Biggest Static Drop

[kitsbeach]

Originally Posted by SCOTI

Not sure if you considered this but that truck w/the wheels your inquiring about is a 1/2 ton & you're mentioning yours as a 3/4 ton.... Back space needs will be different because the rear end widths are different.

Are the widths wider or narrower?

[Ziegelsteinfaust]

Originally Posted by kitsbeach

I hear you. But for putting around, low is the way to go (for me) and static.

I have had a lot lower trucks in my possession, and I was fine driving it, but I had to pay attention at certain points. One was almost 7/9 maybe 8/10, and was static. I never had a issue because I only took it certain ways to places. Unlike a 4/6 where I went as I pleased. Even crusing dirt roads was fine to go camping. The rear frame was Z'd, and the bed floor raised. The kid i helped build the truck smashed up the back of the bed by dragging it into parking lots. So we slash cut it like prerunners, and welded in rounded lips again to make it look complete. Made a lot of difference, and didn't look to bad.

I had a 68 Nova 4 door that was dropped roughly 4/5, and speed bumps were my mortal enemy. People asked me why I did up a 4 door, and I would always say practicality. It became such a nightmare I eventually raised it up enough to clear the average speed bumps again.

[SCOTI]

Originally Posted by kitsbeach

Are the widths wider or narrower?

I would imagine 3/4 ton housings are typically wider since they're heavier-duty. The main thing is what works on one doesn't necessarily work on another. You need to measure your set-up to get the best fit for your likes.

[greenmtnboy]

Here's my last one with a 5/6 static drop and 7" front 8" Rear rallies. Minor LCA trimming and all new bushings, ball joints and steering linkage. Rode & Drove Great.

[Robzkombi]

No pictures to upload at the moment but mine is at a 5/6 and rides real smooth. No C-notch, although when I go from my OG 15" to my 20" wheels the ride does get a little firm not rough just firm enough to "feel" the road. Tire sidewall does make a difference. I also added extended rear shock supports along with air shocks.

[Wikid61]

It's when the LOWER A-Arms are 3" or less from the pavement, is when the issues of daily & functional come into play. That is w/15 inch wheels, good to excellent quality shocks and what coils are used. You never see pix of the A-arms sitting at actual ride height in these threads. I really do plan on moving the crossmember up 2" (either 'Z' or notching the bottom of the frame) AND the sectioning of the stock crossmember 1". Not interested in the aftermarket crossmember kits for this build. 2.5 spindles & a pair of MOOG 3/4 ton w/ one wrap (2") will round it off.

[kitsbeach]

Originally Posted by SCOTI

I would imagine 3/4 ton housings are typically wider since they're heavier-duty. The main thing is what works on one doesn't necessarily work on another. You need to measure your set-up to get the best fit for your likes.

Thanks SCOTI...time for me to get the tape measure out and compare..thanks for the heads up I'm glad you told me before I ordered wheels.

[kitsbeach]

Originally Posted by greenmtnboy

Here's my last one with a 5/6 static drop and 7" front 8" Rear rallies. Minor LCA trimming and all new bushings, ball joints and steering linkage. Rode & Drove Great.

Sits perfect

[SCOTI]

Originally Posted by kitsbeach

Thanks SCOTI...time for me to get the tape measure out and compare..thanks for the heads up I'm glad you told me before I ordered wheels.

[greenmtnboy]

Thanks @kitsbeach

[ilnvyb360]

Here’s mine at 4.5 front/7” rear drop. Only issue I have is the LCA ground clearance. I’m running 20s now so it sits higher and no longer a big concern

[Wikid61]

Originally Posted by ilnvyb360

Here’s mine at 4.5 front/7” rear drop. Only issue I have is the LCA ground clearance. I’m running 20s now so it sits higher and no longer a big concern

3" or less LCA w/the 15's right?

[ilnvyb360]

Originally Posted by Wikid61

3" or less LCA w/the 15's right?

