CA 1967 C20 with LT1 Swap and More

[Sheetaki]

It's time to sell my truck. She runs great and is a blast to drive, but I'm moving on. Here's the specs:
1967 Chevrolet C20 3/4-ton pickup.
Engine is a 1995 LT1 out of a Camaro with:
-Rebuilt bottom end as of 300 miles ago, new gaskets all around.
-Ported and Polished Heads and intake. Heads have about 1500 miles on them. (The intake says #666, it was originally intended for our #666 24 Hours of Lemons car, which is themed accordingly. The truck comes with a spare intake manifold if you don't care for that.)
-Comp Camshaft 269 int./276 exh. (07-502-8)
-Crane Gold Roller Rockers 1.6 ratio (10758-16)
-Crane Dual Valve springs and retainers (10308-1)
-MSD Ignition Coil
-Hedman Mid-tube headers to side pipes, with X-pipe (has bung for Wideband O2 Sensor)
-Original C20 radiator with LT1 dual electric fan assembly, controlled by the PCM, keeps perfectly cool.

Fuel system is:
-30 Gallon Fuel Injected tank out of a 1993 Chevy Blazer. Sits where the spare used to.
-New hard-lines with all AN fittings and teflon SS braided hose.
-Aeromotive A1000 Fuel pressure regulator
-33# injectors
-Blazer fuel sender works really well with the OEM fuel gauge!

Transmission is the original Muncie SM420 4-speed. It was rebuilt when I installed the engine. I also did the clutch and flywheel at the time, the flywheel is out of a 1993 Blazer, but mates perfectly to the new 1967 C20 Clutch.

Front Crossmember was replaced 1500 miles ago with a '74 one to add power disc brakes. Control arms were new Moog, along with springs, Tie rods, center link, steering box, pitman, idler arm, Rotors, bearings, calipers, pads, etc. I added the front sway-bar from this generation as well, as the truck didn't come with one.

Rear suspension is the control arm/coils. I replaced the coils with HD ones about 1000 miles ago. Rear diff is an Eaton HO52 4.56. Shocks are KYB Gas-a-just all around, about 4000miles old.

Interior in pretty good shape, bench has no tears, but I keep a cover on it as vinyl isn't great in hotter weather. Heater works well, I replaced the core and fan with the engine. Dash pad is in great shape too.

The body has minimal rust, and has some patch spots from the previous owner. I replaced the bed with a '71, as the original bed was rotted out. Bed has minor damage on right rear. Tailgate says GMC, original must have been replaced by the PO. It clearly could use a paint job.

Tires have 1000 miles on them if that, wheels are off a Dodge 3/4-ton. Spare tire is the original size, and has zero miles on it. It's mounted in the bed using a LMC truck kit and a busted GM7.5" ring gear.

The truck needs someone who doesn't mind tinkering with the little bits and pieces to finish it off. It drives well, but it's still an old truck. It also comes with a bunch of spare parts.

I apologize for some of the photos being blurry, my phone's camera doesn't always want to focus lately. I also have no idea why the site is uploading the interior shot upside down.

Looking for $7500 OBO.

[Sheetaki]

If anyone has any feedback, I'd appreciate it. I know with the virus now probably isn't a great time to sell a truck, but I'm getting fewer bites than I figured.

[67mater]

I'd love to have that truck around here. Those wheels don't do it for me, got any other around you could swap? some shots of the underside to show that lack of rust would be well worth it too. $.02 Good luck!

[Sheetaki]

That's fair. I'm not in love with the wheels, but they were cheap. I think they'd be better in black, so I may paint them to see if that helps. I always thought a neat project would be to put chevy center caps in the hubcaps, but the rear end needs bigger lugs for the caps to fit on.

I've attached a pic of the gas tank, the front suspension, and the driver's header. '67 frame rails are thicker near the engine so i needed to cut a bit to make room. When I did the bed, I POR-15'd the entire rear area top and sides, and figured I'd do the underside when I did the rear end. As that hasn't happened, that's why it looks a bit odd.