66 cluster/gauges questions before reinstalling

[msg]

Thanks the test I ran with the 12v energizer took the needle from the left to the middle only. Is that normal? Or should it go all the way to the right?

[msg]

Thanks Ray, I retrofitted it and from what I can tell its moving to 3/4 of the way then settles at the half mark. This seem right?

[msg]

I got this in the mail today with some parts I ordered, tells me how to read the ammeter. Half way would mean normal so if a voltmeter is no different I think I have a working customized gauge.

[ray_mcavoy]

Originally Posted by msg

Thanks the test I ran with the 12v energizer took the needle from the left to the middle only. Is that normal? Or should it go all the way to the right?

Originally Posted by msg

Thanks Ray, I retrofitted it and from what I can tell its moving to 3/4 of the way then settles at the half mark. This seem right?

Yes, based on the position of the "12" marking on the original face plate, that needle position looks about right where it should be with 12v applied.

Originally Posted by msg

I got this in the mail today with some parts I ordered, tells me how to read the ammeter. Half way would mean normal so if a voltmeter is no different I think I have a working customized gauge.

Actually, the ammeter and voltmeter are different in terms of what they're measuring and what readings are considered normal. With the key on, engine off, the voltmeter will indicate the battery voltage (should be around 12.6V for a fully charged battery). And with the engine running, the voltmeter will display the charging system voltage (should be in the 13.7 to 14.7V range). If the voltmeter continues to show battery voltage with the engine running, that indicates there is something wrong with the charging system that needs to be checked out. Similarly, a high reading (up over 15v or so) would indicate a problem with the voltage regulator.

As you've already noticed, the 12v reading is right about mid-scale on your customized gauge so the key on / engine off battery voltage should be pretty close to that (maybe just a tick higher). You could use a couple of 1.5v batteries (like AA or AAA cells) connected in series with the 12v battery to bring the test voltage up to 15v. That would give you a reference point for the maximum voltage you should see under normal operating conditions.

[msg]

Thanks so much Ray, at least I know now I can continue on with the restoration on the cluster. I'll try out adding 2 more AAs to the mix to see how far that needle goes. Ive never paid attention to that gauge before which I guess was the right call since it wasnt working right anyway before. But from here Ill watch and see with key on / engine off that at least the half way mark is what I should consider good.