Engine repair in the truck. - The 1947 - Present Chevrolet & GMC Truck Message Board Network

WB72 · 06-30-2004, 10:07 AM

I don't have access to an engine hoist, but want to replace the oip pan gasket and seals, can this be done in the truck?

What about replacing the cam, has anyone done this? does the grill have to be removed for this?

Fred T · 06-30-2004, 10:41 AM

The pan gasket can be replaced with the engine in the truck. Not sure on which engine you have, but in most cases you jack the front of the engine and disconnect the motor mounts. You might also have to pull the distributor to keep it from hitting the firewall. Instructions are in the factory service manual, available through many of the on-line vendors. Well worth the investment.

To r&r the cam, you need to remove the grill and the radiator. Again, instructions in the service manual.

buckola · 06-30-2004, 10:56 AM

You'll have to lift the engine about 3+ " and support it with 2x4"s or whatever to clear the flywheel. I removed my dizzy cap and had no problems with clearance. You also have to remove ( loosen)the fan shroud. Changing the seals? not sure of the difficulty but any "flat-back " work is a pain.

For the cam you have to remove the rad and of course all the other "in the way "paraphanelia. Theres enuff room for the swap at least in a GMC.

After just completing a cam, heads, manifold swap (still doing the headers) I would have to say... PULL THE ENGINE...it would be a helluva lot easier

70ChevyLongbed · 06-30-2004, 10:59 AM

I replaced the cam in mine without removing the grill... but I'll also vote for pulling the motor. That's what I'll do next time.

n737nc · 06-30-2004, 11:10 AM

I just finished a heads, cam, intake swap last weekend. If I did it again, I would pull the motor.

Nick

mrein3 · 06-30-2004, 01:15 PM

I did a heads, cam, and put the old intake back on. I'd do that in the truck if that is all I had to do.

**COBALT** · 06-30-2004, 02:00 PM

I replaced my oil pan gasket a little over a year ago. I had to disconnect the motor mounts, loosen the transmission mount (and disconnect the linkage so it wouldn't get bent), loosened the exhaust brackets, took off the air cleaner and pulled the distributor, and then used a block to lift the motor by the balancer until I got enough clearance to get the pan around the counterweights on the crank.

Pain in the butt. Next time I'll pull the motor. Go rent an engine hoist.

LONGHAIR · 06-30-2004, 04:28 PM

The only time I ever did a cam in the vehicle was way back on my first car. The hot rodder in me was just beginning to grow. I can tell you that it can be done in a 69 Camaro w/o taking out the grille. I changed the cam, intake and had a valve job done too. I wouldn't go that route again........It is far easier to pull it out.

WB72 · 07-01-2004, 11:08 AM

Sounds like I'll be pulling it. (the engine I mean)

Fred T · 07-01-2004, 11:16 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by WB72

Sounds like I'll be pulling it. (the engine I mean)

To each his own!

What engine is in the truck?

WB72 · 07-01-2004, 06:04 PM

It is a 350 with a TH350.

06-30-2004, 10:07 AM	#1
WB72 Before and After Join Date: Feb 2000 Location: Leduc, Alberta CANADA Posts: 632	Engine repair in the truck. I don't have access to an engine hoist, but want to replace the oip pan gasket and seals, can this be done in the truck? What about replacing the cam, has anyone done this? does the grill have to be removed for this? __________________ Not Grandpa's C-20 anymore... 383 Stroker 425HP, 485Ft/Lbs Lowered 3.5" Front / 5" Rear 66,000 miles. Alberta, CANADA

06-30-2004, 10:41 AM	#2
Fred T Cantankerous Geezer Join Date: Aug 2002 Location: Bel Aire, KS Posts: 6,264	The pan gasket can be replaced with the engine in the truck. Not sure on which engine you have, but in most cases you jack the front of the engine and disconnect the motor mounts. You might also have to pull the distributor to keep it from hitting the firewall. Instructions are in the factory service manual, available through many of the on-line vendors. Well worth the investment. To r&r the cam, you need to remove the grill and the radiator. Again, instructions in the service manual. __________________ Fred There is no such thing as too much cam...just not enough engine.

