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Old 04-22-2021, 11:31 AM   #1
roll_the_dice
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Re: Starting 1966 Factory Short Bed Build, Bagged, 383 Stroker and Muncie M20 4-Speed

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Originally Posted by 88Stanger View Post
Ok Gentlemen, I was able to sell the Harley to a close friend. He got a good deal and is happy, i am happy that it has a good home and well i have new room in my garage now.

so, with that said, i am toying with getting a different EFI system, the MSD Atomic 2. I really like this look of it, function is very close to the Holly setup, MSD is owned by Holly, i have all MSD ignition stuff so i would like to stick with the same manufacture.

Thoughts?
Congrats on selling the Harley!

I looked at the Atomic 2 along with the Sniper when I was deciding what EFI to replace the FiTech. Since they are both owned by Holley, I was talking to my Holley customer service rep about the differences between the Sniper and Atomic 2. He said they tune the same, the only difference is the Atomic 2 has a fuel transducer which is a good thing and the Atomic 2 has to run a separate fuel regulator since it is not built into the system. The Sniper has a fuel regulator but not the transducer...I do like the fact you can get fuel pressure readings on the handheld of the Atomic 2. The only reason I went with the Sniper over the Atomic 2 was my fuel lines were already setup for a system with built in fuel regulator...so it was easier I do like the look of the Atomic 2. The handheld looks identical to the Sniper as well...I don't think you can go wrong with either choice.
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Old 04-24-2021, 10:09 AM   #2
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Re: Starting 1966 Factory Short Bed Build, Bagged, 383 Stroker and Muncie M20 4-Speed

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Originally Posted by roll_the_dice View Post
Congrats on selling the Harley!

I looked at the Atomic 2 along with the Sniper when I was deciding what EFI to replace the FiTech. Since they are both owned by Holley, I was talking to my Holley customer service rep about the differences between the Sniper and Atomic 2. He said they tune the same, the only difference is the Atomic 2 has a fuel transducer which is a good thing and the Atomic 2 has to run a separate fuel regulator since it is not built into the system. The Sniper has a fuel regulator but not the transducer...I do like the fact you can get fuel pressure readings on the handheld of the Atomic 2. The only reason I went with the Sniper over the Atomic 2 was my fuel lines were already setup for a system with built in fuel regulator...so it was easier I do like the look of the Atomic 2. The handheld looks identical to the Sniper as well...I don't think you can go wrong with either choice.
I was hoping you had so great info and you did not disappoint!! thank you for the info!! i really appreciate it. since my system is not yet in and setup, i want to go with the atomic 2 to match all my other MSD stuff.
Thanks again...
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Old 04-24-2021, 10:16 AM   #3
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Re: Starting 1966 Factory Short Bed Build, Bagged, 383 Stroker and Muncie M20 4-Speed

so, I am now doing the final fit for the doors before I seal the cab... what a pain in the butt!!! brand new re-pop doors... i know they never fit as shown and yep.... they do not.. lol oh well that is why they make a grinder and welder... lol
Any hints are welcome!! getting doors aligned properly
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Old 04-24-2021, 05:35 PM   #4
roll_the_dice
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Re: Starting 1966 Factory Short Bed Build, Bagged, 383 Stroker and Muncie M20 4-Speed

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Originally Posted by 88Stanger View Post
I was hoping you had so great info and you did not disappoint!! thank you for the info!! i really appreciate it. since my system is not yet in and setup, i want to go with the atomic 2 to match all my other MSD stuff.
Thanks again...
Glad I could help! My misery with Fitech should benefit someone LOL
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Old 04-26-2021, 02:30 PM   #5
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Re: Starting 1966 Factory Short Bed Build, Bagged, 383 Stroker and Muncie M20 4-Speed

Ok, so i found out something... when you install lower door replacement panels on the cab, it is a good idea to test fit the doors before final weld up. Take it from me, this is very valuable to do, I am finding out the hard way. Just because you install the replacement panel in the same exact place, at the same "height" as original.... ya do not count on that. Do a test fit!
I tried and tried to get the doors to fit and nothing was working. Then after a few hours of saying a few words that required me to ask for some forgiveness... i discovered that if i just lower the rear panel i installed 3/16" of inch or so that "POOF" the door fits great! LOL So again, take it from me, do a test fit!! By the way, both are the same, one worse than the other.
With that said, The new re-pop doors look good, fit ok, but needed a bit of help on the door edge that is at the back of the Pass. door. It had a bit of a large gap that was easily fixed with 1/8" Tig Welding rod welded on and ground to fit, add a small amount to filler and looks great.
So now Pass. door is good and ready, now I need to work on the Drivers side. not near as off as the Pass. door, but just the adjustment to the lower door area on the cab replacement part and it will too be good.
So my "feels like never ending" cab repair, fix and get ready for sealer is still moving forward, but Damn WHAT A PAIN!! LOL Actually it has been a great learning experience. Hopefully someone can gain something good from my "learning experiences".
Pics coming....
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