47-55.1 DD Steering Rod wet noodle

[jweb]

Take a look at this diagram. In the drawing with a double joint, the support is next to the double joint.

Not sure if it's possible to move the double joint away from the column to the other end near the support.

Seems like your other option is a different header or manifold.

[NeoJuice]

Originally Posted by jweb

I have a similar steering set up and there was no need for a double joint at the column.

As mentioned above the standard joints are good to about 30 degrees, I don't think you need the double joint with the 2 piece shaft you have.

You could also do a rear dump header or manifold on the driver's side. I had '78 C-10 manifolds when I had a 350 in my truck

jweb,

I thought about that as well changing out the headers for the RAM horn style. I'm hoping to find a solution first before possibly having to change them out.

[NeoJuice]

Originally Posted by joedoh

ahhhh you are using it as an offset. makes sense now.

but you could use a single joint the same way, flip your heim so it is on the other side (pointing to the inner fender) and keep the same "jog" with the upper shaft.

joedoh,

Only problem with doing that is I dont have much angle between the frame and header. This is an old picture when the front of the truck was removed. See attached.

[NeoJuice]

Originally Posted by jwhotrod

the problem lies with the double joint at the top. you can have 2 joints in a shaft without support, when you add the third joint you need a support bearing. here that double joint without support close to it will be very erratic. so leave the bearing you have where it is and add another support bearing close to the double joint where the shaft turns smooth. the two bearings on that shaft will stabilize both that shaft and the lower one as well.

I hear what your saying. Add a second heim close to the double u joint at the top. Now the tricky thing is what kind of bracket can I make to support something up that high. Might have to come off the firewall.

[NeoJuice]

Originally Posted by jweb

Take a look at this diagram. In the drawing with a double joint, the support is next to the double joint.

Not sure if it's possible to move the double joint away from the column to the other end near the support.

Seems like your other option is a different header or manifold.

jweb thanks for the input, I could definitely see that as a possibility. That would be an option but the double u joint I bought was a 1"DD to 3/4"DD for the column and not 3/4 DD to 3/4 DD. Dammit!!! and to top it off these things are not cheap. I'm in Canada and paid $135 USD + shipping + exchange rate.

[joedoh]

Originally Posted by NeoJuice

joedoh,

Only problem with doing that is I dont have much angle between the frame and header. This is an old picture when the front of the truck was removed. See attached.

this is what I am talking about. also, if you are using a coupler at the rack, you could use a u joint there and get all kinds of better angles away from the header. it looks like you want your shot to be as straight as you can get it, but its not necessary, you can make it go backwards if you need to, u joints make all kinds of configurations possible.

[NeoJuice]

Joedoh,

On the rack I have a 36 spline to 3/4 DD. Again this is an old picture from assembly but I have basically a c*nt hair between the mii cross brace and the rack. I also had to use shorter set screws to get it to fit.

[joedoh]

oh, good.

what about making the lower shaft longer like my picture? you could rotate the heim 90 degrees (come up from under) and use the std u joint at the column


I am trying to find the pictures of the steering setup I used in my 41, because I needed a clutch pedal the steering column was actually moved toward the engine slightly, so I had to use a heim out and around like my picture

edit: found it, see below, went way out and then back.



edit: also jwebs picture is not like your setup, you have a movable sector at the column and at the rack, so its pivoting on the heim. you need a rigid sector like the picture.

see the coupler at the column in his picture? that is the same as not having that short shaft above the double and having the double right at the column, like you have, and you have an extra movable sector below the heim

[mr48chev]

This is one of those deals were Joedoh could probably fix it for you a lot simpler than he can tell you how to fix it.

The U joints are all in sync as shown in the drawing he posted in post 33? Same as on a driveshaft they all have to be perfectly aligned with the shaft is laying on the bench and all have to be synced with each other. I think you have it that way but can't tell for sure.

I've seen a lot of guys put a clearance notch in MII crossmembers with a filler that was often cut from a piece of round tubing.

The other thing I see is that that bracket for the heim joint may be flexing a lot. Have someone work the steering wheel while you watch it to see if it is flexing.

[mr48chev]

Even though you probably have a Kings Ransom tied up in those exhaust manifolds if it were me they would be gone and something that had a lot more clearance would be in their place. I know you don't want to read that but those are some of the bulkiest manifolds I have ever seen and the huge flanges don't help.

[NeoJuice]

I want to thank everyone for there suggestions. I'm going to try and take a closer look at it over the next couple days. I'll do some testing with some wooden dowels before I order more DD shaft and another heim.

