After market stereo

[bigd65]

any know the wiring for putting an after market stereo in a 2004 Silverado. I cannot find a switched 12 v power... the only ones I can find are the yellow CONTANT POWER... the other, the light flickers on a test light.

[Palf70Step]

This is what I used for reference in my 06 and 07.

[bigd65]

Thanks, that's what I figured. All I could find was a signaled wire... I had a stereo in there that the display went out. I replaced it, but found 2 other added components has to do with the signaled wire and steering wheel controls. Know anything about those?

[bigd65]

where did you find a switch 12 volt... the fuse blocks don't have accessory spots anymore

[Palf70Step]

Ignition....you can also get one of the adapter kits that keeps the door ajar and other beeper noises running thru ur radio. I believe that is where they normally get the switched voltage input from

https://www.sonicelectronix.com/item...-GM2000SW.html

[EVRLET]

I don’t know if these will help. I can take a picture of other items in the manual if you’re looking for something else.

[EVRLET]

More

[EVRLET]

Kind of blurry but if you need clearer pics, let me know of which one.

[bigd65]

Originally Posted by Palf70Step

Ignition....you can also get one of the adapter kits that keeps the door ajar and other beeper noises running thru ur radio. I believe that is where they normally get the switched voltage input from

https://www.sonicelectronix.com/item...-GM2000SW.html

Yep, I have one made by AXXESS.... I just can't really figure out the wiring for that part.

[hatzie]

Whatever you do don't butcher the vehicle harness by cutting off the GM plug. There's Class II serial data in that radio plug for the warning chimes among other things you don't want to have just floating loose in the dash behind the radio.

I used a pigtail from Metra. They're one of may manufacturers of these. There are several manufacturers that make vehicle specific pigtails to plug right into the OEM radio plug.
They cost somewhere between $6 and $15 US.
The pigtails plug into the GM radio plug and they come with fairly decent instructions on the bag for connecting the adapter pigtail to the aftermarket radio pigtail.
I usually solder and heatshrink the connections between the Metra and (Sony, JVC, Kenwood, Alpine, Blaupunkt, Grundig, Etc) pigtails and heatshrink over the ends of the un-used wires to make sure they don't make electrical contact with anything.
Once have your adapter harness made up it just plugs into the GM cab harness radio plug and away you go.

[bigd65]

Originally Posted by hatzie

Whatever you do don't butcher the vehicle harness by cutting off the GM plug. There's Class II serial data in that radio plug for the warning chimes among other things you don't want to have just floating loose in the dash behind the radio.

I used a pigtail from Metra. They're one of may manufacturers of these. There are several manufacturers that make vehicle specific pigtails to plug right into the OEM radio plug.
They cost somewhere between $6 and $15 US.
The pigtails plug into the GM radio plug and they come with fairly decent instructions on the bag for connecting the adapter pigtail to the aftermarket radio pigtail.
I usually solder and heatshrink the connections between the Metra and (Sony, JVC, Kenwood, Alpine, Blaupunkt, Grundig, Etc) pigtails and heatshrink over the ends of the un-used wires to make sure they don't make electrical contact with anything.
Once have your adapter harness made up it just plugs into the GM cab harness radio plug and away you go.

I agree, I am not a fan of cutting any factory plugs. It had a KENWOOD in it, but the screen went out. It was probably going out long ago. The blue tooth music would take a long time to connect.

I already installed another stereo but without those other attachments. I just hooked the switched power together with the constant YELLOW Wire... but now I get the engine whining noise, so thats not going to work... I think I need to figure those other added connections. I'm guessing that where the SIGNAL WIRE hooks. I have an AXXESS and a PAC MODULE????

I figured there would be some professional stereo installers in here

[hatzie]

You need your PAC module wiring and setup info.
The warning chime replacer I installed has an ignition switched output along with the battery output. It provides ignition switched power even tho the vehicle does not. My guess is it switches power on by monitoring events on the Class II serial databuss. I would daresay most chime replacers do that when they're setup for this generation GM vehicle... or they should.

[bigd65]

Originally Posted by hatzie

You need your PAC module wiring and setup info.
The warning chime replacer I installed has an ignition switched output along with the battery output. It provides ignition switched power even tho the vehicle does not. My guess is it switches power on by monitoring events on the Class II serial databuss. I would daresay most chime replacers do that when they're setup for this generation GM vehicle... or they should.

Thank you... I think that clears things up except there is a plug, looks like the small headphone plug. It says if you don't have the opposite side then it provides it and says to plug 1 of the wires somewhere, I can't figure that one out....

