Preparing to order suspension parts, please review

[ncsurveyor]

Hey guys, i'm preparing to rebuild my suspension back to the control arms and convert to 4 wheel disk brakes, 5 lug. I've picked out everything I think I will need, listed below. I'm new at this and still learning. Would you guys be kind enough to look at everything i've got picked out and let me know if i'm missing anything or if there's anything I don't need or need to change?
Thanks for the help!

5 lug rear disk conversion kit: https://www.performanceonline.com/71...it-rear-5-lug/

5 lug rear axle conversion kit: https://www.performanceonline.com/19...-Bolt-Pattern/

adjustable pan hard bar: https://www.performanceonline.com/19...-bar-trac-bar/

front and rear shock and drop spring kit: https://www.performanceonline.com/63...k-kit-csk0000/

tubular control arm kit: https://www.performanceonline.com/19...ntrol-arm-set/

coil spring retainer cup kit: https://www.performanceonline.com/19...-cup-kit-rear/

front sway bar kit: https://www.performanceonline.com/19...ormance-Front/

tie rod and idler arm kit: https://www.performanceonline.com/19...-Control-Arms/

pitman arm: https://www.performanceonline.com/19...ng-pitman-arm/

front disk brake conversion kit: https://www.performanceonline.com/19...le-5-or-6-Lug/

power brake booster kit, disk/disk: https://www.performanceonline.com/19...e-Booster-Kit/


I think this is everything I need?

[demian5]

I don't know about POL, I would look at CPP. Every place has their shining sun. However I do hear that summit sells CPP and has free shipping so you can save some $$$.

I ordered from POL once, but that was only because they sold a true 1960 C10 front and rear sway bar.

And for just the pitman and idler arm and ball joint type stuff, get Moog from Rock Auto.

[MDPotter]

My disc brake conversion is from POL (actually Western Chassis) and I'm happy with it.

The only thing I would change is to get the deluxe front disc conversion kit because it comes with inner and outer tie rod ends, adjuster sleeves, and upper and lower ball joints. I don't see ball joints listed in your post.

You'll have to get the idler arm separate if you get the deluxe kit as it doesn't come with it.

https://www.performanceonline.com/19...pindle-Deluxe/

[ncsurveyor]

Originally Posted by MDPotter

My disc brake conversion is from POL (actually Western Chassis) and I'm happy with it.

The only thing I would change is to get the deluxe front disc conversion kit because it comes with inner and outer tie rod ends, adjuster sleeves, and upper and lower ball joints. I don't see ball joints listed in your post.

You'll have to get the idler arm separate if you get the deluxe kit as it doesn't come with it.

https://www.performanceonline.com/19...pindle-Deluxe/

But if i'm getting new control arms I don't need new balls joints do I? The control arms come with new ball joints already installed.

[ncsurveyor]

Originally Posted by demian5

I don't know about POL, I would look at CPP. Every place has their shining sun. However I do hear that summit sells CPP and has free shipping so you can save some $$$.

I ordered from POL once, but that was only because they sold a true 1960 C10 front and rear sway bar.

And for just the pitman and idler arm and ball joint type stuff, get Moog from Rock Auto.

I may not order from POL, thats just where I went to pick out my list of what all I need.

[MDPotter]

Originally Posted by ncsurveyor

But if i'm getting new control arms I don't need new balls joints do I? The control arms come with new ball joints already installed.

Then no, you don't need ball joints. You should be fine with everything you've got picked out.

[68Stepbed]

www.azproperformance.com

[68Stepbed]

I'm gonna throw this question out there. What is the intended goal for your truck?

[ncsurveyor]

Originally Posted by 68Stepbed

I'm gonna throw this question out there. What is the intended goal for your truck?

My goal is to have a really nice, reliable driver. I don't necessarily want it to be a show truck because I enjoy driving it too much but I would like it to be 100% reliable and ride nice and somewhat of a head turner.
I just sold a corvette I owned so i've got about 16k to put in it. So far i'm thinking of redoing the entire suspension/brakes which is what the part list is above. Then nice tires/wheels to get the look i'm going for.
The motor thats in it runs well now but it leaks and uses a LOT of oil and I like the idea of putting an LS in it, especially since i've got the money right now to do it. I'm thinking a 5.7 ls1. I can find a low miles motor and trans for around 4500. After that, i'm thinking whatever money i've got left i'd put in in the body/paint, interior.
Am I way off base here? I'm open to any suggestions.

Thanks for all the help so far.

[GASoline71]

Then you could save yourself a ton of cash and reuse the stock front control arms, stock rear trailing arms, keep drum brakes out back, get a 71-72 front 5-lug disc setup and get Moser 5-lug conversion axles.

You can get Moog suspension parts (ball joints, tie rod ends, etc.) at a local parts store.

Unless you're autocrossing or building an ultimate show truck... you won't need all that fancy stuff. These rigs were designed pretty well from the factory.

I also buy all CPP stuff from Summit Racing so I can get free shipping.

Gary

[67C10Step]

Originally Posted by GASoline71

Then you could save yourself a ton of cash and reuse the stock front control arms, stock rear trailing arms, keep drum brakes out back, get a 71-72 front 5-lug disc setup and get Moser 5-lug conversion axles.

You can get Moog suspension parts (ball joints, tie rod ends, etc.) at a local parts store.

Unless you're autocrossing or building an ultimate show truck... you won't need all that fancy stuff. These rigs were designed pretty well from the factory.

I also buy all CPP stuff from Summit Racing so I can get free shipping.

