Correct order of bleeding brakes for 1968 Chevy C10

[72LB]

Originally Posted by HeavyHauler

What is the correct order for brake bleeding a 1968 Chevy C10? I am bleeding them in this order but have not had success in getting a firm pedal. I did bench bleed the master cylinder before installing it.

1)Driver rear
2)Passenger rear
3)Passenger front
4)Driver front

I was always told start with the wheel furthest away from the MC. Sure you got all the air out of the MC? What about the prop valve, was it replaced?

1)Passenger rear
2)Driver rear
3)Passenger front
4)Driver front

[Happy_dan]

Originally Posted by 72LB

I was always told start with the wheel furthest away from the MC. Sure you got all the air out of the MC? What about the prop valve, was it replaced?

1)Passenger rear
2)Driver rear
3)Passenger front
4)Driver front

This is true if the brake line runs from the master down the driver side of the truck. I am not sure if it's different between a C-10 and a C-20. On my C-20 the driver side rear is furthest run from the master because the brake line runs down the passenger side. Hope that makes sense.

[LockDoc]

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It all begins with adjustment of the brake shoes.

On the drum brakes, one thing I found on mine is when you put everything back together and adjust the brake shoes you can’t just adjust them out until they start rubbing and quit. You have to adjust them out as far as they will go and you cannot turn the wheel or drum at all. This centers the whole assembly in the drum. (I even tap around the drum as I tighten them to help them center themselves) Then you back them off until the wheel or drum just turns, and stop. If you only adjust them out until they start rubbing and quit, the first time you press on the brake pedal the brake shoe assemblies will center themselves and you will have too much clearance between the shoes and the brake drum. If there is too much travel in the shoes the pedal will go down too far before the shoes contact the drums. I also put three lug nuts on backwards to hold the drum tight against the axle on the rear before I adjust them.

I know it is a pain in the butt to try and hold the self adjusters off of the adjuster wheel while you back them off, but this is the only way I could get my drum brake shoes adjusted correctly.

LockDoc

[ltdmstr]

Originally Posted by LockDoc

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It all begins with adjustment of the brake shoes.

On the drum brakes, one thing I found on mine is when you put everything back together and adjust the brake shoes you can’t just adjust them out until they start rubbing and quit. You have to adjust them out as far as they will go and you cannot turn the wheel or drum at all. This centers the whole assembly in the drum. (I even tap around the drum as I tighten them to help them center themselves) Then you back them off until the wheel or drum just turns, and stop. If you only adjust them out until they start rubbing and quit, the first time you press on the brake pedal the brake shoe assemblies will center themselves and you will have too much clearance between the shoes and the brake drum. If there is too much travel in the shoes the pedal will go down too far before the shoes contact the drums. I also put three lug nuts on backwards to hold the drum tight against the axle on the rear before I adjust them.

I know it is a pain in the butt to try and hold the self adjusters off of the adjuster wheel while you back them off, but this is the only way I could get my drum brake shoes adjusted correctly.

LockDoc

I'm reassembling the back half of my truck right now ('68 SWB) with new brake parts, and neither the drums nor the backing plates have access holes for the brake adjusters. So I don't see any way to adjust them with the drums on. I set the shoes out as far as I can while still being able to install the drums. Am I missing something? Seems like this is the best I can do under the circumstances.

[LockDoc]

Originally Posted by ltdmstr

I'm reassembling the back half of my truck right now ('68 SWB) with new brake parts, and neither the drums nor the backing plates have access holes for the brake adjusters. So I don't see any way to adjust them with the drums on. I set the shoes out as far as I can while still being able to install the drums. Am I missing something? Seems like this is the best I can do under the circumstances.

The adjuster slot location is marked on most of the backing plates but is not punched out. It looks like you might be able to punch them out but you can't. I drill all of mine as "7tee" mentioned.

LockDoc