47-55.1 Elecrtical?

[jwhotrod]

orange 12v is probably a switched battery connection, that means there is power on that wire whenever the battery is connected. pink 12v is ignition switched 12v the power on that wire should shut off with the ignition. orange is usually the hot side 12v feed to the stop light switch, that must have 12volts always so your brakelights work engine on or off.

[J48chevy]

Originally Posted by jwhotrod

orange 12v is probably a switched battery connection, that means there is power on that wire whenever the battery is connected. pink 12v is ignition switched 12v the power on that wire should shut off with the ignition. orange is usually the hot side 12v feed to the stop light switch, that must have 12volts always so your brakelights work engine on or off.

Yes I ended up using pink 12v ignition for power to my oil/volt/temp/gas gauge. No idea why the brown wire to rear lights is causing issue with dash lights staying on when connected to headlight switch. Disconnect and dash light works fine.

[mongocanfly]

How do you have your tail lights wired?

[J48chevy]

Originally Posted by mongocanfly

How do you have your tail lights wired?

I am running led tail lights. They are 3 wire. One grey, red, white. White is ground and have the grey and red together. Then yellow wire from harness is left rear and green wire from harness is right rear. Brown wire labeled park lights runs to rear from switch and is tied into both lights.

So basically have red/grey on each light connected to yellow/brown for left rear and green/brown for right rear. White for both grounded to frame.

[mongocanfly]

I had to draw it out ..is this how you have it?
assume the blue is your white ground
right light----red/green---gray/brown---(blue)white grounded to frame
left light-----red/yellow---gray/brown---(blue)white grounded to frame

[J48chevy]

Originally Posted by mongocanfly

I had to draw it out ..is this how you have it?
assume the blue is your white ground
right light----red/green---gray/brown---(blue)white grounded to frame
left light-----red/yellow---gray/brown---(blue)white grounded to frame

Yes. I have tried every color connection. Now you have me thinking it could be a tail light issue. As you can tell wiring is not my thing. For right now just have trailers led taillights I am using.

[mongocanfly]

you aint alone..i hate wiring...
try disconnecting one brown taillight wire at a time at the light and see if it has a effect on it
since disconnecting the brown wires to the taillight fixes the problem , it may be in the light

[J48chevy]

Originally Posted by mongocanfly

you aint alone..i hate wiring...
try disconnecting one brown taillight wire at a time at the light and see if it has a effect on it
since disconnecting the brown wires to the taillight fixes the problem , it may be in the light

Yeah I have tried just using one light. When I have it hooked like your picture the tail lights stay on. I even tried gray/green gray/yellow and brown red. Same issue even brighter. Dash lights not on but now tail lights stuck on. I am sure it is something simple just a pain in the a$$ to me.

You would think 3 wires coming from harness to rear. Yellow (left rear)green (right rear) and brown (from switch). Tail lights have red, gray, white. Evidently something I am missing. After 3 days I am about over it.

[J48chevy]

Found this on line.

On a three wire pigtail that's being used on a stop/turn/taillight, the red wire carries the brake/turn signal circuit, the black wire carries the running lamp circuit and the white wire provides the ground connection.

If that is correct then red would be connected to yellow and green from harness. Black or in my case gray would be connected to brown wire and white is ground.

Problem is my lights stay on when I connect the battery????

Also found this. Wonder if my flasher relay is the issue?

Using Automotive LED Lights is a bit different than using incandescent automotive bulbs. You can expect the wire colors and power consumption to be a bit of a surprise. Being that LED lights use far less power than standard automotive bulbs, if you plan to install LED lights as blinkers/turn signals, you should replace the standard thermal flasher relay with an LED or electronic flasher relay. LED bulbs use such little power that they won’t create enough heat to trip a standard thermal flasher.

[mongocanfly]

if the running lights (brown wire)are staying on then the only way they'll get power is thru the light switch...
which has me thinking switch
sounds like your red/yellow red/green isn't causing a issue...which don't go thru the light switch....
its just the brown from the switch to the taillight
do you have a meter or test light? unplug brown wire from switch and with switch off check for voltage from that pin to ground

[mongocanfly]

you might even try unplugging all the wiring on the light switch...except your 12v power and the brown wires and see if there is still a issue..if there is no issue, then start plugging the wires back in 1 at a time until the issue starts again

[J48chevy]

Originally Posted by mongocanfly

you might even try unplugging all the wiring on the light switch...except your 12v power and the brown wires and see if there is still a issue..if there is no issue, then start plugging the wires back in 1 at a time until the issue starts again

Will give that one a try. I did email American Auto Wire as well to see if they can turn me in right direction. Like I said 3 days of this and I am still stumped. Thanks for the advise.

[Tempest67]

I think it is your LED tail lights. They do not provide enough resistance for the switch to work properly.

According to my Kwikwire Instructions, you need to add a resistor to each LED wire circuit, or change to an 'Electronic LED Flasher'


I would disconnect your tail lights, add some 1157 bulbs (2 filament) and see how it works.

[mongocanfly]

I was thinking about the LEDs to, but I think the issues they cause is when the blinker is on and wont blink from not enough resistance for the blinker relay..the blinker and taillight are on different circuits
But who knows...It may be affecting it somehow

[Tempest67]

hmmmmmm, different circuits... good point.

I know that electricity will do strange things when not enough resistance, and maybe it is all happening at the light switch.


for peace of mind, I would add some standard 1157 sockets and bulbs and see what happens.

I know a guy who added those little red LED's to the bedrolls on his 54, and he needed the resistors to make it work

[J48chevy]

Well after 3-4 days of frustration I finally figured out issue. Yes almost embarrassed to say but the hazard switch was pushed in once I pulled that out all lights working fine. Leave it up to me to do that.

The only thing that still is not working is blinkers. They activate on each light but do not flash. Other than that all is well in electrical land. Haha. Thanks everyone for help and suggestions. I wouldn’t be this far without the help of you guys on here. Great site.

[mongocanfly]

Oh me...isnt it always the simplest thing some times....glad you figured it out...
The blinkers not blinking is most likely due to the leds... you'll need resistors to make those work..
Do like tempest suggested..wire a 1157 bulb in place of the led and see if it works..thatll let you know for sure what the issue is
Still odd that the hazard would affect the running lights and dash lights...the hazards should be on the brake light circuit..
But would explain why the flasher relay was warm..and the LEDs wont pull enough resistance to make it flash so that would be easy to miss.

[J48chevy]

Originally Posted by mongocanfly

Oh me...isnt it always the simplest thing some times....glad you figured it out...
The blinkers not blinking is most likely due to the leds... you'll need resistors to make those work..
Do like tempest suggested..wire a 1157 bulb in place of the led and see if it works..thatll let you know for sure what the issue is
Still odd that the hazard would affect the running lights and dash lights...the hazards should be on the brake light circuit..
But would explain why the flasher relay was warm..and the LEDs wont pull enough resistance to make it flash so that would be easy to miss.

I think it was affecting dash lights due to me having wires crossed at first with gauges and taillights. Once I got that and checked flasher I was like you have to be kidding me. Haha.
I also read somewhere that you can replace the 2 prong flasher fuses to LED and that will help also? Wasn’t sure if I do that or the resistors. The turn signals work they just don’t flash.