55.2-59 Heater Hose Ideas

[MALIBLOC]

I have a SBC and the hose from the WP to intake is ridiculously long and Im not connecting it to heater core so what are some of the options i have at shorting this hose , has anyone ever hardlined something like this , Id like to clean up the engine bay and this hose is just killing me.
Looking for some ideas and input
Thanks in advance.

[_Ogre]

why not just shorten it? no reason to run it to the fender and back

if you never plan on a heater you can remove both fittings and plug them
i do suggest a bypass hole in the thermostat if you eliminate it

[nvrdone]

I would think you could bend up some nice copper line & flare it with fittings on the ends. sort of like brake line only bigger. then polish it.

[Troy Sr]

Unscrew the fittings and put in some nice pipe plugs

[mr48chev]

That looks to be the quick fix on a leaking heater core. No reason you can't just do as Troy SR suggested and take the pipe fittings out and put in pipe plugs. Unless you are planning on redoing the heater in short order, then just cut one end of the hose off and make a shorter loop and call it good. That means you have to buy new hose when you hook it back up but that is a good idea anyhow.

[MiraclePieCo]

I use these, specifically made for blocking off heater hoses. Five-minute installation, no danger of cracking a manifold trying to remove hose bungs, and you can always reinstall your heater hose later if you choose. They're available at any auto parts store.

https://www.ebay.com/itm/Fits-Chevy-...-/371601356895

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[mr48chev]

That may be your simplest and best solution. Some times those fittings don't want to come out and guys have broken the manifolds trying to get them out.

You can get them at Autozone or O'Reilly's and probably any other parts house but need to know if you just need 5/8 or you need a 5/8 and a 3/4 cap https://www.autozone.com/cooling-hea...ing-bypass-cap

They often sell them to cap the heater return on GM radiators that have the return like from the heater to the radiator and the rig has the return line going to the water pump when you buy an aftermarket radiator that fits several applications.

[dsraven]

some systems will overheat if the bypass hose is removed but you can try plugging and go from there. a cut off piece of broom handle and some hose clamps would be good enough to plug the hoses for a test. then if it doesn't overheat use the rubber plugs like mentioned in an earlier post. sometimes the manifold fittings are very tight and it becomes more trouble than it's worth to get them out plus the possibility of cracking the manifold like mentioned.

[MALIBLOC]

Originally Posted by MiraclePieCo

I use these, specifically made for blocking off heater hoses. Five-minute installation, no danger of cracking a manifold trying to remove hose bungs, and you can always reinstall your heater hose later if you choose. They're available at any auto parts store.

https://www.ebay.com/itm/Fits-Chevy-...-/371601356895

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thank yo to everyone I appreciate it, this forum is so much better than Trifives.com by the way, if I asked that question on their every response would have been a picture of their cars and not related to the my question you guys rock
If i use these caps Im assuming I will need to hose clamp them down correct.

[dsraven]

correct. drain some coolant or be ready for a spill. pull the old hose off, clean the spigot, slip the plugs on and then clamp them down. if it has been awhile since changing your coolant now would be an opportune time. drain the rad first and reinstall the cap after so you don't get totally soaked, then pull the block drains on each side and open the rad cap. be ready with some drain pans. I usually flush the engine at that time using the garden hose but not wide open. I would remove the lower rad hose if doing that but after the coolant is drained. you would be amazed at the sediment in most engines. coolant should be flushed out every 5 yrs at least.

[1project2many]

Ok, I'm gonna be that guy.

On first generation SBC's running pre-Vortec cylinder heads there is a coolant bypass passage built into the RH head and RH side of the block. This passage allows some coolant to circulate through the block and back to the water pump at all times but does not direct any coolant through the intake manifold. Early SBC equipped vehicles such as the TF truck had a heater hose connection at the front of the intake below the thermostat. When coolant was allowed to circulate through the heater this would allow warming water from the engine to contact the thermostat and warm it up so it would open.

Many of these vehicles used a manual shutoff valve which completely blocked coolant flow through the heater. When the valve and thermostat were closed the temperature could spike as the engine warmed up. The fix for many was to drill a small hole in the thermostat or to use a "premium" thermostat which had a very small leak built into the t-stat.

Over the years GM altered the heating system flow path. They moved the heater connection to the RH side of the intake and removed the shutoff valve allowing coolant to circulate continuously through the heater. They changed the controls in the heater so air was directed around the heater core. This change allowed coolant to circulate to the top of the intake and signal the t-stat to prevent delayed circulation through the radiator.

Vortec engines completely changed the cooling bypass system. Vortec uses a dual valve T-stat which opens the bypass when it closes off the radiator. The bypass is connected between front of intake and water pump. This system improves engine cooling by (1) providing a strong signal to the thermostat, and (2) preventing coolant from bypassing the radiator when the engine is warm. Because of this change the hole in the block has been deleted. Which has led to some water pumps being remanufactured using housing not containing the passages for the gen 1 SBC bypass.

