Oil Pan removal just take to TDC??

[phlegm]

I Need to change my rear main and oil pan gasket on my original 350 / 3spd column setup. I keep reading where everyone is pulling these or jacking them up for clearance. I found this video, https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=2hUJQZ7ckKw , with a real cool kids channel. It looks like he just took it to TDC to get the clearance he needed. Start at about 3:12

Is that accurate?

Thanks

[tdangle]

could be. I ended up raising the engine and putting 2x4 at the motor mounts to get the clearance. Suggestion, use a Felpro 1 piece gasket. Works great.

[phlegm]

Originally Posted by tdangle

...use a Felpro 1 piece gasket. Works great.

Thats what I got!

[Ol Blue K20]

I haven't ever heard this. Interested in hearing other people's answers

[jeffahart]

I didn't watch the video, but the procedure in the manual says: unbolt mounts, raise motor, place blocks to hold up. Clocking the crank will give more room to jockey the pan out.

Do you have a 4x4? If so, watch the distributor at the firewall when you jack it up. Also, keep and eye on the fan in the shroud. You may want to unbolt the shroud.

Easy project... have fun!

j

[burnin oil]

I did my old 67 2wd by dropping the pan and rotating the crank 20 some years ago. It can be done but it is frustrating at the least. You know that it sucked since i still remember it so I say lift it and your life will be alot easier, especially if the motor is dirty. The big problem was the pan was hung up by the cradle and kept knocking the pan gasket off. The 1 piece deals that are now readily available would help here. Those plastic alignment dowels would help also.

I would just pull the engine mount bolts and jack the trans up to lift the engine. This does put alot of stress on the tailshaft mount though. You may need to pop the shift linkages off to keep them from binding if its still coloumn shifted. Also check the distributer cap for clearance. HEI and 4x4s are alot tighter to the firewall. 4x4s are alot easier since you can unbolt the crossmember and just shove it forward allowing the pan to basically drop straight down. I rolled a set of main bearings into my 72 k20 that way several years ago. Only took a few hours laying on my back in the driveway.

[jbarron]

I've done mine twice. Lifted the motor to get clearance on a 2wd. I can't see rotating the crank making enough room to get the pan out. Make sure you get the right felpro one piece gasket. There is a small and large front gasket. Only an issue if the motor was changed at some point for a newer one.

[AussieinNC]

Here is a pic detailing the pan differences ....
Make sure you get correct pan gasket...

Clocking the crank so #1 is at TDC helps with the front of pan hitting rod journals on pin 1....

[Greasey Harley]

Cool video, good to see young people turnin' wrenches

I'll continue removing my oil pans after I remove the engine.
Me and my cherry picker can have a small block swinging from a chain in about 3 hours. ...I'm getting older, maybe 4 hours now.
-Russ

[phlegm]

Ok guys, TDC doesnt help, cant get past the Fly wheel, so that must be a chassis thing specific to the later squarebodies. O well, worth a try, only lost one knuckle. So the engine has to be lifted. Did yo guys just remove the front motor mounts or the ones back at the gear box/tranny too?

[ryanv70c10]

I had tried the same thing but was not successful with a 400 small block. I had to jack the motor up an inch or so. Not a big deal.

[phlegm]

Originally Posted by ryanv70c10

I had tried the same thing but was not successful with a 400 small block. I had to jack the motor up an inch or so. Not a big deal.

Did you just unhook the front mounts or the back ones too?

[geezer#99]

When I did mine I only did the front ones.
What prep have you done to this point?
Things like distributor cap removal, jacked up on jack stands kinda prep.
I could give you a list of things to do if I knew what you’ve already done.

[phlegm]

Originally Posted by geezer#99

When I did mine I only did the front ones.
What prep have you done to this point?
Things like distributor cap removal, jacked up on jack stands kinda prep.
I could give you a list of things to do if I knew what you’ve already done.

I am really just getting started.My son pulled the oil pan bolts and took it to TDC just to see if it worked. As of now I only have the front motor mount bolts out, I am planning to pick the truck up a little so I can quick hitting my big nose, put the 4 corner bolts back on the oil pan and use a piece of wood on the bottom of it to jack it up. I need to find some 2x4 scrap to go under the block.

My HEI dist. looks like it has plenty of clearance but I am going to have to keep an eye on it. What I am worried most about is my long tube headers. they connect back at the rear motor mounts I dont know if I will have enough back there. I dont want to take them off the block again if I dont have to, AC cab and I have taken those on and off a few times as I learned how to do different things.

At some point I am also planning to win the lottery, not so someone else will do it but so I can buy a proper shop.

[geezer#99]

Here’s how I’ve done it.
Disconnect battery.
Drain coolant.
Remove distributor cap.
Loosen rad so it can move upwards with hoses. No strain on hoses that way.
Jack up truck and put jack stands under frame. No jack stands just a short 4x4 under tires works. Block rear tires. Front and back of tire. Emergency brake set. You don’t want it rolling away. Had that happen once.
Jack up front of motor. Use bottle jack. I had a block of wood made into a cradle to push on front ears of pan and balancer.
Ease it up slowly and slide a 2x2 between mounts. I use a couple 1x2’s for this. Easier to double them up if they don’t slide in easy.
Watch for any hoses getting stretched, headers/pipes contacting crossmembers. Power steering hoses too if you have them.
Your trans linkage May bind too. Might need to remove.
Last one I did I left the rear mounts alone and they allowed enough upwards movement.
Ask any questions, I’ll likely remember a few more things.

[phlegm]

Originally Posted by geezer#99

Here’s how I’ve done it.
Disconnect battery.
Drain coolant.
Remove distributor cap.
Loosen rad so it can move upwards with hoses. No strain on hoses that way.
Jack up truck and put jack stands under frame. No jack stands just a short 4x4 under tires works. Block rear tires. Front and back of tire. Emergency brake set. You don’t want it rolling away. Had that happen once.
Jack up front of motor. Use bottle jack. I had a block of wood made into a cradle to push on front ears of pan and balancer.
Ease it up slowly and slide a 2x2 between mounts. I use a couple 1x2’s for this. Easier to double them up if they don’t slide in easy.
Watch for any hoses getting stretched, headers/pipes contacting crossmembers. Power steering hoses too if you have them.
Your trans linkage May bind too. Might need to remove.
Last one I did I left the rear mounts alone and they allowed enough upwards movement.
Ask any questions, I’ll likely remember a few more things.

Good stuff... I didnt think about linkage and coolant hoses, This is a great reminder in need to be looking at more than just the 2 things I had in mind.

[geezer#99]

One thing you really don’t want is sparks or liquid to deal with.
I found just draining the rad wasn’t enough so I unbolted it so it could float with the motor.
You still needs to watch the hoses though. Along with everything else.
At least you might have a helper.
I’ve always done it by myself. Just takes a bit longer.
Have fun!

[phlegm]

Yea, I disconnected the ground just cause no oil. I didnt want my son to try to turn it over to get closer to TDC while I was out. He is 16 and really handy, but sometimes hes just 16