SC WTB door hinge shims

[HIGHWAY BY THE SEA]

OK gentlemen, I need some special assistance with this. My 67 GMC has newly rebuilt door hinges, but the driver door has a mysterious problem. When you tighten the driver door hinge bolts, the door creeps closer to the front of the truck toward the left front fender no matter how hard you try to stop it from doing so. It stays right up on the fender edge causing it to be impossible to open the door. So I need door hinge shims to create the necessary distance between my driver door and the left front fender. Does anyone on here make or have any? I failed to locate any on the internet.

[kidatheart]

Can you loosen the hinge-to-post bolts and slide the hinge back?

[HIGHWAY BY THE SEA]

Originally Posted by kidatheart

Can you loosen the hinge-to-post bolts and slide the hinge back?

Tried that. It creeps forward every time.

[Getter-Done]

So you need a shim or ( assortment of) shims between the door hinge and the A-pillar for Upper and lower hinge?











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[HIGHWAY BY THE SEA]

Yes

Originally Posted by Getter-Done

So you need a shim or ( assortment of) shims between the door hinge and the A-pillar for Upper and lower hinge?











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[Getter-Done]

Shims could be made for any of the 4 mounting pads of the door hinges.

Looking at the hinges I have / If I made a shim I would want a Full contact shim.
Not a shim that would slip in without removing the bolts.
You would just create more problems later.(Cracks , rust and pressure points etc.).

The 4 mounting surfaces with shims added below:

1-Top hinge a-pillar post (which would bring the top of the door out-board)

2-Top hinge Door flange (Door away from fender)

3-Bottom hinge a-pillar post (which would bring the bottom of the door out-board)

4-Bottom hinge Door flange ( which would bring the door away from the fender)

If shims are installed on the bottom hinge /
This could be done easier than on the top hinge.

The top hinge has the catch link to keep it open.
With a full contact shim
This would require removing the hinge/door each time until you got the correct result you are looking for.

High Quality shim stock is (Pricey).

If you think you have went the distance on all the adjustment of the slots in the hinges.
This is your next best option.

So with the info above.
What do you think the thickness of your shim needs to be?

If your shim needs to be about a 1/4 inch (0.125)
That would take Qty. 4 shims per location of change of (0.030) which would be (0.120)

If less gap smaller shims of coarse.

Which shims do you need # number 1-4?
What thickness?
And How many?














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[HIGHWAY BY THE SEA]

I need these two. The door is way too close to the fender. PITA!!!

2-Top hinge Door flange (Door away from fender)

4-Bottom hinge Door flange ( which would bring the door away from the fender)

Originally Posted by Getter-Done

Shims could be made for any of the 4 mounting pads of the door hinges.

Looking at the hinges I have / If I made a shim I would want a Full contact shim.
Not a shim that would slip in without removing the bolts.
You would just create more problems later.(Cracks , rust and pressure points etc.).

The 4 mounting surfaces with shims added below:

1-Top hinge a-pillar post (which would bring the top of the door out-board)

2-Top hinge Door flange (Door away from fender)

3-Bottom hinge a-pillar post (which would bring the bottom of the door out-board)

4-Bottom hinge Door flange ( which would bring the door away from the fender)

If shims are installed on the bottom hinge /
This could be done easier than on the top hinge.

The top hinge has the catch link to keep it open.
With a full contact shim
This would require removing the hinge/door each time until you got the correct result you are looking for.

High Quality shim stock is (Pricey).

If you think you have went the distance on all the adjustment of the slots in the hinges.
This is your next best option.

So with the info above.
What do you think the thickness of your shim needs to be?

If your shim needs to be about a 1/4 inch (0.125)
That would take Qty. 4 shims per location of change of (0.030) which would be (0.120)

If less gap smaller shims of coarse.

Which shims do you need # number 1-4?
What thickness?
And How many?














.

[Getter-Done]

Do you know how thick of a shim you want?

I will take some pictures and post in a few.
For idea's So you can determine thickness of shim you would want.









.

[HIGHWAY BY THE SEA]

Here is a picture of the measurement of the door gap, and one of where the fender meets that door. It appears maybe a shim between 1/8 and 1/4 inch will close the gap I guess...

Originally Posted by Getter-Done

Do you know how thick of a shim you want?

I will take some pictures and post in a few.
For idea's So you can determine thickness of shim you would want.









.

[randy500]

I never ever, ever, ever, ever fit a door with the fender installed.
Did i say you should never try fitting a door with the fender installed?
What does the rear gap look like at the cab to door?

Body fitting procedure.
Door to rear of cab, while minding the rocker panel gap. ignore the window frame.
If necessary, Beat the window frame around to fit the upper cab opening
Fit fender to door. If the gap is tight at the top then the cab mounts have sagged, shim or correct the cab mounts. The fender resting at the front should align fairly well top to bottom, with the door without force.

Its almost never necessary but you can shim under the hinge at the door or the cab. I only do this after elongating the hinge holes, which is almost never necessary.

These are standard body shims in 2 thicknesses. I can send what you see for shipping cost which is about $8.

[randy500]

And remove the door latch or the latch plate while fitting the door so temporary latch mis adjustment doesn't influence the door alignment procedure.

[HIGHWAY BY THE SEA]

I installed the door with the new hinges without the fender on there. I had done this before with the old saggy hinges with the same result. If you tighten the hinge bolts the door inexplicably moves forward to where it makes it impossible to put the fender on so that the fender and door do not touch. Once I put on the door then try to put on the fender afterward they are too close.
There is clearly some issue here.

[Getter-Done]

Ok I will get the pictures I have.
In order to send a post.









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[HIGHWAY BY THE SEA]

Originally Posted by Getter-Done

Ok I will get the pictures I have.
In order to send a post.











.

Thanks!
Here is a BEFORE picture of the old door and old fender as it was when I bought the truck. As you can see the door and fender scraped each other even back then.

[Getter-Done]

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[Getter-Done]

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[Getter-Done]

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[Getter-Done]

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[Getter-Done]

You can use washers to determine the thickness of shim that you want.
A solid shim could be made.
You also need to measure the gap in the B-pillar /(Back of the door).
If you move it back /do you have the room to make the gap Equal .











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[Grumpy old man]

it's not a door shim problem it's a body mount problem , Adding door jam shims may band aid the issue but it's not the right way to fix it .

[my kids toy]

How is the front tip of the fender and hood alignment ? and the hood to cowl alignment ? does it show the fender needs to go forward to match the hood ?
Original truck pic shows it was hit on the corner, maybe the whole side is pushed back and core support has moved as well, and frame is bent.
Measure from firewall to core support on both sides to see if it is moved back.