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04-19-2020, 11:48 AM | #1 |
Formerly- 1972SuperCheyenne
Join Date: Oct 2008
Location: Wake Forest NC
Posts: 5,782
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Proportioning valve vs No valve
In process of my 81 C10 rebuild and converting to manual brakes (Wilwood master cylinder) and installing Slosh Tubz firewall filler panels to clean up the firewall as much as possible. I have a couple questions. What bore master cylinder are people using when going to manual brakes. Currently a disc/drum setup. Also, I have seen some people using a proportioning valve and some people not. Do I need to run one? If so can I use the factory one or need to find one that was designed for manual brakes. Thanks for any feedback.
Those of you running manual brakes, can you post pics of how you ran your brake lines, Id like to do away with the spiral of brake line @ the master cylinder.
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--Josh My Build Thread:http://67-72chevytrucks.com/vboard/s...d.php?t=799218 A good crossthread is better than Loctite any day. Life is not about what you have, but who you have to share it with. |
04-19-2020, 04:21 PM | #2 |
Registered User
Join Date: May 2012
Location: horseheads,ny rust belt
Posts: 2,794
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Re: Proportioning valve vs No valve
the factory valve is a TEE for the front and restricter for the rear be it a fixed ratio . then if a line pops or looses fluid the bias valve inside moves and trips the switch for the light in the dash .
i run this style my self and like it . you dont get a switch for the dash light but i dont care my self . wilwood https://www.summitracing.com/parts/wil-260-11179 summit looks identical https://www.summitracing.com/parts/sum-g3906 these give you the TEE for the front and adjustable rear to dial it in were you like the bias . or do the line lock in the front for the TEE and line lock and 1 of these plumbed in the rear feed . wilwood https://www.summitracing.com/parts/wil-260-8419 summit looks the same as wilwood https://www.summitracing.com/parts/sum-g3905 the spiral of brake line is for body to frame flex . if the line is to rigid it will shake and brake its self much faster . i have seen lots of late model stuff with a much nicer section of braided s.s. flex line thats straight in there from the master and would be a cleaner look . you would have to junk yard hunt for that tho and make your own line combo from there .
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77-k30lb BIG truck build . 87-k30lb budget beater build . 85-k30lb the plow machine build . 85-c10sb summer fun toy . ----------------------------- HOLLEY SNIPER efi = worst case of p.i.t.a i ever had . EDELBROCK pro flo 4 = best deal going so far . love my setup works great. |
04-19-2020, 04:51 PM | #3 |
Post Whore
Join Date: May 2015
Location: Alabama
Posts: 14,657
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Re: Proportioning valve vs No valve
Better use a disc/drum prop valve like sweetk showed..
And you need a disc/drum master cyl as well... If you dont already have one pol can hook you up with what you need . Heres how I did my lines to eliminate the moonshine still coils.. -an fittings and ss braid, lines
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Mongo...aka Greg RIP Dad RIP Jesse 1981 C30 LQ9 NV4500..http://67-72chevytrucks.com/vboard/s...d.php?t=753598 Mongos AD- LS3 TR6060...http://67-72chevytrucks.com/vboard/s...34#post8522334 Columbus..the 1957 IH 4x4...http://67-72chevytrucks.com/vboard/s...63#post8082563 2023 Chevy Z71..daily driver |
04-20-2020, 01:19 AM | #4 |
Senior Member
Join Date: Jul 2000
Location: North Texas
Posts: 3,526
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Re: Proportioning valve vs No valve
For manual brakes the factory used a master cylinder bore of just under 1 inch (25 mm, I think). At least that was true for the 82 model C10.
If I were going power to manual, I'd probably do 15/16". And if you plumb in a manual prop valve, you can fine tune the system so the rears don't lock up prematurely. BTW, for me this would be the ultimate kit. I had the 7/8" version on a 55 Chevy car with entry-level Wilwood front brakes and 9"x 2" rear drums. Worked great! Move down the page to see the 15/16" and 7/8" part numbers.https://www.wilwood.com/MasterCylind...%20and%20Valve
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Mike 1969 C10 LWB -- owned for 35 years. 350/TH350, 3.08 posi, 1st Gen Vintage Air, AAW wiring harness, 5-lug conversion, 1985 spindles and brakes. 1982 C10 SWB -- sold 1981 C10 Silverado LWB -- sold, but wish I still had it! 1969 C10 (not the current one) that I bought in the early 1980s. Paid $1200; sold for $1500 a few years later. Just a hint at the appreciation that was coming. Retired as a factory automation products salesman. Worked part-time over the years for an engine builder and a classic car repair shop. Member here for 24 years! This is the very first car/truck Internet forum I joined. I still used a dial-up modem back then! Last edited by MikeB; 04-20-2020 at 01:24 AM. |
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