5.7 LS1 into a 66

[Joemomma1]

Creating this to document my swap so others may learn from it. My approach was to keep costs down by using parts found over the counter or at the wrecking yard. I have found that there is no need to spend tons of money on the aftermarket or replace perfectly functioning systems. The donor vehicle was an f body 2000 Camaro SS w/ a 4L60E. At the time of this posting, the truck is running and driving but haven't logged any highway miles to fully stretch its legs and expose problems. Will update as I can.

Brackets and mounts are from a 73-87 3/4 ton and above Chevy 2 wheel drive truck. These frame brackets are not as tall as the 1/2 ton versions and will not require a spacer for this frame. After a comparison, these seem to be the inspiration for the early classic enterprises version. I used the rear most holes as the point of reference at the frame and crossmember. This is the stock 66 crossmember. The frame did have to be notched about 3/8" - 1/2" on each side so the brackets would sit flush. This shouldn't hurt anything as the later frames are already sectioned here to accommodate big blocks. Sliding type adapters were about $50 from amazon . No link or specifics as these seem to be the same sold by many other sellers or on ebay. Clamshell rubber mounts were $7 a piece. Note that there are only 3 bolts holding the mount to the frame brackets as I believe the orientation can change depending on the application.

[gmc684x4]

very nice thank you for the info

[Joemomma1]

This setup left little room for adjustment to the rear. Maybe 1/4"-1/2" more to the rear. Allowed at least 1"-1 1/2" to the front. With the location of the coil packs, I couldn't move it much further anyway. With the engine location I was able to maintain the factory location of the transmission crossmember and keep my single piece aluminum driveshaft. Low mount alternator fit without a problem and left plenty of clearance. Driver side shows the stock f body exhaust manifold. F body manifolds fit with no modifications needed to the frame. Passenger side shows a Camaro LS3 manifold. I chose the LS3 manifolds due to not needing block off plates for the egr and the two bolt collectors. Picked them up for $100. This expense was unnecessary but didn't want to pass them up.

[Joemomma1]

The stock plastic power steering pump pulley was damaged and replaced with dorman 300-202 which is metal. I tried to modify the stock pressure hose with the use of compression fittings but air was getting sucked in somewhere so I just replaced the whole thing. Metric to adapters were required to keep my gear box. Russel 648060, -6 AN, 16mm x 1.5 O-ring was used at the pump and Russel 648050, 6 To 11/16"-18 Inverted Flare at the gear box. Had a local shop make the hose with two -6AN 90 degree turned to opposite directions. Retained the old return line. $40 for the hose.

[Joemomma1]

A local shop modified a stock fuel line from a 5.3 gm truck to fit here. I wanted to use the quick connect with nylon fuel lines rather than AN. Terminated w/ a 90 degree at the fuel rail and the male gm quick connect at the frame. Fuel filter is from a 1997 corvette as that filter has quick connects at both ends and includes the mounting bracket. Modified the Boyd welding carb tank to accept the LS1 f body fuel pump module. The module hanger/mount/ring is from efihardware.com and needed to be welded on. This module has the fuel pressure regulator built in and allowed for enough compression to stay fairly low profile. This module also keeps the pump submerged in fuel with its design and would work if the tank wasn't baffled. Last photo is not mine and was pulled from the Chevelle forum but is what I copied to make the fittings without the tool.


https://www.chevelles.com/threads/fa...-cheap.941281/

[joesscamaro]

Keep it coming, haha. I’m doing the exact same set up in my ‘65. I had to mount my engine perches in the forward holes though. Not sure why, but it looks like you have a lot more room than I do. I’m using the dirty dingo adjustable mounts.

[Joemomma1]

An aftermarket stand alone harness is 100% absolutely not necessary for a swap and won’t do it again. At the time, I hadn’t dealt with fuel injection so I paid for the convenience of not having to mess with wiring and went with BP. Ran it down the transmission and through the hump. Plenty of length to mount the computer and fuse box under the passenger seat. Used an S10 computer mount.

[Joemomma1]

Kept the stock 4 core radiator and used speedway LS swap hose adapter w/ steam port. The thermostat housing is some generic swivel from amazon. Thermostat is Mr. gasket 6368 180 degree. Fit well with no leaks. Fan is a 16" Volvo with Volvo relay.

This setup cools well and likes to sit around 187 degrees. Fan speed 1 is on at 195 and off at 185. Speed 2 is on at 215 and off at 205. The fan does not come on often but when it does, it has a problem turning off as it wont easily get back to 185. A tune will correct this but something to keep in mind. From what I'm gathering, its due to running the 180 degree thermostat instead of the stock 187.

Used a 5 wire truck maf instead of the stock 3 wire. The 5 wire has a notch so I cut under the clamp of that end from the stock intake tube. Used it as a reducer in the spectre 9781 4" elbow. Intake tube is spectre 97490. Filter is k&n RG-1001RD