Hopefully you have no problems but if you do, the description may help figure things out. In your case removing the hoses and putting in plugs should work. It looks like you have a "Gen 1" block and heads. Hopefully the water pump is drilled and the proper gaskets are installed. If you have trouble with the temperature rising high before the thermostat opens try drilling a small hole in the 'stat.

[Driver_WT]

Originally Posted by 1project2many

Vortec engines completely changed the cooling bypass system. Vortec uses a dual valve T-stat which opens the bypass when it closes off the radiator. The bypass is connected between front of intake and water pump. This system improves engine cooling by (1) providing a strong signal to the thermostat, and (2) preventing coolant from bypassing the radiator when the engine is warm. Because of this change the hole in the block has been deleted. Which has led to some water pumps being remanufactured using housing not containing the passages for the gen 1 SBC bypass.

I have a CT350 GM crate engine (CT = Circle Track) which came with Vortec heads. It just has a regular thermostat in it and a GM Performance dual plane intake manifold (which it came with). I have not had the engine running yet, but sounds like I need a different thermostat. Heater hoses were not connected when I got the truck project, so I need to figure out where they are supposed to go.

[1project2many]

Originally Posted by Driver_WT

I have a CT350 GM crate engine (CT = Circle Track) which came with Vortec heads. It just has a regular thermostat in it and a GM Performance dual plane intake manifold (which it came with). I have not had the engine running yet, but sounds like I need a different thermostat. Heater hoses were not connected when I got the truck project, so I need to figure out where they are supposed to go.

That will be a fun engine in your truck. A small hole drilled in the T/stat is usually enough to get warm water up to the front of the manifold. If you don't drive the truck in 20 deg F or colder temps a 1/8" hole should work fine.

[Driver_WT]

Originally Posted by 1project2many

That will be a fun engine in your truck. A small hole drilled in the T/stat is usually enough to get warm water up to the front of the manifold. If you don't drive the truck in 20 deg F or colder temps a 1/8" hole should work fine.

Thanks. It will be a summer ride only, so no concern about very cold temps. The engine should put out 400 ft lb of torque with a nice flat torque curve. Looking forward to getting it on the road this summer.

Do I still need to run a hose from the intake manifold to the water pump? I may not put a heater in it for the first year.

Thanks.

[mr48chev]

The small hole in the thermostat body shell is to bleed air out of the system when you fill it. Not intended to allow coolant to circulate. That is to avoid the fill it up until it acts full, start and run it a bit add more coolant thing that most of us have done time and time again with gen 1 small blocks and a lot of other engines.

With the Vortec heads I'd be inclined to just run a shorter length of heater hose to act as a bypass hose but still drill an 1/8 hole in the flat of the thermostat body to bleed the air out. The bypass hose isn't going to relieve the trapped air situation.

[dsraven]

if a small length of hose is used to connect the two ports then coolant is allowed to flow through the entire block until the thermostat opens. this will allow more even cylinder/head temps throughout and possibly eliminate steam pockets that could happen in any hot spots. I understand the old cars came with a heater delete option but the newer stuff makes more HP and like to run hotter so a nice looking bypass hose wouldn't be such a bad idea possibly. there is already the small bypass built into the block on the water pump mounting flange. the little hole below the pass side bolt hole is actually a runner up to the cyl head for flow. not gonna pass much coolant though. a couple pics here.

https://www.hotrodders.com/forum/wat...-a-414257.html

[greg_h]

Originally Posted by MiraclePieCo

I use these, specifically made for blocking off heater hoses. Five-minute installation, no danger of cracking a manifold trying to remove hose bungs, and you can always reinstall your heater hose later if you choose. They're available at any auto parts store.

https://www.ebay.com/itm/Fits-Chevy-...-/371601356895

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I used the same things but need to keep an eye on them. The heat dries them out and they will start seeping and eventually fail.

[1project2many]

The small hole in the thermostat body shell is to bleed air out of the system when you fill it. Not intended to allow coolant to circulate.

It also allows some coolant to circulate which lets warm coolant get to the bottom of the stat. You would be amazed how much coolant can get through a 1/8" hole. When I was living in MT my car wouldn't make heat on the coldest days. The t-stat was fine but the small hole prevented engine heating at -34 degrees F.

If I were going to run a bypass without using the heater I would plumb the manifold and water pump for pipe to flare fittings then run 3/16" or 1/4" hard line bent for the engine.

[Driver_WT]

If I run a four line heater valve (which is a bypass valve when the heater is turned off) and a heater loop, will that take the place of the bypass hose from the front of the intake manifold to the top of the water pump?

