New style tailgate supports? - The 1947 - Present Chevrolet & GMC Truck Message Board Network

mocwon · 06-15-2004, 01:53 PM

Has anyone tried to retrofit the newer "cable" style tailgate supports rather than using the steel strap ones that came on the fleet trucks? The cable style looks cleaner to me and won't get chipped up or rusted like the original style.

FRENCHBLUE72 · 06-15-2004, 04:22 PM

I have never heard or seen of someone using them on our style of truck's.. BTW those cable's are under recall...

mocwon · 06-15-2004, 04:35 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by FRENCHBLUE72

I have never heard or seen of someone using them on our style of truck's.. BTW those cable's are under recall...

Do you know which model and year?

FRENCHBLUE72 · 06-15-2004, 04:44 PM

1999-2004 appp 3.7 millon chevy and gmc truck's are recalled to replace the cable's...

mocwon · 06-15-2004, 05:31 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by FRENCHBLUE72

1999-2004 appp 3.7 millon chevy and gmc truck's are recalled to replace the cable's...

Thanks for the info!!
If I end up going this route I'll be sure to stay away from those years.

sactoC10 · 06-16-2004, 10:17 AM

When I had my old 1955 F100 a couple of years ago, I made this conversion. I grabbed some Ford Ranger cables from a salvage yard and the related mounting hardware. I plan on doing the same thing again when I get the gate installed on my 71, for the same reasons you mentioned. No paint chipping, no scratching, sleeker look and design. I'll post pics when I get it done and let you know what the "donor" vehicle was. Probably won't get to this until the end of the summer.

**CPNE** · 06-16-2004, 10:27 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by FRENCHBLUE72

1999-2004 appp 3.7 millon chevy and gmc truck's are recalled to replace the cable's...

I believe corrosion inside the cable "boot" can cause it to fail under heavy load. Now when are they going to recall all the 67-72's whose cab mounts, bodies and frames failed due to "corrosion"?

mocwon · 06-16-2004, 11:58 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by sactoC10

When I had my old 1955 F100 a couple of years ago, I made this conversion. I grabbed some Ford Ranger cables from a salvage yard and the related mounting hardware. I plan on doing the same thing again when I get the gate installed on my 71, for the same reasons you mentioned. No paint chipping, no scratching, sleeker look and design. I'll post pics when I get it done and let you know what the "donor" vehicle was. Probably won't get to this until the end of the summer.

Thanks, I look forward to the information. I have pretty much made up my mind I want to do the conversion exactly the same way you described.

sactoC10 · 06-16-2004, 05:50 PM

I'll see if I can find some pics of my orginal transplant in the meantime...

Bowtie67 · 06-16-2004, 05:55 PM

I have often thought about it as well for the same reasons as sactoC10 mentioned.

mocwon · 06-28-2004, 12:26 PM

This turned out to be an easy modification. I will post pictures later this week but here's what I did:

Parts needed for changing tailgate support straps to cables:
One (1) Ford tailgate cable # F37Z9943052A list price - $ 14.53
One (1) Ford tailgate cable # F37Z9943053A list price - $ 14.53
Two (2) Ford tailgate bolts # N806909S100 list price - $ 2.11
Two (2) 3/8”x 2” bolts (NC thread pitch) with washer integrated into head. You may have to cut threads to the length needed.
Two (2) 3/8” nuts (NC thread pitch) with integrated washer
Two (2) 3/8” flat cut washers thick enough to move cable end past the bedside end
Two (2) 3/8” flat cut washers thick enough to move cable end past the tailgate slot

Procedure for modifying parts:
Grind rivet off metal factory strap where in attaches to tail gate latch and remove strap.

Cut off the portion of the tailgate support stub flush with the large diameter of round stub.

Drill and tap a 8mm X 1.25 hole through the center of the stub of each side of the tailgate.

Thread the 3/8” nut with the integrated washer onto the 3/8” bolt with the washer facing the head of the bolt. Thread it down until there is just enough space for the cable end to fit in the space provided.

Install the washer and bolt, above, in the bottom hole of the latch keeper on the bed.

Cut off excess bolt inside backup light pocket.

Put the Ford metric bolt through the other end of the cable and thread it into hole that was drill and tapped into the end of the tailgate.

