GOOD tune-up style tach/dwell meter is not really necessary, but does come in handy for doing this. Also, a manifold vacuum gauge comes in handy, but is really not necessary.

**Canadian694x4** · 06-18-2004, 07:33 PM

This may be a silly Q, but I'm not an engine guru...What is dieseling? I think I have had a prob with my "Dizzy Walking" too...

**CPNE** · 06-18-2004, 08:28 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Canadian694x4

This may be a silly Q, but I'm not an engine guru...What is dieseling? I think I have had a prob with my "Dizzy Walking" too...

Engine continues to run and sputter to a stop after the key is turned off

Budweis · 06-18-2004, 08:35 PM

idle may be too high but also if too far advanced it can cause it. i agree get a timing light.

**Canadian694x4** · 06-18-2004, 10:56 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by CPNE

Engine continues to run and sputter to a stop after the key is turned off

Thanks CPNE! Sorry for the hi-jack.

jorgensensc · 06-19-2004, 09:37 PM

Thanks for all the great responses! I will definately be setting the timing again. My neighbor just gave me a practically brand new sears timing light today. It's from the early 90's, but will serve the purpose quite well. Where is the idle solenoid? The only screws I can find are the mixture nad the idle screws? There is an electric choke on the side, and it looks adjustable, but I thought that adjusted the choke idle. There is also another screw on the bottom of the driverside linkage, but it seems to adust some type of serrated linkage, (maybe that is the choke adjustment?)
Thanks again for the help.
Shawn

06-18-2004, 03:17 PM	#1
jorgensensc Registered User Join Date: Jul 2003 Location: Cypress, Tx Posts: 4,005	Truck Deiseling Problem/Brake problems... Hey all, Any help would be appreciated. To start with my truck brakes started acting up lately. They would slowly go all the way to the floor if I was sitting at a stoplight for any length of time and my brake light would come on (amazing it still works). I have power brakes. Next thing I know my truck wouldn't start, The starter was having a He!! of a time tring to start the truck. I thought it was heat soak, so I bought F$RD remote starter solonoid to install and fix the problem. My idle was also seeming a little low too. Well, I got that (solonoid) installed yesterday and noticed the sticker in the engine compartment that says my idle should be at 600 in drive and 1500 in park. Well I was at 400 idle and 800 park. I bumped up the idle and decided to check the Dizzy. Sure enough it was loose and had walked on me a little. I straightened all of that out, then reset the idle to 600 drive and 1500 park. Suddenly my truck starts fine (timing not being off helps a lot) and I think that all is well. My idle was low and that is why my brakes were slipping, right? Well the truck runs awesome now, but the brakes are still doing the same thing. I don't have any fluid leaks either. The other problem is now when I turn the truck off, it wants to Diesel a little. I've never had that problem before either. Any ideas? I set the timing by ear, do you think it is off? I turned up the fuel richness just a little (1/4 turn on both sides). I also run 93 octane gas, so that should be O.K. right. It has an edelbrock 600 electric choke that I have never had a problem with. It's ben on there for about 2 years. This truck is a daily driver and has been extremely reliable for me, and I drive it pretty hard. There are no other problems with it other than that. It doesn't use any oils either. Any thoughts or suggestions would be greatly appreciated. For some reason I have the hardest time setting up carbs (and yes I know this is one of the easiest carbs to set up.) Any ideas on what is going out on the brakes? The Master cylinder, proportioning valve, or the booster? Thanks for all replies, Shawn __________________ 1972 C20 Suburban- Big Blue Betty '56 Chevy Bel Air Sedan- Frame up Restoration -What would you attempt to achieve if you knew you could not fail?- -I Refuse To Tiptoe Through Life, Only To Arrive Safely At Death's Door- R.I.P. EAST SIDE LOW LIFE

06-18-2004, 03:30 PM	#2
CPNE Resident Curmudgeon Join Date: Dec 1999 Location: NH Posts: 6,664	my $ is on the master cylinder __________________ Currently on or near the homestead: 67 Chevy SWB 2WD stepside 350/3 on tree (Pat's) 67 GMC SWB 2WD Fleet 402/auto (Brian's under construction) 67 Chevy 3/4 ton 2WD 402/auto (Business Hauler) 67 Chevy 1 ton dually 2WD 396/4 speed (Former business hauler, Needs TLC) 68 Chevy 1/2 ton Suburban 2WD 250 six/3 on tree (Brian's Needs TLC) 70 Chevy 3/4 ton 4WD 350/4 speed (Pat's - Disguised as a 68 GMC) 71 Chevy SWB stepside (Crushed by tree - parts donor) 72 Chevy 3/4 ton 4WD (Parts donor) 72 Chevy 3/4 ton 4WD Suburban (Parts Donor) 72 GMC 3/4 ton 4WD 292 six/4 speed (Mine - Disguised as a 67 GMC) 81 GMC 4WD Dually Dump Body 350/4 speed (Business Hauler) 82 Camaro Z/28 355/Super T-10 (Pat's toy) 93 Caprice 9C1 (Brian's Cop Car) 02 Toyota Camry (Reliable but a souless steel and plastic hulk) 2011 2SS RS Camaro M6 Factory Hurst Shifter Maybe I need to sell some of this crap Yet another Bozo with a sawz-all

06-18-2004, 04:13 PM	#3
OhioDan Registered User Join Date: Apr 2002 Location: New Carlisle, Ohio,USA Posts: 1,404	Your master cylider is by-passing internally. Replace it and all will be good in the land of Chevy. As for the dieseling, your idle is set to high. Do you have an idle solenoid on your carb? Unplug it and screw the whole solenoid in to set your idle to it's lowest idle and barely run. Plug it in, and adjust the nut that kicks yer linkage on you carb out to set the idle. Not familiar with Edelbrock carbs, so I hope this helps? Happy motoring. __________________ LIFE AIN'T EASY WHEN YER FAT AND GREASY! GMC= Got More Class! 1970 GMC LWB, Fleetside, 350/4spd, Flowmaster "40's", 2002 GMC 16" Rallies, cowl hood,and added a bunch of options that weren't there when I started.

