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#1 |
Registered User
Join Date: Nov 2010
Location: calgary alberta
Posts: 8,499
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Re: Power into doors
those should work. they look like they need a good sized hole cut though, possibly square to accommodate the housing of the switch, so ensure you pick a spot that won't affect the integrity of the surrounding area strength. the spot where mr48 suggests might be a good one if the switch is waterproof.
could you also possibly use a magnetically operated switch similar to a window or door switch used for alarm systems? no contact needed just close proximity. I know we have used them in our fire apparatus for locker doors etc. possibly a cabinet lighting switch? just spitballing here. |
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#2 |
Senior Member
![]() Join Date: Sep 2017
Location: Bryan, Texas
Posts: 2,434
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Re: Power into doors
Raven, I don't know anything about the switches you mentioned. I would rather not cut into the metal, but I haven't found an automotive switch that would keep me from doing that.
I was hoping others would share what they did, I know I'm not the first to do electric door locks or windows. I got one of the stainless tube door to frame looms, but it will not work with the 48 door because of the way it swings. Ogre's build has a a unit that he built that will work, but I don't know how to build it. So come Monday, I think I'll call the seller and ask some questions about the ones I posted to see if I want to try them. In the mean time, if there are more ideas, I'm open. I'm putting stuff on the truck in a test fit, making sure all the holes are in the right places and that I can get it all together, so I have some time.
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8man-aka Robert 1948 on a S10 Frame, small block with a carb 1954 Cab, 53 Front and Bed, 50 Doors, S10 Frame, Power TBD Build thread: "]http://67-72chevytrucks.com/vboard/showthread.php?t=746899&highlight=wife%27s+48[/URL] [/URL]http://67-72chevytrucks.com/vboard/showthread.php?t=840204 |
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#3 |
Registered User
Join Date: Nov 2010
Location: calgary alberta
Posts: 8,499
|
Re: Power into doors
I guess it all depends on where you mount them for weathering the elements. an original door switch for, say, a square body would be mounted inside the weather seal on the door or would have a rubber bellows seal around the exterior push pin part so it wouldn't see water etc with the door closed. some newer style switches are mounted outside the weather seal but are waterproof on that side of the switch with the wiring being inside the vehicle. scroll through the video here till it shows the actual switch for a ford and how it is sealed outside but has the wiring inside the cab. it is a lot like the ones you pictured but has a large hole compared to some of the older style stuff with a smaller threaded hole in the actual jamb.
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=0KR0HeS6-7k here is a site that shows a few different automotive style push pin switches https://www.alibaba.com/product-deta...546044611.html some will have 2 wires which normally means the switch is not grounded so one wire would go to ground and the other would go to the light. here is one from an 06 Colorado. not sure on the electrical connection but possibly you could find one that is weatherproof on the connector. then a spot like the one suggested by mr48 would work well because it is a more straight on hit when the door closes and no wiring needs to go through a hinge point. https://www.rockauto.com/en/moreinfo...%2F%2B4A%3D%3D |
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#4 |
Registered User
Join Date: Jun 2017
Location: upper midwest
Posts: 1,129
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Re: Power into doors
I used simple switches in the door jamb wired using the MAD schematic. The courtesy lights are mounted under the dash at each corner. The dome and courtesy lights come on automatically when a door is opened or the dome is turned on with the headlight switch.
Lower on the jamb is the spring loaded contact for the door solenoids. |
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