Four line heater valve for 1997 Chev 1500 truck https://www.rockauto.com/en/catalog/...ter+valve,6860

[1project2many]

The constant circulation system you describe should be more than enough. All you need is some way to ensure water under the thermostat gets warm enough to cause the 'stat to open.

[MALIBLOC]

So today I was cruising the neighborhood and I watch my temp gauge just shot up to 200,210,220,230 so i pulled over quickly to see what the issue was and I notice my radiator was stone cold and my truck was idling for about 3 minutes before I took off to the store.
Did my stat get stuck?
When I pulled over and notice that nothings was flowing I cracked the radiator cap and I could hear air either bringing sucked in or getting released and my overflow tank started to get filled , once this happen the radiator got hot and I started the truck to circulate fluid?
Was there some sort of air pocket?
And where exact would I drill a hole , on the stat itself.
Just trying to understand what happened.
Thanks

[dsraven]

first question
what brand of stat are you running and what temp is it rated for? I have had lots of problems with aftermarket stats not functioning like they should or completely failing. I only use AC/DELCO stats now (or dealer for other branded vehicles)
second question.
when you filled the engine with coolant did you run it afterward and check to see if the stat opened and the rad level was topped off after? then, when the unit is cold again, pull the rad cap and check the level IN THE RAD, NOT THE OVERFLOW TANK?
third question.
have you checked your rad cap to ensure it is for the system type you are running. a system with no overflow would have only a single gasket/rubber on the end of the cap. a cap for use with the overflow tank would have that seal on the end plus a gasket right under the cap top to seal the cap with the top edge of the rad filler neck. the rad cap will likely be rated for 15-16 lbs and is an item that would be on just about any shops inspection list to be checked for seal integrity and also would need to pass a pressure test of the cap to see if it seals and relieves at the correct pressure. a check of the integrity of the rad cap seal, gasket and the sealing surfaces on the rad can reveal problems. the seal on the end of the rad cap should be flat and smooth, not cone shaped with a wear groove. the gasket under the cap should also be smooth with no wear groove. the overflow hose should be attached with a clamp to the spigot on the rad filler. the hose should draw fluid from near the bottom of the overflow tank and the overflow tank cap hose connection, if applicable, should also seal the hose properly.
fourth question.
you say the rad burped back into the overflow when you removed the cap. when it cooled off did you check to see if the overflow tank was back down where it should be? the system is made to burp out when heated and pressurized to the rad cap spec, then when it cools off it should also draw the fluid back into the system when the coolant contacts back to the same volume as it was before it heated and expanded. checking the coolant in the rad on a cold engine can tell you whether or not the system is full, completely, and whether or not the rad cap is allowing coolant to return to the engine when the engine cols off. simply checking the overflow tank level is not sufficient especially on a new system that you have not run before and gotten used to where the system levels find themselves working.
fifth question.
how does the relationship between the engine and the rad look? on some vehicles the rad has been lowered to fit the vehicle configuration and the air has a hard time finding it's way out since the t stat housing is almost higher than the rad cap. some cars even have a bleeder screw on the engine to bleed air out due to this problem.
sixth question.
are you sure your water pump is made to turn the direction it is turning? some were made for serpentine belt systems which turned backwards.

here is a blurb on t stat bleed holes and engine temps. made for the newer engines with computer control but shows where how and why to drill a hole in the stat. there are also stats available with the jiggle valve installed to allow air to escape and a small amount of flow. anyway, the important thing is to locate the hole at the top of the stat if the stat sits sideways/vertically in the engine. if it sits horizontally it shouldn't matter too much.

https://www.jerrysgaskets.com/thermo...-modification/

it seems to me, by your description of you "getting hot" issue, that there was air trapped in the engine so the stat wasn't seeing correct engine temp. in this scenario the temp gauge may also be reading incorrectly due to air entrainment or bubbles. since you got flow when the cap was removed it seems the bubbles found their way out. my concern would be the possibility that the stat is hanging up or not reliably opening. a new stat is cheap insurance especially if you plan to dig it out and drill a bypass hole. I would start with a reliable new stat first. check to ensure the system has a good chance of working properly, as far as coolant flow and availability of air to escape, then go from there. use antifreeze as well, not just water. antifreeze has some anti rust additives as well as additives to make the coolant absorb heat better than straight water and also stay liquid longer, both cold AND hot.
here is a pic (I think) of a stat housing with a bleeder screw. (if it attaches). it is from a chevy diesel. maybe something like this would help you bleed air from your system.

https://www.dieselhub.com/img/tutori...leed-valve.JPG

anyway, hope you get it figured out before something bad happens. keep us posted.

[dsraven]

you could also incorporate a bleeder into the threaded hole where your heater hose used to connect to the intake manifold. it isn't quite at the top but it's close.