Door Hinge: Friction Pad / Check Link Solution?

[Getter-Done]

I have questions below


I have been searching the Forum and found some
old threads on this subject.
If there was some new threads I missed them


So I thought I would start this one.

If you know of one please add the link to help others in the future


#1 =There is this Reproduction Kit in the link below.

Link: https://www.classicparts.com/1967-72...ctinfo/18-432/





#2 NOS friction pads = hard to find

Borrowed picture from member that I have purchased many parts from. Thanks




Question #1 -
Is the Kit a decent replacement?

Question #2 -
Has anyone found a comparably material to make these out of?
I prefer not to mess with asbestous
One member on here used Nyltron.

His update was:
{The Nylatron sheet that I used in the hinges for friction pads didn’t perform as good as I wanted them to.}


Question #3:
What have you used as a successful replacement if they are missing ?

Thanks
















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[Steeveedee]

I forget where I bought the kit, but I have yet to get the pin out of the hinge. Guess I'll spray some more penetrating oil on it and have at it again. They are the nylon(?) pads. Only the driver's door needs them.

[Getter-Done]

Originally Posted by Steeveedee

I forget where I bought the kit, but I have yet to get the pin out of the hinge. Guess I'll spray some more penetrating oil on it and have at it again. They are the nylon(?) pads. Only the driver's door needs them.

Thanks
From the picture ,I thought they might be nylon.
If so I can make some/ If they work okay?

About that pin

I have had some that come out okay and one that is still soaking









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[Stocker]

From a 9 year old thread:

Originally Posted by JimKshortstep4x4

I have repaired a lot of the door stops with good results. I use brake pads as a material to make the pads out of and then glue the pads in with 3M Trim Adhesive.
The pads last a very long time and I have not worn any out yet after years of use.

Jim

[Steeveedee]

Originally Posted by Getter-Done

Thanks
From the picture ,I thought they might be nylon.
If so I can make some/ If they work okay?

About that pin

I have had some that come out okay and one that is still soaking








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So, I went out to take another try at the pin, and the face of my ball peen hammer is so beat up that I got a slice from a section that is peeling off. Time for a new hammer, I guess. I've probably had it over 50 years. I said the heck with it and went back in the house.

[Stocker]

Originally Posted by Steeveedee

I have yet to get the pin out of the hinge. Guess I'll spray some more penetrating oil on it and have at it again.

I have to ask, sorry -- are you able to drive the pin part of the way out, then it won't move any more? If so, I fought that battle a few years ago. Here's what I found:

The hinge has a 1/4" diameter hole top & bottom, but the roll pin is 3/16". If you try to drive the pin out with a 1/4" drift, you'll be stopped by the 3/16" section at the center of the hinge.
A smaller drift, 3/16" or less, will drive the pin out. HTH, good luck!

[Getter-Done]

Originally Posted by Stocker

From a 9 year old thread:

Thanks
This is an option.
I just wonder how a person could get it to size,
Without breathing or dealing with the asbestos or nasty stuff.









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[Getter-Done]

Originally Posted by Steeveedee

So, I went out to take another try at the pin, and the face of my ball peen hammer is so beat up that I got a slice from a section that is peeling off. Time for a new hammer, I guess. I've probably had it over 50 years. I said the heck with it and went back in the house.

As Stocker stated
That pin that holds the check link arms is 3/16.

I read where another member replaced these with 1/4 "
after he got them out.










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[Stocker]

Originally Posted by Getter-Done

As Stocker stated
That pin that holds the check link arms is 3/16.

I read where another member replaced these with 1/4 "
after he got them out.

That would be Bruce88, back in 2009. Post #120
http://67-72chevytrucks.com/vboard/s...=318544&page=5

[Getter-Done]

Originally Posted by Stocker

That would be Bruce88, back in 2009. Post #120
http://67-72chevytrucks.com/vboard/s...=318544&page=5

Yes
That build thread is Over the Top

He has not logged in in Years.











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[cj847]

I used a set like these. I think it is nylon. Worked great. I think mine from classic industries but they looked identical.

https://www.ecklers.com/1967-1971-ch...oaAh7mEALw_wcB

[Getter-Done]

Originally Posted by cj847

I used a set like these. I think it is nylon. Worked great. I think mine from classic industries but they looked identical.

https://www.ecklers.com/1967-1971-ch...oaAh7mEALw_wcB

cj847

That's good info.

I may give the Nylon a shot.

Thanks









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[Steeveedee]

Originally Posted by Stocker

I have to ask, sorry -- are you able to drive the pin part of the way out, then it won't move any more? If so, I fought that battle a few years ago. Here's what I found:

The hinge has a 1/4" diameter hole top & bottom, but the roll pin is 3/16". If you try to drive the pin out with a 1/4" drift, you'll be stopped by the 3/16" section at the center of the hinge.
A smaller drift, 3/16" or less, will drive the pin out. HTH, good luck!

It didn't even move, though I was using my 2 pound ball-peen hammer- the one above that I noted cut my finger, and a 3/16" punch. Much to my embarrassment, when trying to drill that pin out when it wouldn't give, the bit went off-center, so I stopped. I'm thinking that I can just grind the "flat" face of the hammer back about 1/8" and put a chamfer back on it. I've used the handle on that hammer to drive in hundreds of pistons on rebuilds. Probably should be embarrassed about using the handle like that, too! Maybe I'll just buy another hinge. :shrug:

[Accelo]

One doesn't have to remove the pin or the link to replace the pads.
I have attempted to get the pin out many times with no luck.
If you pull the hinge pin you can drive the link out between the pads.
Typically the hinge pin has to come out to replace the bushings anyway.

Sometimes they come apart easy, sometimes hard. One picture of a pin I had to drill out. If the pin is rusted in soild you can bend the hinge ears if you use a press. Sometimes an air hammer can be used effectively.
I like to powder coat them when I am done.
Rick

[Getter-Done]

Okay

Here is what I have found
I purchased some big Sheet material and machined it to size






I still have to machine the notches in the ends


It has Copper emebeded in it.





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[Stocker]

Originally Posted by Getter-Done

Okay

Here is what I have found
I purchased some big Sheet material and machined it to size


Attachment 2096075

Attachment 2096076

I still have to machine the notches in the ends
Attachment 2096077

It has Copper emebeded in it.

If they work well, you could probably make several and offer them on the parts board. If they're not too much trouble to make. Could help recoup some of your material cost.

[Getter-Done]

Originally Posted by Stocker

If they work well, you could probably make several and offer them on the parts board. If they're not too much trouble to make. Could help recoup some of your material cost.

I have a Friend that lives close that could test these out.

Time will tell











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