spin off from "lowered shocks"

[bigstoys]

here's my story. i bought the truck already lowered with heated coils front and back. truck sits pretty low. i'm going to buy and all new set up eventually bags and a disc brake set up. but in the mean time i want to buy new shocks to help the ride. i think the truck is at about a 4" in the front and maybe a 4-6" in the rear. who has the shocks im looking for or better yet who is actually using them and what works. thanks in advance.

[LONGHAIR]

If you are going to use air bags on the future, you might as well relocate you front shocks now. The airbags will not let you put your shocks in the stock location (up inside the coil) so you mount them behind the A-arms. The upper mount is welded to the frame and the lower to the lower A-arm. You can buy a kit or make the mounts and determine the shock length yourself. Then, when you do the bags, the shock money is not wasted because they will still work.
As for the rear shocks you may just have to take measurements and cross-reference them to some shorter at the local auto supply store.

[Tx Firefighter]

He said heated coils front and rear. That means his truck is a 72 or earlier. He does not have to relocate anything concerning the shocks to do airbags.

I run a deep drop on mine and KYB short shocks from Early Classics front and rear. I couldn't be happier with them.

[Tx Firefighter]

Notice where the factory shock mounts are on this 70 model.

It allows air bag installation in place of the coil spring without messing with the shocks.

[LONGHAIR]

That's right, I forgot. The inside mount didn't start until '73.

[Tx Firefighter]

The inside spring shock mount started in 88 on the full size trucks.

The 73-87 suspension is basically identical to the 72 and earlier one.

[72LOWBOY]

I've used KYBs for years and they are great. If you are looking for a more stiffer ride than I would opt for Doetsch Tech shocks. I think summit racing still carries them.

[LONGHAIR]

I must have S-10 on the brain today

[ShamrockCustoms]

bigtoys: get your truck at ride height. measure the existing shocks from eye to eye for length. drop shocks are nothing more than what you have, just different length, mor or less. just get the shock with the same type of ends and you're set. best to set the shock to where about 60% of the rod is exposed at ride height. hope this helps.



have fun!

[bigstoys]

the doetsch tech shocks through summitt!!!! i've seen those in the online catologe i was thinking of buy them but they have very little detail like front/rear and what the two ends look like. if you have purchased these can you give me the proper part number so there is no mistake. also with these shorter shocks do i need to use a lowering block for the rear. also does that actually lower the truck anymore. i see ad's that use 4" drop springs for the rear and 2" blocks and they call it a 6" drop.

[72LOWBOY]

bigstoys your best bet is to give summit a call and tell them how much of a drop you have and how it was done and they'll set you up. phone #1-800-230-3030. I've had these shocks for four years now and no problems. Good luck

[bigstoys]

what kind of improvement am i supposed to see. right now when i hit a bad pothole it feels bad. it's too the point that i actually drive with my magnifying glass so i can make sure i don't hit a big bump when i drive. is this because A. my coils are heated and B. the shocks are not doing there job cause they are too long and are bottoming out.

[Tx Firefighter]

Yes, it's your heated springs.

I have the Early Classic 6 inch springs in the rear and a 2 inch drop spring in the front. I drive the truck hard and fast without fear. It rides exceptionally.

[XXL]

Actually, I wouldn't waste money on shocks until you get the coil situation worked out. Shocks aren't supposed to BE the ride... the springs are for that. If you buy shocks now, you'll wear them out prematurely if they have to contend with flaky springs.

[LONGHAIR]

I have to agree with XXL on this one.
The heated coils are just way to stiff and the shocks cannot cure that. Shocks are only there to take the natural bounce out of the springs. They will not be able to do much for your ride problems. When the suspension is really stiff the shocks don't do as much anyway. Stiff springs allow less travel and don't bounce as much.

[1972C10]

You can heat leafs BTW ive seen it done where they were heated behind the pack and they kinda folded up but still had travel.

[XXL]

Originally Posted by 1972C10

You can heat leafs BTW ive seen it done where they were heated behind the pack and they kinda folded up but still had travel.

Springs are made out of what is called "spring steel." It is a specialized metal that is particularly good at retaining 'memory' of its intended shape. This is why it works well as a... spring.

Heating steel changes its molecular identity, and so heating spring steel does the same. If heated incorrectly (that is, without specialized equipment and/or knowledge), you get bad springs. Sure you can heat leafs. But if you heat them incorrectly they have the potential to break at the heat point. That is because they will no longer be springy at that point but they will still be asked by the suspension to move back and forth. Bend a piece of steel back and forth enough times and it breaks.

[stingray72]

Originally Posted by Tx Firefighter

Yes, it's your heated springs.

I have the Early Classic 6 inch springs in the rear and a 2 inch drop spring in the front. I drive the truck hard and fast without fear. It rides exceptionally.

This is what I like to hear/see b/c I just ordered the Early Classic 4/6 drop kit

[1972C10]

Yeah heating anyspring isnt a great idea I was just stating that it can be done.