Crash's 69 K10

[Duck1]

Originally Posted by Crash_OK

Today was a long day… Went early this morning to pick up some parts that MCBassin machined for me… Once Again Thinks Mike… Left there and headed to the shop. First task was to install new tail shaft in the 4L60e.

First step is to remove the bell housing. The bolts are a T50-Plus.. If you ever need to remove these bolts do not use a regular T50… you will see why a little later.




The bolts are installed with thread lock from the factory. Applying heat helps to break the bolts loose. Just put a little heat on the bolt. Don’t overdo it.. You can also put it on the outside of the case where the bolts attach.



Working by yourself requires some riggin…



Bellhousing is off..


Now you can see what happens when you try and use a T50 in place of a T50-Plus. I had to drill the head off of the bolt.





Remove the pan and filter.



Remove the TCC solenoid. You have to remove this solenoid to get to the TCC solenoid.






Pull the front pump.. this can be done many different ways.. I usually use a couple pairs of vice grips on the outer part of the front pump.. just pull up and work the vise groups back and forth.




This oil ring needs to be removed before pulling the pump.




Next remove the band and then grip the input shaft and lift the entire assembly up and out of the case.



Remove the rest until you get down to the snap ring.




Snap ring removed.. this is the one everyone talks about.. it is not that easy to get out, unless you have had some practices



The shaft could be removed at this point from the rear … however I went ahead and pulled it all out to look at the clutches and other parts..











Shaft is out.


Old vs new.


New shaft ready to go in…


Back together we go…





It is important to use lent free rags and also remember to use white lithium grease to help hold the thrust washer and bearings.

Time for the snap ring.. the shaft will fall out the bottom without this ring..




Install the band and then set the assembly back into the case. This is heavy and you need to make sure it gets seated correctly.







Next lower the front pump back into the case. Make sure the trust washer does not fall off. I used a couple of drill bits to help line the pump up..


Run all the bolts down.. just snug them..




Make sure you have some end play with the input shaft. If not, then something is wrong.. Everything was good in my case… Torque the front pump bolts to 18 ft/lbs

Don’t forget to install the o-ring…



Install solenoids and filter..

Clean pan and install gasket..



All finished..




Time to install the 4L60e to 700R4 adapter.. this gets us back to the TH350 4bolt flange for the transmission to transfer case adapter.



Now the fun part… I need to cut .500 inches off of the power coupler..



Success…






Transmission is complete..

Time to mate it to the engine..



And then the progress came to a complete stop… The input seals for the transfer case are to big… Got to have them to continue..


Decided to move forward with the Dirty Dingo Sliders…



All we need now is the seals and we can install the Transfer Case into the frame, and then install the transmission and engine…




Hopefully NAPA or O’Reilly’s will have the seals I need… But I doubt it…. If not, I will install some new u-bolts on the DANA 44, and install the rear Brake hose. Maybe I will start on the wiring..

Good night..

You have to love the interchangablity of GM. That output shaft is from a 700-R4 81-92 the predecessor to the 4L60E. You can see the teeth that the governor would have meshed with