1964 C10 fleet side swb

[Justin71105]

Well the new brake rod lasted a few pumps after bleeding and that 5/16 rod bent at the round section that goes over the stud in arm. So I went back and cut the 5/16 rod off and went with 3/8 rod with a spacer between the adjustable coupler and the round section.

Pumped on these very hard with lines closed and no bending or movement at all.

I pressed out the stud for the loop on the booster rod and pressed it in my stock pedal. So using it with a spacer instead of brake switch on those models and a dorman clip to hold it all on.

I got a template of 16 ga steel plate made for the gas pedal to mount on outside of firewall. Plan is once I get pedal exactly where I want it to weld nuts on this and weld the plate to the firewall so it cant move if I need to take pedal out.

Save that for another day, its cold and after 2.5 days of jacking with this brake pedal I am beat.

Drive shaft is finished and I will pick it up Wed and try to get gas pedal mounted.

Get shims installed in rear and measure rear end angle and raise transmission to match, and then I will install drive shaft and measure that angle to get my operating angles and see if I will need to get a high humps trans cover....hoping I will not need to do this.

[SCOTI]

Originally Posted by Justin71105

Well the new brake rod lasted a few pumps after bleeding and that 5/16 rod bent at the round section that goes over the stud in arm. So I went back and cut the 5/16 rod off and went with 3/8 rod with a spacer between the adjustable coupler and the round section.

Pumped on these very hard with lines closed and no bending or movement at all.

I pressed out the stud for the loop on the booster rod and pressed it in my stock pedal. So using it with a spacer instead of brake switch on those models and a dorman clip to hold it all on.

I got a template of 16 ga steel plate made for the gas pedal to mount on outside of firewall. Plan is once I get pedal exactly where I want it to weld nuts on this and weld the plate to the firewall so it cant move if I need to take pedal out.

Save that for another day, its cold and after 2.5 days of jacking with this brake pedal I am beat.
.

I would set-up the under dash brake pieces to be a 2-part 'modular' installation: parts contained under the dash connected to parts retained outside the firewall.

This allows for easy replacement of the brake booster for future service vs having to revisit fab work to make the set-up work. Is this how you ended up?

[Justin71105]

Originally Posted by SCOTI

I would set-up the under dash brake pieces to be a 2-part 'modular' installation: parts contained under the dash connected to parts retained outside the firewall.

This allows for easy replacement of the brake booster for future service vs having to revisit fab work to make the set-up work. Is this how you ended up?

Yea to make a new booster work all I would need to do is cut off the ring, place the nub into the coupler end and then just adjust the coupler on the pedal side to make a tighter fit on the booster rod and tighten down my lock nuts.

Hard to make it work using the ring on the booster, it became a pivot point and would not let me push rod in straight.

[SCOTI]

Originally Posted by Justin71105

Yea to make a new booster work all I would need to do is cut off the ring, place the nub into the coupler end and then just adjust the coupler on the pedal side to make a tighter fit on the booster rod and tighten down my lock nuts.

Hard to make it work using the ring on the booster, it became a pivot point and would not let me push rod in straight.

What is the booster spec'd for?

[Justin71105]

Originally Posted by SCOTI

What is the booster spec'd for?

88-98 C1500 using Cpt Fabs bracket, the rod is too short to meet up with pedal like it needs to.

[SCOTI]

Originally Posted by Justin71105

88-98 C1500 using Cpt Fabs bracket, the rod is too short to meet up with pedal like it needs to.

Gotcha. Just curious to know what booster to avoid (because of the ring issue).

[Justin71105]

Originally Posted by SCOTI

Gotcha. Just curious to know what booster to avoid (because of the ring issue).

If I ever have to change my booster I'm going to take that bracket off put it against the firewall and see if that gives me the right length. I think the bracket is what is giving me the space between the ring and the brake pedal.

Would just need to drill holes in the firewall and mount directly to it but now that I've already done brake lines and all the other stuff I'm not jacking with it any more.