Spindle help please

[Thealien]

I purchased the QA1 front and rear suspension for my Blazer build.

I plan on using the Willwood spindles and brakes eventually. The Blazer is going in for body work and paint sometime next year and I do not want new wheels installed during the body work and the stock wheels will not clear the Willwood brakes.

The QA1 front suspension comes with the 1973 and up ball joints and will not work with my stock spindles (and I don't have a reamer).

What spindle could I use that would work with my factory disc brakes and fit the QA1 control arms? If possible I would like a 2-2 1/2" drop spindle so it will match the Willwood spindle I will eventually go with.

I am OK with used if anyone has anything.

Thanks
Mark

[cwcarpenter98]

Look for the 73-87 spindles. You'll need the spindles with the 1 and 1/4" rotors to work with your stock stuff

[lolife99]

CPP sells a modular spindle that works with factory size disc brakes with a bolt on caliper bracket.
But why do it twice?
Does it need brakes to be in the body shop?
Install the wilwood stuff without the front rotor or caliper.
Bolt the wheel to the hub or just leave the caliper off.

Is the qa1 stuff going on before bodywork? What’s the big picture plan?
Multiple rounds of primer will kill a detailed frame unless your body guy wants to tape everything off every time. Not many are that energetic.
Plus you will pay labor for that.

[raic65]

If you are doing this just "to get by" before the truck will be painted, can you swap your ball joints to the QA1 control arms?

[Thealien]

Originally Posted by raic65

If you are doing this just "to get by" before the truck will be painted, can you swap your ball joints to the QA1 control arms?

I reached out to them and the ball joints are a proprietary rebuildable and they do not offer a ball joint compatible with my 1972 spindles. I could have my spindles reamed to 10 degrees. I am looking into that now.

[Thealien]

Originally Posted by lolife99

CPP sells a modular spindle that works with factory size disc brakes with a bolt on caliper bracket.
But why do it twice?
Does it need brakes to be in the body shop?
Install the wilwood stuff without the front rotor or caliper.
Bolt the wheel to the hub or just leave the caliper off.

Is the qa1 stuff going on before bodywork? What’s the big picture plan?
Multiple rounds of primer will kill a detailed frame unless you body guy want to tape everything off every time. Not many are that energetic.
Plus you will pay labor for that.

Body guy/painter is a true craftsman and will deal with the frame and could and would deal with wheels.

Part of the issue is the guy doing the engine and suspension has a small window for working on my Blazer and everything has been back ordered and delayed. I have everything delivered now except for the Dakota Digital gauges but it will run and drive without if I have to. Even Willwood brakes aren't shipping until 1/11. I don't want to order wheels without measuring after the brake installation. Not enough time with all the delayed shipping?

[Damien]

Originally Posted by Thealien

I reached out to them and the ball joints are a proprietary rebuildable and they do not offer a ball joint compatible with my 1972 spindles. I could have my spindles reamed to 10 degrees. I am looking into that now.

If you have a 71-72 Blazer, the lower ball joints are the same as the 73-87 C10. If you have a 69-70 Blazer the ball joint studs can be changed in the QA1 arms to 7 degree studs p/n 9029-201 upper and p/n 9029-217 lower. You will need tool kit p/n 1891-106 to change the studs. When you put the Wildwood spindles on just swap the original studs back in.

[Thealien]

Originally Posted by Damien

If you have a 71-72 Blazer, the lower ball joints are the same as the 73-87 C10. If you have a 69-70 Blazer the ball joint studs can be changed in the QA1 arms to 7 degree studs p/n 9029-201 upper and p/n 9029-217 lower. You will need tool kit p/n 1891-106 to change the studs. When you put the Wildwood spindles on just swap the original studs back in.

Thank you very much for that information. I ended up going with the wilwood Pro spindles and just finishing it correctly.

It's interesting you say that the studs could be changed out to the earlier style. when I contacted qa1 they said they do not offer a ball joint or stud for this application?

[Damien]

Someone must have had an off day. I know a couple guys that have used these studs.

[Thealien]

Originally Posted by Damien

Someone must have had an off day. I know a couple guys that have used these studs.

I looked up that part number and it said it was 1⁄2" longer than normal.It didn't say anything about the taper being the 7 ° earlier taper as opposed to the 10 ° later taper?

They did say I could ream my original spindle to the 10° and I was going to do that but I decided just to put the brakes on.

[Damien]

The 1/2" longer upper for the '63-'70 upper ends up being about .150" longer than the standard length '73-'87 upper stud. The longer stud is needed or the upper ball joint housing gets very close to the spindle and may not allow the suspension to articulate.

I'm glad you got the truck back rolling.

[SCOTI]

I don't understand the "proprietary rebuildable" part being spec'd vs. a common/easily accessible part. Businesses shut down for all kinds of reasons; even good ones.

I want to be able to walk into a parts house years later & buy something over the counter for a known app w/o concern. I was looking into a spindle alternative for a G-body & ran across this issue.... I decided to go w/a different option that used a standardized part that I know multiple manufacturers supply & are available over the counter if necessary.

But... I'm weird like that.