Lifting Engine Help

[buckola]

I think it would be easier to raise the engine, remove the pan and install a new one piece gasket to cure my major oil leaks.
My understanding is that you can jack up the engine under the pan as long as you use a large board to disperse the weight. Raising it 3-4 inches then support the engine under the motor mounts. Lower the jack, drop the pan install the gaskets...Voila!!!! Any other suggestion to this procedure? Should i still use silicone at the ends? etc etc etc.

thanks

[LONGHAIR]

It depends upon the vehicle involved. You may have distributor clearence problems. It is certainly not an easy job. I would lift from the top though if you can.

[guyryan100]

I'd rent an engine hoist ($20 for half-day here where I live) and lift from above. You'll save a lot of time over hastling with the jack and less risk of losing an arm or something. It'll give you more room too.

[BtnkBndt]

I lifted mine from underneath w/no problem. Cut a piece of 2x4 to spread the weight across the pan. Also removed the distributor cap before hand. Raised it enough to slide two small 2x4 pieces between each motor mount and lowered it onto them. Slid the pan right out the back. Watch the fan up front too. Might not be the best way but it works.

[jimfulco]

You'll get a little extra crank clearance if you put the timing mark at the bottom.

[67chevemall]

Bummer of a job! Good Luck!

[buckola]

I suspect I'll have to un button all the exhaust, tranny linkage etc. Right?

[1971 Cheyenne]

I'd lift it from the top, you will not be trying to work around jacks/blocks under there when your trying to do the gasket. We did a flywheel swap on my brothers 6.2 blazer, and supporting the engine from the top was definately wayyyy easier.

[72C203503ONTHETREE]

Best way to fix it is to remove the engine and check/replace the bearings and oil pump while its out, if you have an enguine with a lot of miles on it or you bought the truck and know nothing about it. Its not much more work, just a little more time. Wont have to buy any more gaskets either since the pan is off anyway. If you know the bearings and pump are fine or know that it has low miles, lifting it from the top would be good but you will have the engine lift legs under the truck to fight with. You could lift the engine up with a cherry picker and then place the blocks under the mounts like you do with a jack underneath, less chance of denting the pan up to.

[67chevemall]

What he^ said!

[DennyB]

Originally Posted by buckola

I suspect I'll have to un button all the exhaust, tranny linkage etc. Right?

The best thing to do is as 72C203503ONTHETREE said.
But if your just goint to replace the gasket then what your doing will work.
Just chek clearance of the dizzy and fan shroud as was stated before.
Your exaust should be able to move with the engine, not sure about the tranny link.
I did this a couple of months ago on my ford. Feelpro had a great 1 piece gasket for my ford and should for your Chevy too.
The sides were metal plates with the orange rubber moulded around them then just rubber at the main bearings.
Every needs to be clean and dry and no sealant is used.
It worked like a charm!
The Kit even came 4 plastic clip/screws that screwed into the bolt holes and allowed the gasket and pan to be held into position while you start all the other bolts.
It worked real slick.
I got my gasket on line shipped for less than any of the part stores sold the cheep old rubber gasket for.
I will see if I can dig up a link for you.

[DennyB]

I could not find the link to where I bought mine.

Here is a link to jegs

http://www.jegs.com/cgi-bin/ncommerc...16&prmenbr=361

I think the one you want is 375-1885.
Call to confirm

looks something like this..