If necessary, grind head of bolt on bedside latch so it will clear bolt in tailgate.

06-15-2004, 01:53 PM	#1
mocwon Keep On Truckin' Join Date: Mar 2003 Location: Buda, Texas Posts: 1,354	New style tailgate support cables Has anyone tried to retrofit the newer "cable" style tailgate supports rather than using the steel strap ones that came on the fleet trucks? The cable style looks cleaner to me and won't get chipped up or rusted like the original style. __________________ Just Passin' Thru Some projects are like herding cats; others are like putting out fires; this one was like herding cats on fire..... Last edited by mocwon; 06-28-2004 at 02:39 PM.

06-16-2004, 05:55 PM	#10
Bowtie67 Registered User Join Date: Jan 2004 Location: NH Posts: 2,266	I have often thought about it as well for the same reasons as sactoC10 mentioned. __________________ 1967 C10 - SWBSS Pro Street 427sbc, 700R4 & 4.10 Gears 1948 Chevy FleetMaster Coupe, LS1, (almost done) 1950 Chevy StyleLine Coupe 250/6 3x2 Dueces 2009 Toyota Tundra 1996 Harley RoadKing "I maybe getting old, but I can still burn rubber with the best of them"

06-28-2004, 12:26 PM	#11
mocwon Keep On Truckin' Join Date: Mar 2003 Location: Buda, Texas Posts: 1,354	This turned out to be an easy modification. I will post pictures later this week but here's what I did: Parts needed for changing tailgate support straps to cables: One (1) Ford tailgate cable # F37Z9943052A list price - $ 14.53 One (1) Ford tailgate cable # F37Z9943053A list price - $ 14.53 Two (2) Ford tailgate bolts # N806909S100 list price - $ 2.11 Two (2) 3/8”x 2” bolts (NC thread pitch) with washer integrated into head. You may have to cut threads to the length needed. Two (2) 3/8” nuts (NC thread pitch) with integrated washer Two (2) 3/8” flat cut washers thick enough to move cable end past the bedside end Two (2) 3/8” flat cut washers thick enough to move cable end past the tailgate slot Procedure for modifying parts: Grind rivet off metal factory strap where in attaches to tail gate latch and remove strap. Cut off the portion of the tailgate support stub flush with the large diameter of round stub. Drill and tap a 8mm X 1.25 hole through the center of the stub of each side of the tailgate. Thread the 3/8” nut with the integrated washer onto the 3/8” bolt with the washer facing the head of the bolt. Thread it down until there is just enough space for the cable end to fit in the space provided. Install the washer and bolt, above, in the bottom hole of the latch keeper on the bed. Cut off excess bolt inside backup light pocket. Put the Ford metric bolt through the other end of the cable and thread it into hole that was drill and tapped into the end of the tailgate. If necessary, grind head of bolt on bedside latch so it will clear bolt in tailgate. __________________ Just Passin' Thru Some projects are like herding cats; others are like putting out fires; this one was like herding cats on fire.....

06-15-2004, 04:22 PM	#2
FRENCHBLUE72 PROJECT 7DEUCE Join Date: Dec 2002 Location: GRANTS PASS OR Posts: 21,606	I have never heard or seen of someone using them on our style of truck's.. BTW those cable's are under recall...

06-15-2004, 04:44 PM	#4
FRENCHBLUE72 PROJECT 7DEUCE Join Date: Dec 2002 Location: GRANTS PASS OR Posts: 21,606	1999-2004 appp 3.7 millon chevy and gmc truck's are recalled to replace the cable's...

06-16-2004, 10:17 AM	#6
sactoC10 71 DELUX Join Date: Sep 2003 Location: Northern CA / Sac Posts: 1,055	When I had my old 1955 F100 a couple of years ago, I made this conversion. I grabbed some Ford Ranger cables from a salvage yard and the related mounting hardware. I plan on doing the same thing again when I get the gate installed on my 71, for the same reasons you mentioned. No paint chipping, no scratching, sleeker look and design. I'll post pics when I get it done and let you know what the "donor" vehicle was. Probably won't get to this until the end of the summer.

06-16-2004, 05:50 PM	#9
sactoC10 71 DELUX Join Date: Sep 2003 Location: Northern CA / Sac Posts: 1,055	I'll see if I can find some pics of my orginal transplant in the meantime...



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