03-14-2021, 09:23 PM | #26 |
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Re: Ready to go LS
Those lines are an oil cooler. You don't need them, you can get a factory block off to remove the lines. You cannot just put a plate over it though since oil needs to flow through it.
If you bought an aftermarket harness then you don't need any of the original harness but you will need the TAC to pedal harness, but that is a separate small harness. Also worth mentioning, if you are running a 4l80e trans, you will need to do a segment swap on the trans in the tune since Escalades have 4l60/65s which won't work with the 80e, just something to be aware of when having your PCM tuned.
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My '72 short bed build. http://www.ls1tech.com/forums/conver...6-0-4l80e.html 5.3 swap into my RUSTY '71 C10 http://ls1tech.com/forums/conversion...71-c-10-a.html |
03-14-2021, 09:28 PM | #27 |
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Re: Ready to go LS
Dont have a clue on the auto trans wiring...all mine are manuals..
But on the engine , yes ...everything that will unplug, just unplug it.. The aftermarket harness plugs right into all the connections Keep the harness from the pedal to the module.. if it came with the harness, you could hang onto it till your done..just in case..but if your going aftermarket, it wont be needed... I've never been able to, but some people have decent luck selling factory harnesses for a few bucks.. Most just get rid of the oil cooler.. (Well, Eric beat me to it while I was slow typing...haha)
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03-14-2021, 11:45 PM | #28 |
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Re: Ready to go LS
Thanks guys, this info really helps. I think I’ll go with removing oil lines. Does after market harness plug into factory gas pedal module?
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1955 Chevy, 2 dr post, my first car 1969 Chevy C20 Suburban, 6.0 LS w/4L80 2001 Silverado Z71, 5.3 extended cab |
03-15-2021, 12:27 AM | #29 |
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Re: Ready to go LS
Yes, but they almost never come with the harness between the TAC and pedal.
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My '72 short bed build. http://www.ls1tech.com/forums/conver...6-0-4l80e.html 5.3 swap into my RUSTY '71 C10 http://ls1tech.com/forums/conversion...71-c-10-a.html |
03-15-2021, 04:38 PM | #30 |
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Re: Ready to go LS
If you are deleting the oil cooler and need to buy a new cover buy the aftermarket type that is drilled and tapped for your oil pressure sender.
Depending on what trans was behind the 6.0 you may need a different flex plate with a spacer. I'm not about this so check over on LS1tech. They have a sticky about flex plates and what fits what. |
03-15-2021, 04:50 PM | #31 |
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Re: Ready to go LS
Couple of other things come to mind.
When you get to the point of plugging in the harness make sure you plug in the crank sensor before you bolt on the starter and exhaust manifold. Double check your 12 volt feed to the ECM. You will need 12 volt constant and 12 volt in start and run. The feed wire to the alternator needs to be fairly large. I run a 6 gauge wire from the starter stud to the stud on the alternator. |
03-16-2021, 09:56 PM | #32 |
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Re: Ready to go LS
Thanks, I left the starter off when I found sensor behind it.
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1955 Chevy, 2 dr post, my first car 1969 Chevy C20 Suburban, 6.0 LS w/4L80 2001 Silverado Z71, 5.3 extended cab |
03-17-2021, 03:25 PM | #33 |
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Re: Ready to go LS
What does the Escalade pedal look like? plastic or metal arm? Adjustable pedal?
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03-18-2021, 12:53 PM | #34 |
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Re: Ready to go LS
Plastic, not sure if adjustable. I’ll make a metal stand-off to attach to firewall to hold it.
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1955 Chevy, 2 dr post, my first car 1969 Chevy C20 Suburban, 6.0 LS w/4L80 2001 Silverado Z71, 5.3 extended cab |
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