06-18-2004, 04:21 PM	#4
smokekiki Mike Join Date: Jan 2003 Location: west chester pa Posts: 2,474	I agree on the brakes,and about the idel being to high.Beg,borrow or buy a timeing light.I would bet if You set Your timing,and idel,you will get rid of the dieseling.If you only use a timeing light once in a while,a cheapo will suffice. __________________ 70'c/10, 71 suburban4x4 402bb, 72suburban 4/6 drop, 72k/5 4x4 blazer 4" lift 35 tires

06-18-2004, 07:20 PM	#5
Stocker 20' Daredevil (Ret) Join Date: May 2003 Location: Jefferson State Posts: 13,594	Ditto what others said. 600 in gear is OK but 800 to 850 is plenty in neutral. Fix that, you'll likely fix the dieseling. If not, a bandaid fix is to simply turn ignition off with tranny in drive. __________________ - Mike - 1972 K20 LWB 350/350/205 RIP El Jay

06-18-2004, 07:30 PM	#6
inline6Bill A classic GM kinda guy Join Date: Mar 2004 Location: Phoenix, Arizona Posts: 296	Brake problem - master cylinder leaking internally. DEFINITELY get a timing light and set that timing right! As for the idle, if you have an idle solenoid, set the idle speed with that, NOT with the idle speed set screw. As for idle jet setting, set them initially to what the manual says is initial (in unitl lightly seated and back out whatever is specified), then back ONE out until the idle speed increases, then SLOWLY turn back in until the speed slows back down, then do the same to the OTHER side, both jets should be out the same turns from a lightly seated position. A GOOD tune-up style tach/dwell meter is not really necessary, but does come in handy for doing this. Also, a manifold vacuum gauge comes in handy, but is really not necessary. __________________ Old school rap music: a dual exhausted GM 6 with no mufflers. "If you can find a better vehicle, buy it" Lee Iacocca, Chrysler commercials of the '80s. "I did. They are called Classic GM pickups !!!"

06-18-2004, 07:33 PM	#7
Canadian694x4 Born To Lose Club Join Date: Feb 2003 Location: Calgary, Alberta/Oxenden, Ontario, Great White North Posts: 13,306	This may be a silly Q, but I'm not an engine guru...What is dieseling? I think I have had a prob with my "Dizzy Walking" too... __________________ Brian Smith - "Born To Lose" 1969 Chevrolet K10 LWB Fleetside - Proud Owner For 20 Yrs - 1 of 208 Built & Sold In Canada! - 283 V8/350TH/NP208, 2" All Spring Lift, 32" Good Year MT/R's. 1972 GMC K2500 Custom LWB Fleetside - Proud Owner For 2 Yrs - 1 of 571 Built & Sold In Canada! - 350 V8/SM465/NP205, 4” Rough Country Lift, 33” Interco TSL Thornbirds 2007.5 GMC Sierra SLE 2500HD 4x4 - Proud Owner For 15 Yrs - 6.6L V8 Duramax Diesel/Allison 1000, 2" Lift, 33" Mickey Thompson MTZ's. 2008 Yamaha Raptor 700r - Proud Owner For 13 Yrs - ITP Mud Lites. 2015 John Deere 1025R - Proud Owner For 6 Yrs - 24HP Diesel/H120/54D/260B/SB1154.

06-18-2004, 08:35 PM	#9
Budweis Geared for Collision Join Date: Jan 2004 Location: St. Louis, Mo. Posts: 683	idle may be too high but also if too far advanced it can cause it. i agree get a timing light. __________________ MEMBER OF THE 4 WHEEL DISK BRAKE CLUB 1970 C/K20 3/4 Ton 1996 Collectors Edition Corvette 1977 Corvette Coupe

06-19-2004, 09:37 PM	#11
jorgensensc Registered User Join Date: Jul 2003 Location: Cypress, Tx Posts: 4,005	Thanks for all the great responses! I will definately be setting the timing again. My neighbor just gave me a practically brand new sears timing light today. It's from the early 90's, but will serve the purpose quite well. Where is the idle solenoid? The only screws I can find are the mixture nad the idle screws? There is an electric choke on the side, and it looks adjustable, but I thought that adjusted the choke idle. There is also another screw on the bottom of the driverside linkage, but it seems to adust some type of serrated linkage, (maybe that is the choke adjustment?) Thanks again for the help. Shawn __________________ 1972 C20 Suburban- Big Blue Betty '56 Chevy Bel Air Sedan- Frame up Restoration -What would you attempt to achieve if you knew you could not fail?- -I Refuse To Tiptoe Through Life, Only To Arrive Safely At Death's Door- R.I.P. EAST SIDE LOW LIFE



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