WOOLWax Rust Nuetralizer ...

[70cst]

I have read some negative press on tar-like rust proofing so ... I am going to give this a try on my 2004 Sierra


Lanolin is a unique organic substance derived from the wool grease coating on raw sheep wool. It is an all natural, incredibility effective substance that acts as a moisture barrier and lubricant.
WoolWax® Undercoating Formula is a lanolin based corrosion inhibitor developed solely to protect the undercarriages of automobiles and trucks. Our lanolin is blended with other proprietary agents to provide long term corrosion protection. WoolWax® will provide long term protection (annual application) against salt, liquid calcium chloride, brine, and all other ice control agents that are being used by municipal departments.

Most other undercoating products contain up to 70% solvents, which make these products very thin and watery. Without a very thick viscosity, these products break down and wash off quickly. WoolWax® is solvent free and very thick and viscous. It applies like a heavy latex paint, which makes it very resistant to wash-off. WoolWax® does not dry. It remains soft and pliable and continues to be active, migrating into all the inaccessible areas.
Woolwax® contains much more raw woolgrease (lanolin) than any competitive product. This makes Woolwax® thicker and much more resistant to wash off. Thereby providing a longer period of protection for exposed undercarriage areas.

[hatzie]

Fluid Film is lanolin based IIRC but it goes on thin.
3M cavity wax that I use inside the doors and rockers goes on heavier but it's spray can only application.

I'm interested to see what the application of a heavier product looks like and the application process.

[Palf70Step]

I am not a big fan of the wax based stuff like GM puts under the newer trucks. It just doesn't seem to hold up to me. I am lucky that I don't have that big an issue down here, but friends and family from my old PA stomping grounds are very disappoint on how quick and easy the wax peals off and the rusting begins. I'll be interested in seeing how yours does.

[70cst]

Originally Posted by Palf70Step

I am not a big fan of the wax based stuff like GM puts under the newer trucks. It just doesn't seem to hold up to me. I am lucky that I don't have that big an issue down here, but friends and family from my old PA stomping grounds are very disappoint on how quick and easy the wax peals off and the rusting begins. I'll be interested in seeing how yours does.

Its my understand that one should get this doe annually... After reading some on the tar based rust inhibitors - there are long term negatives with this type.

Fluid Film and WoolWax were two of the m most recommended that I have seen so far ... there are others but I want to take my truck somewhere where it can be applied.

[hatzie]

Do they treat inside the doors, rockers, and cab corners?
I did the inside of my doors and rockers with 3M cavity wax when I got it here from its' first home in the desert. I haven't driven it much in the winter slop and I've rinsed it off thoroughly when I did.

[70cst]

Originally Posted by hatzie

Do they treat inside the doors, rockers, and cab corners?
I did the inside of my doors and rockers with 3M cavity wax when I got it here from its' first home in the desert. I haven't driven it much in the winter slop and I've rinsed it off thoroughly when I did.

Good Question ...

I will need to ask to be sure

[hatzie]

It's not difficult to do the doors and parts of the rockers yourself with the 3M wand and spray cans.
You probably want to get the lanolin sprayed in by the pros if they do that kinda stuff.

If you end up treating the doors yourself you do have to take the door panels off and turn back the water barrier for access but it isn't too bad. I really should've taken pictures when I did mine.

[70cst]

Originally Posted by hatzie

It's not difficult to do the doors and parts of the rockers yourself with the 3M wand and spray cans.
You probably want to get the lanolin sprayed in by the pros if they do that kinda stuff.

If you end up treating the doors yourself you do have to take the door panels off and turn back the water barrier for access but it isn't too bad. I really should've taken pictures when I did mine.

Thanks

[CarlsLQ9SS]

Good information

[skyphix]

I've never tried the wax-based stuff, but know a couple of people up here that have not liked it (the GM Wax stuff) for external application. Thats all second hand knowledge and it seems to work great inside the rockers and cab corners though so take it with a grain of salt.


As I am sure Hatzie can attest to, up here in New England we can normally basically watch the rust eat these trucks up. I plan on getting fluid film done this fall after a trip to the 4x4 section of the Outer Banks. Local places here pressure wash the underside of the truck before applying the FluidFilm - initial coating they do inside the rockers and other vulnerable areas (i.e. rear fender dog leg on Suburbans) and then subsequent yearly treatments they wash and just do the underside and its 1/3 the cost. I've seen how effective FluidFilm is despite the annoyance and cost of having to get it refreshed so to me its worth it.

[hatzie]

Originally Posted by skyphix

I've never tried the wax-based stuff, but know a couple of people up here that have not liked it (the GM Wax stuff) for external application. Thats all second hand knowledge and it seems to work great inside the rockers and cab corners though so take it with a grain of salt.


As I am sure Hatzie can attest to, up here in New England we can normally basically watch the rust eat these trucks up. I plan on getting fluid film done this fall after a trip to the 4x4 section of the Outer Banks. Local places here pressure wash the underside of the truck before applying the FluidFilm - initial coating they do inside the rockers and other vulnerable areas (i.e. rear fender dog leg on Suburbans) and then subsequent yearly treatments they wash and just do the underside and its 1/3 the cost. I've seen how effective FluidFilm is despite the annoyance and cost of having to get it refreshed so to me its worth it.

Yeah the salt here melts the vehicles. New York is 25x worse.

What is it that people don't like about the GM wax?

[skyphix]

Originally Posted by hatzie

Yeah the salt here melts the vehicles. New York is 25x worse.

What is it that people don't like about the GM wax?

I grew up in Upstate NY! Small world. I live in Maine now where liquid calcium chloride "brine" is used and is just terrible.

The people I've talked to saw it "flaking off" or just not remaining as well as they'd hoped even over a single winter. Interior application, like inside the rocker panels and cab corners, didn't seem to suffer the same thing (my father in law had it applied on their 2015 Sierra when they bought it and that looked brand new when they traded it in) - it was mostly frame applications that seemed to suffer by folks up here, and all from the same dealership, so I wonder if the frame hadn't been cleaned of grease/etc enough before application or something. One of the people I talked to had it put on by a rural GM dealer in November 2018 on a late model 3/4 ton and said it was all gone/didn't seem to be helping at all when I talked to him in January 2019. Again, second hand, so I always take those with a grain of salt. Could have been a poorly educated dealership applying it or something - FluidFilm up here is usually applied by either body shops or oddly enough more often transmissions shops, and seem to be more well trained in proper application.

[hatzie]

Around here the dealerships are glad to mark up other folks work. They aren't the ones applying bed liner and frame treatments.

I go down to the lakes country and get the frame treated by the same guys that did my Line-X. They do the same for the new vehicle dealerships. Dad had all four of his Tundras Line-X and Oil Undercoated by them... By Irwin LOL.

[skyphix]

Originally Posted by hatzie

Around here the dealerships are glad to mark up other folks work. They aren't the ones applying bed liner and frame treatments.

I go down to the lakes country and get the frame treated by the same guys that did my Line-X. They do the same for the new vehicle dealerships. Dad had all four of his Tundras Line-X and Oil Undercoated by them... By Irwin LOL.

Yeah, as I mentioned, everyone I know thats had the GM Wax Treatment goes to a very rural dealership so the closest "outsource" would be 60ish miles each way to Bangor, so they do that (and body work, etc) all in house. The ones closer to Bangor (where I am) outsource to the local Transmission/Customization shops for Line-X and Oil Protection. Hah! My C10 is oil undercoated... but from an old leaky transmission itself

I digress - didn't mean to run off topic here.