C NOTCH or no C NOTCH

[my56chevytruck]

A friend owns a 56 2nd Series Chevy truck and has asked me HOW MUCH C NOTCH can be done before reducing the stock height of the truck bed, so my question to you is, can you C NOTCH the rear frame without losing the stock height of your truck bed? AND have NO rear axle diff banging to bed issues?? those that have C notched your rear axle, can you post your pictures. thanks

[Ziegelsteinfaust]

There are 2 ways to do a C-notch, and total drop depends on a couple of factors.

Some cut the frame, and weld in the C about 1/2 to 2/3's of the frame height. The higher you cut the more reinforcement you will need.

To the above. Depending on how high the bed sits above the frame in that area. Its a good idea to weld thick wall square tube there to reinforce the span.

At ride height in my opinion for a cruiser you want 2" minimum between the top of you 3rd member, and bed floor. I prefer 3" for most builds.. My 2018 uses baby soft bump stops, and would find similar. Especially if you want to run really low.

I have built a truck with just over a 1" gap between the 3rd member, and bed floor. While usually not bad. Every once in a while it would be quite the ride. We put small RE5 airbags in back along with fill caps in the bumper to fill them up with a bicycle pump.

[SCOTI]

Originally Posted by my56chevytruck

A friend owns a 56 2nd Series Chevy truck and has asked me HOW MUCH C NOTCH can be done before reducing the stock height of the truck bed, so my question to you is, can you C NOTCH the rear frame without losing the stock height of your truck bed? AND have NO rear axle diff banging to bed issues?? those that have C notched your rear axle, can you post your pictures. thanks

He'll want 3" of clearance for a trouble free driving experience. 2" would get him by but it could occasionally make contact. Anything less than 2" is going to make contact sooner or later.

The more the frame gets notched, the weaker it gets so keep that in mind. Typical 'bolt-in' c-notches that remove 2/3 of the rail height are weaker than the stock rail despite having a thicker vertical area. Just welding in a 'C' (half pipe) is not as strong either. Like Ziegelsteinfaust suggested, if more than a 1/3 of the rail height is removed, the frame should be reinforced above the rail in some form/fashion.