06-30-2004, 10:56 AM	#3
buckola 1 Wrench / 10 Knuckles Join Date: Sep 2002 Location: Burlington Ontario Posts: 179	You'll have to lift the engine about 3+ " and support it with 2x4"s or whatever to clear the flywheel. I removed my dizzy cap and had no problems with clearance. You also have to remove ( loosen)the fan shroud. Changing the seals? not sure of the difficulty but any "flat-back " work is a pain. For the cam you have to remove the rad and of course all the other "in the way "paraphanelia. Theres enuff room for the swap at least in a GMC. After just completing a cam, heads, manifold swap (still doing the headers) I would have to say... PULL THE ENGINE...it would be a helluva lot easier __________________ 1970 GMC Custom Vortec Heads, Edelbrock Performer Intake, Crane 272 Energizer, Hedman Full Length HTC Headers 2006 Dodge Charger SRT8. 1/4 mile 13.3 1973 Z1 900 Kawasaki ( all original)

06-30-2004, 10:59 AM	#4
70ChevyLongbed Howzit?!? Join Date: Jan 2003 Location: Maryville, TN Posts: 1,266	I replaced the cam in mine without removing the grill... but I'll also vote for pulling the motor. That's what I'll do next time. __________________ Jason Hawaiian-J 70 Longbed, 307, Edelbrock Carb 1404, Edelbrock Intake 2101, Dual Roller Timing chain and gears, 214/214 cam, Comp Roller Rockers, dual Flowmasters. 1999 Chevy Tahoe 2004 Mini Cooper S 71 BMW 2002 - Sold

06-30-2004, 01:15 PM	#6
mrein3 Registered User Join Date: Feb 2000 Location: Center City, MN, USA Posts: 3,253	I did a heads, cam, and put the old intake back on. I'd do that in the truck if that is all I had to do. __________________ '70 cab, '71 chassis, 383, TH350, NP205. '71 Malibu convertible '72 Malibu hard top Center City, MN

06-30-2004, 11:10 AM	#5
n737nc Registered User Join Date: Jun 2004 Location: Dallas, Tx Posts: 207	I just finished a heads, cam, intake swap last weekend. If I did it again, I would pull the motor. Nick

06-30-2004, 02:00 PM	#7
COBALT Senior Member Join Date: Sep 2001 Location: Seattle, WA, USA Posts: 5,817	I replaced my oil pan gasket a little over a year ago. I had to disconnect the motor mounts, loosen the transmission mount (and disconnect the linkage so it wouldn't get bent), loosened the exhaust brackets, took off the air cleaner and pulled the distributor, and then used a block to lift the motor by the balancer until I got enough clearance to get the pan around the counterweights on the crank. Pain in the butt. Next time I'll pull the motor. Go rent an engine hoist. __________________ '69 3/4 ton C20 2wd-350ci/TH400 '69 3/4 ton Custom 20 2wd-350ci/4sp Manual '99 2wd 5.7 Chevy Tahoe Seattle, WA.

06-30-2004, 04:28 PM	#8
LONGHAIR just can't cover up my redneck Join Date: May 2004 Location: Columbus OH Posts: 11,414	The only time I ever did a cam in the vehicle was way back on my first car. The hot rodder in me was just beginning to grow. I can tell you that it can be done in a 69 Camaro w/o taking out the grille. I changed the cam, intake and had a valve job done too. I wouldn't go that route again........It is far easier to pull it out.

07-01-2004, 11:08 AM	#9
WB72 Before and After Join Date: Feb 2000 Location: Leduc, Alberta CANADA Posts: 632	Sounds like I'll be pulling it. (the engine I mean) __________________ Not Grandpa's C-20 anymore... 383 Stroker 425HP, 485Ft/Lbs Lowered 3.5" Front / 5" Rear 66,000 miles. Alberta, CANADA

07-01-2004, 06:04 PM	#11
WB72 Before and After Join Date: Feb 2000 Location: Leduc, Alberta CANADA Posts: 632	It is a 350 with a TH350. __________________ Not Grandpa's C-20 anymore... 383 Stroker 425HP, 485Ft/Lbs Lowered 3.5" Front / 5" Rear 66,000 miles. Alberta, CANADA



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