Engine building tips.. - The 1947 - Present Chevrolet & GMC Truck Message Board Network

bluex · 06-19-2004, 07:09 AM

Lay them on me guys, I'm getting my block back on monday, got my summit order yesterday. I hope to assemble the block fri/sat and get it and the tranny installed in the truck sunday. I want to get the bare block and tranny in the truck tues so I can move the crossmember and measure for my driveshaft so I wont be waiting on that.

Oh, this will be my first build, so I dont know much. I still have to go to sears and get a ring compressor and feeler guages. I have the specs and stuff in my chiltons manual (I think), so you can leave those out.

Thanks!
Paul

bluex · 06-25-2004, 02:56 PM

BUMP......

So no one on here rebuilds there own engines?? Looking to get started on it tomorrow, so anyone thats wants to come help is welcome, I might even pay for your gas and buy lunch!!

BodyShopDropOut12 · 06-25-2004, 04:20 PM

Don't know much about it myself. But if it's still open invitation, I'll come for free(bring my own sack lunch)

and watch also how it's done.

PHOENIX · 06-25-2004, 04:38 PM

I never done it myself, but I know there are things you need to know and some tools youll need that you might not have.
I suggest buying a book for the engine you plan to rebuilt and follow the step by step instructions. You need to make sure things are installed correctly and clearances are correct for that application.

TwinTurbo · 06-25-2004, 06:48 PM

Get some books and read them before even starting on the engine. General tips would be to work as clean as you can and be as precise as you can be. Measure everything, don't guess. Take your time and convince yourself every step is done right and it will work out most of the time. Be sure to have all necessary gaskets, a tube of black RTV, thread sealer, moly lube and/or cam break in lube, WD40, clean rags and your measuring instruments at hand. Clean everything, don't forget the crank oil holes, do remove all plugs (maybe shop already did that?)
Use all recommended torque specs, check that you have the right specs for your assembly method (oiled parts, assembly lube,..there is a difference)

Make sure you properly index all rings on the pistons, asemble them beforehand and set them away. Number them all and write an arrow on the piston to make sure you know what the front is.

It pays off to pay attention to little thigns, like cleaning out the oil return passages (sand gets trapped there), radiusing the returns in the valley so less oil collects in the rocker boxes, profiling and enlarging the pump and rear cap ares, so oil can flow into the engine more smoothly.

I'll come help if you pay the airfare

SanitysBane · 06-25-2004, 08:38 PM

i've done about 3 just follow the shop manual, check for clearence on the crank and rods using plastigage. about it

PhilaTruck · 06-25-2004, 10:02 PM

Twin turbo is right-on. David Vizard has a book outlining engine building techniques. Very organized. You also might want to post in the engines & drivetrain category. http://67-72chevytrucks.com/vboard/f...?s=&forumid=24

Bowtie4by · 06-25-2004, 11:17 PM

If you're building a small block throw away the end seals for the intake manifold and use a bead of RTV instead. All those seals do is cause trouble. Good luck!

06-19-2004, 07:09 AM	#1
bluex Registered User Join Date: Jun 2004 Location: Spartanburg, SC Posts: 1,963	Engine building tips.. Lay them on me guys, I'm getting my block back on monday, got my summit order yesterday. I hope to assemble the block fri/sat and get it and the tranny installed in the truck sunday. I want to get the bare block and tranny in the truck tues so I can move the crossmember and measure for my driveshaft so I wont be waiting on that. Oh, this will be my first build, so I dont know much. I still have to go to sears and get a ring compressor and feeler guages. I have the specs and stuff in my chiltons manual (I think), so you can leave those out. Thanks! Paul __________________ Paul '78 GMC Serria 15 Heavy Half. 361/NV3500/3.73. Former LWB NV3500 swap Trailing arm swap '98 ECSB Z71 daily driver -traded '03 burb. Family cruiser http://upstategmtrucks.com/

06-25-2004, 02:56 PM	#2
bluex Registered User Join Date: Jun 2004 Location: Spartanburg, SC Posts: 1,963	BUMP...... So no one on here rebuilds there own engines?? Looking to get started on it tomorrow, so anyone thats wants to come help is welcome, I might even pay for your gas and buy lunch!! __________________ Paul '78 GMC Serria 15 Heavy Half. 361/NV3500/3.73. Former LWB NV3500 swap Trailing arm swap '98 ECSB Z71 daily driver -traded '03 burb. Family cruiser http://upstategmtrucks.com/

06-25-2004, 04:38 PM	#4
PHOENIX Registered User Join Date: Oct 2002 Location: Phoenix, Arizona Posts: 4,703	I never done it myself, but I know there are things you need to know and some tools youll need that you might not have. I suggest buying a book for the engine you plan to rebuilt and follow the step by step instructions. You need to make sure things are installed correctly and clearances are correct for that application. __________________ * AVOID: LOPER'S PERMORANCE / LOPERSPEED.COM OF PHOENIX, AZ & COTTMAN TRANSMISSION *

06-25-2004, 08:38 PM	#6
SanitysBane Registered User Join Date: May 2004 Location: Lubbock, Texas Posts: 2,121	i've done about 3 just follow the shop manual, check for clearence on the crank and rods using plastigage. about it __________________ '96 Nissan Pathfinder '02 Firebird Trans Am. '88 K5 Blazer

06-25-2004, 10:02 PM	#7
PhilaTruck Right on the line, baby! Join Date: Oct 2003 Location: Phila, PA 19130 Posts: 1,486	Twin turbo is right-on. David Vizard has a book outlining engine building techniques. Very organized. You also might want to post in the engines & drivetrain category. http://67-72chevytrucks.com/vboard/f...?s=&forumid=24 __________________ 83 GMC 406 th400/3.73 Eaton Truetrac posi, headers, x pipe, & racePros. Tubular control arms, lowering rear springs, caltracs. Still ugly, but getting built right, although slowly Click and scroll down for site vendors! Subscribe here!

06-25-2004, 04:20 PM	#3
BodyShopDropOut12 9 months Join Date: May 2004 Location: Gahanna, OH/Jacksonville, AR Posts: 430	Don't know much about it myself. But if it's still open invitation, I'll come for free(bring my own sack lunch) and watch also how it's done.

06-25-2004, 06:48 PM	#5
TwinTurbo Registered User Join Date: Sep 2003 Location: The Netherlands Posts: 994	Get some books and read them before even starting on the engine. General tips would be to work as clean as you can and be as precise as you can be. Measure everything, don't guess. Take your time and convince yourself every step is done right and it will work out most of the time. Be sure to have all necessary gaskets, a tube of black RTV, thread sealer, moly lube and/or cam break in lube, WD40, clean rags and your measuring instruments at hand. Clean everything, don't forget the crank oil holes, do remove all plugs (maybe shop already did that?) Use all recommended torque specs, check that you have the right specs for your assembly method (oiled parts, assembly lube,..there is a difference) Make sure you properly index all rings on the pistons, asemble them beforehand and set them away. Number them all and write an arrow on the piston to make sure you know what the front is. It pays off to pay attention to little thigns, like cleaning out the oil return passages (sand gets trapped there), radiusing the returns in the valley so less oil collects in the rocker boxes, profiling and enlarging the pump and rear cap ares, so oil can flow into the engine more smoothly. I'll come help if you pay the airfare

06-25-2004, 11:17 PM	#8
Bowtie4by Registered User Join Date: May 2004 Location: E-town KY Posts: 43	If you're building a small block throw away the end seals for the intake manifold and use a bead of RTV instead. All those seals do is cause trouble. Good luck!



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