Vapor Lock issue

[custom10nut]

Does anyone else have a Vapor Lock issue with an Edelbrock carb?
The truck will stall if it sits too long at idle and won’t start again until it’s cooled down some
It’s a 1406, and I do use the insulating spacer between the manifold and carb.
Along with the Temp Gauge circus, this is just another irritating issue that started earlier this year

[geezer#99]

Could be flooding a touch due to too high fuel pressure. Eddy carbs like 5 psi. Now then I’m sure 6 guys will post that there carb isn’t sensitive to fuel pressure.
I always had problems with pressure.
If it’s not flooding a touch it should sit and idle all day.
You could try lowering the floats too. Try dropping them 1/8 inch.

[custom10nut]

I’ll try your suggestion.
I have a pressure regulator installed so it’ll be quick and easy to do.
Could a LEAN condition cause this?
To add more details.
It starts up fine and idles perfectly until it gets up to operation temp. I can drive around all day without a problem, even shutting down to go in a store or something. Then after sitting at idle for say 15 minutes (could be longer, as I’ve not timed it), it shuts off, and then won’t start again until the engine cools down.
It acts like there’s no gas in the float bowls. After it cools down, it starts right up and runs fine again.
Any suggestions?

[geezer#99]

Sounds more like the module in your hei.
Assuming you have an hei of course.

[hamjet]

I had something similar, if I let it sit and idle in the summer for about 5-8 minutes, it would start breaking down and skipping or missing on cylinders and stall, as if it were flooding. but if I could keep it running long enough to start moving down the road it would start running better till all was fine. I know it wasn't flooding, so I assumed it was boiling the gas/ alcohol fuel in the carb bowl. I do now have phenolic spacers under the carbs, but haven't let it idle long yet to see if it was the problem. I believe you are experiencing the same problem...

[firedemon]

its easy to check if its flooding or boiling off and empty , open the aircleaner and move the throttle . other wise were all just guessing

[custom10nut]

So one detail ii didn’t mention, was that I’m using a pressure regulator between the fuel pump and carb.
I think I had it adjusted wrong, because I went out and adjusted it one way, and it died. So I moved it back and started it again. Next I started adjusting the other way and the further I adjusted it, better it ran. After I was done, I adjusted the idle screws and idle speed. Now it runs great, And doesn’t stall when it gets warmed up.
It appears that it was just starving for fuel at idle.

[vics stuff]

I had a similar issue with my 72 with a stock 350. It ended up being the fuel pump was tired. Installed a NOS pump and no more issues.
Vic

[j_cst_10]

Look down the primary barrels of the carb when it's running and make sure it is not leaking or spitting fuel out of the boosters. It should be running off the idle circuit only and the barrels should appear dry.

If there is fuel coming out of the primary boosters at idle it will load up, run poorly and stall making it difficult to restart unless you crank at WOT.

If boosters are leaking reasons could be:
-Too high of fuel pressure - needle and seat cannot overcome pressure
-float height set improperly
-failed or sticking needle and seat
-improper ignition timing. Throttle blades are open too far via idle adjustment screw and this allows too much vacuum signal. Fuel is pushed out of the primary circuit.