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#1 |
Senior Member
![]() Join Date: Jan 2007
Location: Turlock, CA
Posts: 8,821
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driveshaft / yoke question
My driveshaft is currently 1 to 1.25" too short. I was going to have it lengthened, which I expect will cost me $200+ since I'll need a whole new tube.
Then I realized you can buy longer slip yokes. Seems like it will work, but I am wondering if anyone is aware of a problem I might encounter. The yoke currently sits 2" out from fully inserted in the trans, meaning only about 1.75" of spline engagement by my measurements. I think I can buy this yoke which is about 1.25" longer, which should result in the yoke sitting about 0.75" out from fully inserted in the trans, and around 3" of spline engagement: https://www.summitracing.com/parts/axe-lt675 What's wrong with this? Will I have issues with it bottoming out in the trans? Will it cause any vibration or unusual loading on the tail shaft?
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Project "C10 Fever" (68 factory black 396 swb) Project “Faded Glory” (71 c10 med bronze original paint refresh) Project "Little Sister" (70 c10 blue original paint refresh) Project "Blue Bomb" (70 c30 blue original paint refresh) SOLD Project "Vitamin C" (71 c10 orange original paint refresh) SOLD |
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#2 |
Senior Member
![]() Join Date: Nov 2018
Location: Waterford California
Posts: 2,699
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Re: driveshaft / yoke question
1" out on the splines is the norm .75 won't bottom out with stock suspension articulation but may or may not give you enough extra slide inward to make the ujoint slide in at ride height. Nothing a floor jack can't overcome.
Last edited by Sheepdip; 07-20-2020 at 12:39 AM. |
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#3 |
Senior Member
![]() Join Date: Jan 2007
Location: Turlock, CA
Posts: 8,821
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Re: driveshaft / yoke question
Yeah, I'm 2" out now, so I think the extra 1.25" on the yoke should put me in the right spot.
__________________
Project "C10 Fever" (68 factory black 396 swb) Project “Faded Glory” (71 c10 med bronze original paint refresh) Project "Little Sister" (70 c10 blue original paint refresh) Project "Blue Bomb" (70 c30 blue original paint refresh) SOLD Project "Vitamin C" (71 c10 orange original paint refresh) SOLD |
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#4 |
Registered User
Join Date: Jun 2002
Location: Tucson AZ by way of WI & CA
Posts: 517
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Re: driveshaft / yoke question
Slide the yoke all the way until it stops, then pull it out 1" and get the driveshaft made to fit. If the longer yoke, which has the largest mass is not balanced, you may be going thru seals left and right. When was the last time you replaced the u-joints? Lots of driveline places in Turlock, so shop around and do it right the first time.
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#5 |
Post Whore
![]() Join Date: Feb 2016
Location: Portland Oregon
Posts: 11,605
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Re: driveshaft / yoke question
__________________
Thanks to Bob and Jeanie and everyone else at Superior Performance for all their great help. ![]() RIP Bob Parks. 1967 Burban (the WMB),1988 S10 Blazer (the Stink10 II),1969 GTO (the Goat), 1970 Javelin, 1952 F2 Ford OHC six 4X4, 29 Model A, 72 Firebird (the DBP Bird). 85 Alfa Romeo If it breaks I didn't want it in the first place The WMB repair thread http://67-72chevytrucks.com/vboard/s...d.php?t=698377 |
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#6 |
Senior Member
![]() Join Date: Jan 2007
Location: Turlock, CA
Posts: 8,821
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Re: driveshaft / yoke question
Thanks guys. This is helpful. It made sense in my head but I suspected there might be a downside. Glad I asked, it needs to be done right. I'll have to pony up the cash.
I sketched this up to scale to get my mind around it (I'm a visual guy) and I can see how this might add balance/vibration/seal issues. I also added a snip from the link provided for anyone else thinking about this in the future.
__________________
Project "C10 Fever" (68 factory black 396 swb) Project “Faded Glory” (71 c10 med bronze original paint refresh) Project "Little Sister" (70 c10 blue original paint refresh) Project "Blue Bomb" (70 c30 blue original paint refresh) SOLD Project "Vitamin C" (71 c10 orange original paint refresh) SOLD |
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#7 |
Post Whore
![]() Join Date: Feb 2016
Location: Portland Oregon
Posts: 11,605
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Re: driveshaft / yoke question
I think if you added the output shaft to your drawings it would help it make sense. As it is I can see how when the drive shaft begins to jump rope how that action would affect an over extended yoke. It believe the the problem is how much unsupported splined area there is and how that might distort at RPM under load.
__________________
Thanks to Bob and Jeanie and everyone else at Superior Performance for all their great help. ![]() RIP Bob Parks. 1967 Burban (the WMB),1988 S10 Blazer (the Stink10 II),1969 GTO (the Goat), 1970 Javelin, 1952 F2 Ford OHC six 4X4, 29 Model A, 72 Firebird (the DBP Bird). 85 Alfa Romeo If it breaks I didn't want it in the first place The WMB repair thread http://67-72chevytrucks.com/vboard/s...d.php?t=698377 |
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#8 |
Registered User
Join Date: Oct 2010
Location: Ocean Springs, MS
Posts: 1,746
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Re: driveshaft / yoke question
I had the same issue (driveshaft too short) and I few years ago I came up with the idea of a longer slip yoke for more spline engagement. I bought one and found it was actually a little too long, so I cut a little off the end and smoothed it out. I installed it and never had any problems. I agree a new longer driveshaft would be better, but I didn't have any trouble with the longer yoke.
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Gary 1971 Chevrolet C/10 1951 GMC 100 1977 GMC C15 1955 Chevrolet 3100 |
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