I'll try extending the lower DD shaft option as suggested & also possibly finding another location for a second heim. I've been google image searching and found some great ideas.

If anyone else wants to input there thoughts please post. Thank you to all that contributed.

[joedoh]

yeah wood is a great idea to try it out first!

[mr48chev]

A couple of old broom handles might be the ticket there.

[_Ogre]

i'd prefer not to have that many joints in a steering shaft. think of the double joint as a short shaft, that makes your steering shaft 3 shafts. i believe your going to need to add a 2nd heim to stiffen everything up. add the 2nd heim joint to the same shaft as the 1st heim joint, move them as far apart as possible, as close to the u-joints as you can.

i agree with mongo, your support wouldn't last through the first pothole. i'd weld a bracket up with 3/8" steel and use a couple 1/2" bolts to the frame. you could probably make one bracket to capture both heim joints. i definitely wouldn't attach one to the frame and one to the cab. those move independent of each other

lose your brakes, you can always steer somewhere, lose your steering you lost control of everything. crash bang roll

[NeoJuice]

Originally Posted by _Ogre

i'd prefer not to have that many joints in a steering shaft. think of the double joint as a short shaft, that makes your steering shaft 3 shafts. i believe your going to need to add a 2nd heim to stiffen everything up. add the 2nd heim joint to the same shaft as the 1st heim joint, move them as far apart as possible, as close to the u-joints as you can.

i agree with mongo, your support wouldn't last through the first pothole. i'd weld a bracket up with 3/8" steel and use a couple 1/2" bolts to the frame. you could probably make one bracket to capture both heim joints. i definitely wouldn't attach one to the frame and one to the cab. those move independent of each other

lose your brakes, you can always steer somewhere, lose your steering you lost control of everything. crash bang roll

_Ogre,

I appreciate the advise. I hope to get some time this weekend to take a closer look at it. I know I need to add another Heim and split them apart as far as I can. The problem I'm having is trying to figure out what kind of bracket to make to support both Heim with them being so far off the frame.

Any ideas would be appreciated. I've done some google image searches and come of with some ideas but now I need to execute.

Regards,

[joedoh]

on that 41 I posted a picture of, I just used a 1x1 piece of box tube and welded a heim nut to the top of it and welded the other side to the top of the frame.

[NeoJuice]

Originally Posted by joedoh

on that 41 I posted a picture of, I just used a 1x1 piece of box tube and welded a heim nut to the top of it and welded the other side to the top of the frame.

I was thinking about using a 1.5x1.5 or 2x2 steel box tube. I would need about a 4-5" piece for the bottom heim and about a 8-10" for the top then welded or bolted to the frame. I mean it's not gonna be pretty but I need to find a solution.

[joedoh]

Originally Posted by NeoJuice

I was thinking about using a 1.5x1.5 or 2x2 steel box tube. I would need about a 4-5" piece for the bottom heim and about a 8-10" for the top then welded or bolted to the frame. I mean it's not gonna be pretty but I need to find a solution.

mine looked like the tower of sauron, i dont remember how long but that sounds about right. inelegant maybe but strong.

you can see the bottom of the box tube directly under the middle u joint

[NeoJuice]

Originally Posted by joedoh

mine looked like the tower of sauron, i dont remember how long but that sounds about right. inelegant maybe but strong.

you can see the bottom of the box tube directly under the middle u joint

Do you have any other pictures to share?

[joedoh]

i will look, I had to get that other one from the archive machine.

really it was just a 1x1 piece of tube 6-8 inches long, with a 3/4 heim nut welded to the top of it, and then welded to the frame. I think I put one gusset on it, but that was it.

[_Ogre]

i did fabrication for years, i'd start with cardboard or plywood and work from there

the kiss method is to move the bottom of your column over 3/4"
you could eliminate the double joint and use the single heim joint
no one would know except your hair dresser

[dsraven]

how about this
-remove the headers
-use a broom handle or plastic tubing or whatever to go from point A to point B with a single shaft. use the u joints you have and connect the dots with some dollar store broom handles
-see if you have room for a rear exit header or manifold or some ram horn manifolds or whatever.

like mr48 said, we understand you have cash tied up in that exhaust system but those are big headers and you need some room. better to cut your losses early and build a reliable STEERING system first than a mediocre steering system built around a finished exhaust system to save time. do it right the first time and have a well built steering system that will be dependable and last years with no issues. the exhaust can be custom built if need be, it doesn't steer or stop the vehicle.
just my 2 cents.

[vintovka]

I get a headache just looking at the bends in that setup. Are we at the point that direct electric power steering ( no connecting shafts) is possible?