Drag-Link question

[kyoung]

I've put a 4" lift on my 68 K10 and went with an adjustable drag-link. The old drag-link had a taper bolt on the knuckle side. The new drag-link has no taper and doesn't seem to want to give enough thread to put a cotter pin through on the bottom side. Do I just need to crank the hell out of it to get it to set into the hole or should it have had a taper?

[special-K]

That doesn`t sound right.Was the part listed for a`68?I`d think all rod ends should be taper-fit.Personally,I don`t like a drop drag link.ou just gave me one more reason.I think the stationary steering arm is the way to go to adjust for height with a newer factory-type adjustable drag link.I think a drag link should be a straight shot without that offset to increase side to side stress on the joints and virtually change the geometry a bit when if rolls ever so slightly from side to side as the suspension travels up and down.I`m no engineer,but that`s what I envision

[Yukon Jack]

As you've figured out, with the closed knuckle axle, the adjustable drag link is about the only option as a raised steering arm isn't available. I used the same drag link as you are using on my 69 K20 and it definitely fit differently than yours.

I'm assuming your arm has a taper to the hole. I can look at my drag ling end tonight as I have one of those pulled presently but I'm just certain it has a taper to it.

If it doesn't have a taper, I'd be very reluctant to put alot of torque to it - something is wrong. Maybe give the manufacturer of the drag link a call.

[special-K]

I wondered about raised steering arms for closed knuckles being made or not.

[Yukon Jack]

Here's a pic of the drag link end showing the taper your end should have

[gmc 2500 4x4]

good info, i was getting ready to buy one

[sweetk30]

the pics of the original poster has a few problems . . . . yes i know old thread someone dug up .

the first is the tapper size is smaller a lot more on the older rigs than the newer ones . easy to fix with the correct 1.5" per foot tapper reamer common for automotive use . https://www.ruffstuffspecialties.com/catalog/REAM.html yes it says 1ton size . but the tapper is the same its just how deep / big you make the hole to the size of the joint being used .

next is the angle his new S-shaped drag link is at is WAY to much . notice the ends are pointing way off . the drag link should have a slight down angle when the vehicle is on level ground and weight on it . his pic shows the threaded end at the box pointing up and the axle end down . this is NOT going to handle good at all . and even worse as the suspension flexes down .

hope this info helps and if any more questions just ask .

[gmc 2500 4x4]

Thanx for the info, I wasn't getting a full left turn, I put on an adj drag link which was to long, I shortened both links 1/2" , all good. And I run the drop pitman arm

[derotoreut]

Originally Posted by gmc 2500 4x4

Thanx for the info, I wasn't getting a full left turn, I put on an adj drag link which was to long, I shortened both links 1/2" , all good. And I run the drop pitman arm

I was just going through the same thing over the last couple days on my K10. I have the Skyjacker 2-1/2" lift, but never had the drop arm. I just bought and installed the CA50 drop pitman arm. I also wanted to replaced my drag link since my old one was a mess. I bought the Moog ES2027L link at pitman arm, Moog ES2026R outer and Moog 41822RM adjusting sleeve.

First I adjusted the tie rods to get my front wheels pointed perfectly straight. With my tires removed, I used a 3' level against the ends of the wheel studs and measured off the leaf springs back to the level and got both sides adjusted perfectly. With my pitman arm in dead center, and steering arm in dead center I was not able to get my drag link installed. I ran out of adjustment as the ends of the links butted up against each other in the adjusting sleeve. I had to take about 1/2" off one the drag link rods in order to get it adjusted right.

[61K10]

this is what i used with no mods--es2027L tie rod end--es2234R tie rod end and es 362s sleeve.

[gmc 2500 4x4]

Good to know !

[derotoreut]

I wonder if the different year matters somehow? Or maybe the drop pitman arm? It would be sad if the ones made in Taiwan fit better then ones made in the USA.

[61K10]

One of the tie rod ends is the right taper for the steering arm. Don't remember which one.