Need Help Removing 1959 Master Cylinder

[7footbed]

What is the proper procedure for removing the pedal hinge pin from a 1959 Chevrolet Apache 3/4 ton truck master cylinder? It is quite rusty and is in a remote area (must be done on a jack). After removing the retainer fork, there are two small flats on the end with the Alemite fitting. Does that mean that the pin is threaded? Truck is super rusty and using a hammer is going to be hard.
Clearance between frame and master is close.
Thanks in Advance !

[Wrenchbender Ret]

It is suppost to slide on out but like you say it is rusty. If you can't get it out underneath you can remove the pedal shaft & take the whole assembly out. Use a 3/4 in socket on a long extension & remove the nut. Put a block of wood between the arm & the floor board. With a large drift & big hammer knock the pedal out of the arm. Then you can work on it on the bench or use a press.

[7footbed]

So as I understand, the pin must be a smaller "step" diameter as it goes into the second side of the master "fork" casting, or else it would slip out the oither side?

If that's the case, I may use the two "flats" to rock the pin so it will loosen the rust, yes?

[OrrieG]

Nut holds the clip that holds the pin. Mine was stainless steel and did take a press to get out, but I had the MC out of the truck. I reused the pin on my current set up and made is a tight press fit too. Be carefull remember you are dealing with a relatively solid SS pin in cast piece. If you can get a vice grip around it so it twists that might help break it loose. a little emery cloth will help smooth the parts that have to slide thru the cast bracket. Penetrant will not hurt either.

[7footbed]

Stainless Steel.....that goes help the thought process.
The pin would have to be two different diameters, correct?
If not it would vibrate out the passenger side.

Mine must be done on the vehicle. I can't use a torch.
It's been drenched in "teflon ease" and Aerokroil.

Thanks Again

[Russell Ashley]

I thought something looked different about the image you posted but had to look at it a while to realize what it is. It is a mirror image and makes the bolt hole and lock plate appear to be on the wrong side. This is a correct view.
On my 57 3100 there is no step on the pin, it's just a tight fit. It's not much trouble to do it like Wrenchbender suggested and take the pedal arm out with the master cylinder. I did mine that way but I wanted to paint the arm anyway. I used a ball joint puller instead of the 2X4 method to remove the pedal shaft from the arm but either way works. If you really don't want to do it that way you might try to get a wrench on the flats and rotate the pin to loosen it up.

[Second Series]

I'm glad I searched for this! This is exactly what I need to know since I started to remove the master cylinder in my '55 yesterday. I'll try to get that pin out, or try a ball joint puller on the arm.

[dsraven]

if not doing a numbers matching resto maybe think about a dual master cylinder. they have a front and a rear circuit so if you blow a line you still have the other circuit to stop the truck. otherwise you better have a good E-brake.
better to remove the whole thing and get it out where you can work on it. less damage happens that way. also less knuckle bandages.....