Yeah. It looks to be less than 3” for me. If I would’ve gone with a 245/60 front tire, instead of a 235/60, I think I would’ve got 1/4” or close to 1/2” more of clearance.

Again, not too big of an issue. Very streetable and I was still able to hit some gravel roads to pick up a used topper.

[SCOTI]

Originally Posted by ilnvyb360

Yeah. It looks to be less than 3” for me. If I would’ve gone with a 245/60 front tire, instead of a 235/60, I think I would’ve got 1/4” or close to 1/2” more of clearance.

Again, not too big of an issue. Very streetable and I was still able to hit some gravel roads to pick up a used topper.

Maybe a 1/4" difference of height.

[mikentosh]

I’ve got mine currently sitting at a static 6.5”/7.5” drop height. Though I don’t daily drive it, I would have zero concerns doing that, as I get no scraping/rubbing even on rough roads. The only concern is getting high centered on steep angle driveway exits, or super tall speed bumps. I feel this is the lowest you can go without cutting the bed floor for clearance, but it took a lot of work to get here...front drop member, rear 4 link, shaving all the low hanging brackets on the frame, modified inner fenders...

Oh and this is with 295/50 15s on the front and back, which are only 26.4” diameter...not helping the ground clearance situation

[kitsbeach]

Here's a couple shots from Hot Rod magazine showing 5/7 drop with 17's...this would be a good fit for me.

[kitsbeach]

My '67 is a 5.5/8 drop and I daily it everywhere...

[Wikid61]

I currently drive a '61 Impala w/3" of LCA clearances. BUT the frame & body are lower slung & high centers those aforementioned step driveways/crowns of street & highway. Just slow down and read that road. But I would love if some of manufacturers had a basement budget crossmember kit that uses stock A-arms.

[greenmtnboy]

Originally Posted by mikentosh

I’ve got mine currently sitting at a static 6.5”/7.5” drop height. Though I don’t daily drive it, I would have zero concerns doing that, as I get no scraping/rubbing even on rough roads. The only concern is getting high centered on steep angle driveway exits, or super tall speed bumps. I feel this is the lowest you can go without cutting the bed floor for clearance, but it took a lot of work to get here...front drop member, rear 4 link, shaving all the low hanging brackets on the frame, modified inner fenders...

Oh and this is with 295/50 15s on the front and back, which are only 26.4” diameter...not helping the ground clearance situation

Your work paid off! Badass Truck.

[fannin]

I daily my Suburban on a 5/5 drop, but it's a Qa1 Coilover conversion in the front with CPP Modular Spindles, the rear is a flip kit with new 1 ton springs with an additional inch or arch. No notch yet, but it's on order. Recently added Slosh Tubz Mild and have no rubbing with 275/40/20's in the front.

[kitsbeach]

Originally Posted by fannin

I daily my Suburban on a 5/5 drop, but it's a Qa1 Coilover conversion in the front with CPP Modular Spindles, the rear is a flip kit with new 1 ton springs with an additional inch or arch. No notch yet, but it's on order. Recently added Slosh Tubz Mild and have no rubbing with 275/40/20's in the front.

Sits nice

[SCOTI]

Originally Posted by fannin

I daily my Suburban on a 5/5 drop, but it's a Qa1 Coilover conversion in the front with CPP Modular Spindles, the rear is a flip kit with new 1 ton springs with an additional inch or arch. No notch yet, but it's on order. Recently added Slosh Tubz Mild and have no rubbing with 275/40/20's in the front.

20x8.5's & 20x10's?

[fannin]

Originally Posted by SCOTI

20x8.5's & 20x10's?

Yes 5.5" Backspacing on both.

315/35/20's in the rear.

[SCOTI]

Originally Posted by fannin

Yes 5.5" Backspacing on both.

315/35/20's in the rear.

The 275mm width looks decent on the 8.5" wheel (better than what I would have thought). The tire/wheel sizes compliment each other well.