[hatzie]

Do you have the model number of your PAC module?
The PDF installation manual might be enlightening or it may be just Chinglish gibberish. Only know if you look.

[bigd65]

Originally Posted by hatzie

Do you have the model number of your PAC module?
The PDF installation manual might be enlightening or it may be just Chinglish gibberish. Only know if you look.

No, and out of town until Thursday

[70cst]

Good info ...

[bigd65]

Ok..evidently. my PAC MODULE is bad... I am not getting power out it on THE RED WIRE (switched +)... I took it apart and found a spot where it evidently loses connection. If I touch it with a test light, I can get a ding from the radio, then it say GOOD BYE...

SO....now I'm wondering what the AXXESS really does.... if its just for steering wheel controls, then I don't need it...

[hatzie]

Usually they replace the warning chimes for things like leaving the headlamps on, and oil pressure or temp wildly out of whack among other things.
And they create the ignition on power for the radio.

[bigd65]

So what does the ASSESS MODULE DO....

[hatzie]

My crystal ball support license has lapsed so I can't see into the dash in your truck.
Without input from you I don't know exactly which ones you have so I can't comment on specifics just general info...

AXXESS talks to the steering wheel control buttons.
https://axxessinterfaces.com/product...s-instructions

PAC is the chime replacement. Since the T800 uses GM Class II databuss it could be Model RP3-GM11
These provide accessory power to turn the radio on with the ignition and off when the ignition is switched off and the driver door is opened or the ignition has been switched off for 10 minutes... as well as replacing the warning chimes that the Delphi radio originally provided.
https://pac-audio.com/products/radio-replacement/

[bigd65]

Originally Posted by hatzie

My crystal ball support license has lapsed so I can't see into the dash in your truck.
Without input from you I don't know exactly which ones you have so I can't comment on specifics just general info...

AXXESS talks to the steering wheel control buttons.
https://axxessinterfaces.com/product...s-instructions

PAC is the chime replacement. Since the T800 uses GM Class II databuss it could be Model RP3-GM11
These provide accessory power to turn the radio on with the ignition and off when the ignition is switched off and the driver door is opened or the ignition has been switched off for 10 minutes... as well as replacing the warning chimes that the Delphi radio originally provided.
https://pac-audio.com/products/radio-replacement/

Well you crystal ball is crystal clear. I created another problem. I went to audio place and the guy said what they do is find an ignition wire to splice into for a switched power. Said there was a brown wire under the dash. Well as I said, I am not a fan of cutting into wires...

I found, on the fuse box in the side of the dash , a brown plug that says ( BODY , 12 WAY, BROWN ). I found and unused switched power. I had some of the very same connectors and plugged into it... had switched power. Ran the wire up to the radio. Wanted to try the radio first, ARCED THE WIRE.... now no power and can't figure out where that power would be fused or come from.... I hooked it to the bottom left corner where the plug latches..... where would that fuse be. I check all the fuses and all appears to be fine

[hatzie]

Plugging into a circuit in these newer rigs without knowing what it's fused for and what else is on that circuit is generally a very bad idea.
Depending on what you damaged it may end up that it would've been less expensive to just replace the PAC module with a new one that works properly.

IIRC. There's a 10A ignition switched circuit that's intended for aftermarket accessories in the SEO plug position of the Mid BEC down next to the column on the firewall. You can find info on the Mid BEC plug pinouts in the GM upfitters guides.

Do you have a picture of the junction block you tapped in at? I may be able to find the pinouts and possibly a fuse location in the service manual but I don't really know what you did.

[bigd65]

Originally Posted by hatzie

Plugging into a circuit in these newer rigs without knowing what it's fused for and what else is on that circuit is generally a very bad idea.
Depending on what you damaged it may end up that it would've been less expensive to just replace the PAC module with a new one that works properly.

IIRC. There's a 10A ignition switched circuit that's intended for aftermarket accessories in the SEO plug position of the Mid BEC down next to the column on the firewall. You can find info on the Mid BEC plug pinouts in the GM upfitters guides.

Do you have a picture of the junction block you tapped in at? I may be able to find the pinouts and possibly a fuse location in the service manual but I don't really know what you did.

It was an unused pin... I did end up going to the plug you referred to... UTUBE works wonders..let me see if I can post a picture.

[bigd65]

I guess it didn't post... anyway its the BODY -12 WAY- BROWN PLUG in the fuse block on the side of the dash. And use the bottom left pin. The was nothing on it... I'm not getting and CEL and everything seems to be working...