Gary

I've been watching this thread closely to see what suggestions you get and where you head. This quote right here sums up my build perfectly, only I am on a much slower roll than you. I have the rear section done for the most part sans new brake lines. I stuck with drum brakes as I am not building a power house truck or show truck. Will be ordering Moog cross shafts and probably ball joints. Converting to disc brakes and getting 2.5" drop spindles to complete my 2.5/4 drop. This will update the old 67 nicely and get me to and from the car shows and burger joints.

[MDPotter]

Agreed, you don't need rear discs or new front control arms. I rebuilt my rear drums and put new ball joints and cross shafts on my control arms and I'm happy. The front brakes do most of the stopping anyway so rear discs are just a luxury for a nice daily driver. Not much to gain with aftermarket control arms either for what you're building.

[ncsurveyor]

Thanks guys, definitely something to consider. The existing control arms and everything else on the suspension just looks so old and caked with dirt and 50 years of crap it just seemed like I should probably replace everything but maybe not..

[GASoline71]

Originally Posted by ncsurveyor

Thanks guys, definitely something to consider. The existing control arms and everything else on the suspension just looks so old and caked with dirt and 50 years of crap it just seemed like I should probably replace everything but maybe not..

Super easy to take them apart and degrease them, then hit them with a coat of paint. If you look at my build thread ("The Rebuild of Creeping Death after the wreck" in my signature line), you'll see it's exactly what I did. I did everything to my rig that I described in my earlier post. I took 1972 5-lug front end parts and put them on a 1969 frame. I also used Moser 5-lug conversion axles in the 1969 12 bolt housing. I redid all the disc and drum brake stuff with off the shelf parts store stuff. I used off the shelf Moog suspension and steering parts (ball joints, front control arm cross shafts, idler arm, pitman arm, and tie rod ends) from local parts store as well. I got new Prothane polyurethane bushings for my stock front sway bar too.

I used the stock 1972 spindles and used CPP 2" lowering springs up front. I used the stock 1969 trailing arms and used CPP Heavy Duty 4" drop springs out back. Also used the stock 1969 panhard bar. CPP front and rear shocks with a shock relocation kit for the rear. Then I took it in for a front end alignment. Drives excellent, and looks cool as hell.

Saved me a boatload of cash.

Gary

[Pick]

I'm somewhere in between the suggestions. I took an afternoon with an angle grinder and some wire wheels to knock the grunge off, went with mostly stock replacement suspension components from Rock Auto, 2 1/2" drop spindles and a 6-lug 4-wheel disc kit. It works great for me and was budget friendly! I figured pictures might tell the story a bit better....















The process for the rear was the same. Clean, clean some more, inspect, paint, reassemble.

It isn't a show truck suspension by any means, but it's a clean, reliable driver (suspension). (the rest of the truck isn't up to that standard yet.......but it stops better than my Camaro!)

[68Stepbed]

Originally Posted by ncsurveyor

My goal is to have a really nice, reliable driver. I don't necessarily want it to be a show truck because I enjoy driving it too much but I would like it to be 100% reliable and ride nice and somewhat of a head turner.
I just sold a corvette I owned so i've got about 16k to put in it. So far i'm thinking of redoing the entire suspension/brakes which is what the part list is above. Then nice tires/wheels to get the look i'm going for.
The motor thats in it runs well now but it leaks and uses a LOT of oil and I like the idea of putting an LS in it, especially since i've got the money right now to do it. I'm thinking a 5.7 ls1. I can find a low miles motor and trans for around 4500. After that, i'm thinking whatever money i've got left i'd put in in the body/paint, interior.
Am I way off base here? I'm open to any suggestions.

Thanks for all the help so far.

There are less expensive ways to achieve what you want. The stock control arms are decently sturdy and work great for daily driver/cruiser duties, so really no need in expensive tubular arms that really don't do more than look good. The "improvements" that most companies claim are minimal.
Just clean/paint/rebuild the control arms with Moog parts from RockAuto.

As for the drop components, I suggest visiting www.azproperformance.com then call them. They'll put together a "package" with everything you want/need and take out any multiple items so you're not paying for stuff you don't need.

For brakes, there's really no need in getting crazy with expensive setups unless you plan to drive angry in autocross/HPDE track days. The stock front disc brake setup is perfectly suitable for what you want. The right brake pads will determine how well it stops. You have to buy rear brakes to swap to 5 lug anyway, so rear discs are a good upgrade, even though you won't see any major gains over rear drums.

On the engine, the 5.7L LS1 is great, but there's less expensive options. A truck 5.3 makes a great power platform and engine/trans combos can be found for as little as $1000 with low miles. You'd have to spend time shopping for that price or lower as average is around $1500-1800. A cam/valvetrain upgrade, headers and a good tune will yield about 400+ reliable HP.

[71gmcC15]

My opinion on LSs. Thre great an all but the stock motor is just as reliable. Unless yours is buring oil or has seauros other issues why change it. Some will say that carbureted engines are hard to start when cold and bla bla bla. They can be yes. But 9 times out of ten it's not the carbs falut. It's the guy who thought he knew what he was doing fault. A properly tuned carb is very easy to start. ( stock engine ) but if that's what your issue is. You can put a tbi unit on it and all your worries will go away. Now if you want cheap HP the LS all day but a daily driver doesn't need 400+hp. This is my experience any way. Besides evey other c10 has a ls in it. Put a 2jz or something unexpected in one. Its to the point whare I'm surprised by an original sbc or i6. But if you want an LS I'm not going to stop you. This is just my opinion.