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#1 | |
Registered User
Join Date: Apr 2001
Location: DALLAS,TX
Posts: 21,934
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Re: Starting 1966 Factory Short Bed Build, Bagged, 383 Stroker and Muncie M20 4-Speed
Quote:
Since you have lowering blocks, OE style T/A's & larger diameter wheels, you can always do a taller block if you need more psi in the bag for ride quality. The taller block adds more drop so you add more air psi to get things back to where you were w/a shorter block. It's not recommended on smaller diameter wheels because of Scrub-Line concerns but you should be ok since you're not using 15's/stock steel wheels.
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67SWB-B.B.RetroRod 64SWB-Recycle 89CCDually-Driver/Tow Truck 99CCSWB Driver All Fleetsides @rattlecankustoms in IG Building a small, high rpm engine with the perfect bore, stroke and rod ratio is very impressive. It's like a highly skilled Morrocan sword fighter with a Damascus Steel Scimitar..... Cubic inches is like Indiana Jones with a cheap pistol. |
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#2 | |
Registered User
Join Date: Mar 2015
Location: Washington State
Posts: 1,644
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Re: Starting 1966 Factory Short Bed Build, Bagged, 383 Stroker and Muncie M20 4-Speed
Quote:
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#3 |
Registered User
Join Date: Mar 2015
Location: Washington State
Posts: 1,644
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Re: Starting 1966 Factory Short Bed Build, Bagged, 383 Stroker and Muncie M20 4-Speed
So, this weekend i will have more updates.
After some great help and suggestions on this site, Scoti and CaptainFab, i have a long and bent pan hard bar coming, a new rack and pinion system, rubber snubs for axle, new rear shocks, battery, wires, and a few other minor pieces. I would love to have the frame mobile this weekend, God Willing. |
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