Rebuild LQ9 or...Stroke it?

[LS short box]

I've never pulled either of the plugs on my LS swaps. No reason you can't.

[71cadc10]

you can thread out all the oil and water plugs...for cleaning the block...and re-use them.

the only cup plug is in the front of block, for one side (oil galley). What I like to do is drive it out from the back with a long piece of rod after you pull the plastic barbell thing from the rear.
This lets you clean the oil galleys good with brushes. You'd want to get a new cup plug to replace that one then.

[SierraMtns]

Ok guys parts are really coming in now.

Need some input on rod bearings. I am looking at King bearings. I noticed one of the sets has a dowel in it. Not sure why it would have that. Here are the ones I am looking at. I think the first set is the stock replacement ones. I am sticking with stock crank.

https://www.summitracing.com/parts/k...07si?rrec=true

High Performance ones

https://www.summitracing.com/parts/kgb-cr807hpnd

https://www.summitracing.com/parts/k...7hpn?rrec=true

Thanks Nick

[71cadc10]

you would want the 807HPN
no need for dowel hole, that is for doweled aftermarket rods. Endurance race and circle track stuff sometimes use dowels to keep bearing from spinning even when they are torn up.


the HP series is fine for stock cranks, and N stands for narrow. You don't really need the narrow since your crank doesn't have large fillet radius. But they will work just fine, and the HP / XP series only come in Narrow.

the 807SI are a stock replacement cheap bearing (aluminum). They will work yes...but I've found the HP series to give better clearances and just look like a much better bearing.
If the 807HPN give you too wide or too tight of clearance, they are also available in +/-001 sizing.

807HPNSTDX part no. is +001 extra clearance
807HPN 001 part no. is -001 tighter clearance

I've used these a lot for stock cranks, they work great. I keep all 3 sets around STD, STDX, and 001 so I can set clearance exactly what I need. You can mix half shells to tighten or loosen up in .0005" steps as well.

[SierraMtns]

Originally Posted by 71cadc10

you would want the 807HPN
no need for dowel hole, that is for doweled aftermarket rods. Endurance race and circle track stuff sometimes use dowels to keep bearing from spinning even when they are torn up.


the HP series is fine for stock cranks, and N stands for narrow. You don't really need the narrow since your crank doesn't have large fillet radius. But they will work just fine, and the HP / XP series only come in Narrow.

the 807SI are a stock replacement cheap bearing (aluminum). They will work yes...but I've found the HP series to give better clearances and just look like a much better bearing.
If the 807HPN give you too wide or too tight of clearance, they are also available in +/-001 sizing.

807HPNSTDX part no. is +001 extra clearance
807HPN 001 part no. is -001 tighter clearance

I've used these a lot for stock cranks, they work great. I keep all 3 sets around STD, STDX, and 001 so I can set clearance exactly what I need. You can mix half shells to tighten or loosen up in .0005" steps as well.

What cam bearings do you use? I was trying to stay King but I see people
like Dura-Bond ones too.