Suburban A/C fix + Vintage Air?

[BlueJeep]

So how did the trip turn out? A/C perform as expected? Thanks!

[swissarmychainsaw]

I think it is the lowest recorded temp, but it does not tell the whole story.


Trip was great, we had an Adventure for sure.
AC worked as expected. In 100 degree temps, you have to be moving pretty good to keep the cabin cool. Since we were off roading, I ending up turning it off and rolled the windows down for the really slow stuff.

We climbed a goat path to get to the top!






Then about two miles from the road:


How many plys did YOU buy?



THEN when towing the potties back (full and stinky):



This is what you get for using an "old tire" for your spare!

Shredded!


Luckily my buddy was around and we towed the flat to a tire store.



Gorgeous though!


Turns out that 15" tires are not very popular.
This place had some used tires, and I got one, to get the truck on the road, then went back and hooked up the other so I'd have a spare...


Back on the road


Sooo... to answer your question, yes the AC WORKED as expected!
Here we are cruising past Sacramento, and it was hot there!


Got home and made the investment (8 ply Toyos):


I need to sort out some duct work (some of the under dash tubes are not installed correctly or something, but all it, I'm pretty happy with this thing.

Smells like...victory!

[jjzepplin]

Congratulations! Sounds like it is working great! I had 10 ply Super Swampers on my Blazer. Thing drove like it was on rails and the wear was actually pretty good. It took hitting a car at 50mph to knock one off the rim. Seated right back up though. Car was not as fortunate. Blazer either.

[BlueJeep]

Fantastic on the air, not so great on the tires but at least you have it fixed and ready for next time! I have Nittos on my Jeep, very happy with them.

[BlueJeep]

So back to the air, why did you replace the hard lines going to the rear air unit? Were they unknown condition and the new rubber lines were known? I'm trying to figure out where to start with my system. It's a new-to-me suburban and the air doesn't work. Has never been converted over from R12 and is all stock with rear air too.

[swissarmychainsaw]

Originally Posted by BlueJeep

So back to the air, why did you replace the hard lines going to the rear air unit? Were they unknown condition and the new rubber lines were known? I'm trying to figure out where to start with my system. It's a new-to-me suburban and the air doesn't work. Has never been converted over from R12 and is all stock with rear air too.

I did this based on the advice from the AC guy I bought the stuff from at "Classic Auto Air". He said the original stuff is rubber and will fail *eventually with R134a. Also remember that I was *adding the rear unit.
But if I had a rear unit in there already, I would be really tempted to not replace the lines until they failed.

For me, I wanted to maximize for success, and so far following good advice has done that.
C'om by, bring some beers and lets get you sorted!

[BlueJeep]

Originally Posted by swissarmychainsaw

I did this based on the advice from the AC guy I bought the stuff from at "Classic Auto Air". He said the original stuff is rubber and will fail *eventually with R134a. Also remember that I was *adding the rear unit.
But if I had a rear unit in there already, I would be really tempted to not replace the lines until they failed.

For me, I wanted to maximize for success, and so far following good advice has done that.
C'om by, bring some beers and lets get you sorted!

That would be great, but I'm afraid that the beers would be warm after a 26 hour drive with no A/C!!

Yeah, that makes sense. Do you think it would be worthwhile to attempt to change all the orings proactively before starting in?

[swissarmychainsaw]

Originally Posted by BlueJeep

...

Yeah, that makes sense. Do you think it would be worthwhile to attempt to change all the orings proactively before starting in?

There are a few "consumables" you would probably want to replace, or consider replacing.
* O-rings. Not even a question, cheap and easy.
* Orifice tube, also cheap and easy
* Expansion valve (rear unit) also cheap and easy.
* Drier/Accumulator

I would also replace the condenser with a parallel flow (advice given to me here). It helps the R134a work!

[BlueJeep]

Perfect, thanks! I now need to go back and re-read because you likely already told me where you got all of that stuff!

[hatzie]

If you open the system or you're changing refrigerants you should replace the accumulator/drier.
It gets loaded with moisture pretty quickly and it will have some of the old refrigerant oil charge trapped inside as well.

[blakeduren]

Originally Posted by swissarmychainsaw

There are a few "consumables" you would probably want to replace, or consider replacing.
* O-rings. Not even a question, cheap and easy.
* Orifice tube, also cheap and easy
* Expansion valve (rear unit) also cheap and easy.
* Drier/Accumulator

I would also replace the condenser with a parallel flow (advice given to me here). It helps the R134a work!

I am in the process of my suburban a/c redo....
I am doing the o rings right now...
Did the parallel flow, accumulator, orifice tube...

Do you have a pic of this rear expansion valve or tips surrounding that?
Thanks

[swissarmychainsaw]

Originally Posted by blakeduren

...

Do you have a pic of this rear expansion valve or tips surrounding that?
Thanks

Pics of the expansion valve are on page 2 of this thread. I knew NOTHING about this when I replaced mine. I literally:
* Unbolted the old one
* Installed new one (don't overtighten-- finger tight + 1/2-3/4 turn, always use two wrenches)
* clamp the 'sensor' to evaporator somewheres

here's how I did mine.



Pretty much that's it. Except: You can do it!

[BlueJeep]

swissarmy, any longer term thoughts on the duct insulation on the ceiling? Did it make a difference?

[swissarmychainsaw]

Originally Posted by BlueJeep

swissarmy, any longer term thoughts on the duct insulation on the ceiling? Did it make a difference?

Great question, I'm not totally sure. I have to think it provides some noise reduction and insulation, but the real pony in this story is working AC.

It's still hanging in there, and was cheap. I'd probably do it again, and its surely better than nothing, and is not heavy like dyna mat type stuff (nor does it smell).
--Nick

[Ryan Hubbard]

Could you tell me which orifice tube you used in the system? Or what color was the orifice tube?

[swissarmychainsaw]

Originally Posted by Ryan Hubbard

Could you tell me which orifice tube you used in the system? Or what color was the orifice tube?

I ordered the stock orifice tube from LMC truck, as it fit inside the stock AC stuff that I kept on it.

[malc1080]

can someone help me out please? anyone own a 1979-1980 c20 suburban (cali
approved not federal) with factory 454 that still has the emission sticker diagram? I really need a picture of it to follow it and put the 454 back to original to pass smog in cali. thank you

[swissarmychainsaw]

Originally Posted by malc1080

can someone help me out please? anyone own a 1979-1980 c20 suburban (cali
approved not federal) with factory 454 that still has the emission sticker diagram? I really need a picture of it to follow it and put the 454 back to original to pass smog in cali. thank you

Probably best to start a new thread, but ...
https://www.lmctruck.com/1973-87-che...mission-decals

[malc1080]

Originally Posted by swissarmychainsaw

Probably best to start a new thread, but ...
https://www.lmctruck.com/1973-87-che...mission-decals

That’s not it. They don’t have it.
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